I Need an Ark to Get Out of Kentucky

Yup, I knew I'd get weather like this at some point. Days of rain and thunderstorms. Inclement enough to not allow any article of clothing on my body to dry. I haven't put my dark sunglass lenses in my sunglasses in days. Soaked through and pushing up hills of Appalachia. Fun times. I had a productive, restful day off at Buckhorn Lake State Park and pedaled myself up the access hill out onto the road early yesterday morning to ride to Hindman. It was a shorter, easier day. Less hills, along a stream and less mileage. I was wet the entire ride due to a few downpours and the ride wasn't all that attractive. I can't believe all the garbage. Just like Wyoming's roads reminded me of a third world country, Kentucky's garbage alongside the road yesterday did the same. Most of the garbage was from drink and food containers and I didn't see a lot of garbage bags. So, I'm assuming it's just a cultural thing. It's just acceptable behavior to chuck things out of your window here. Even with the $500 fine threat (who gets caught littering anyway?) posted everywhere, I was disappointed by the amount of garbage. It's a system issue. People living in poverty or close to the poverty line need to pay for garbage service and they can't afford it. So where does it go? In the woods, along the road. Businesses don't have trash cans outside their doors here because people will dump their garbage in them. I wanted to jump in and swim in the river I was following yesterday a few times, but the garbage and old car tires in the water dissuaded me immediately. And, who wants to swim when you've been wet all day I ask myself. I got a flat tire on my trailer, first flat since western Kansas. Fixed it quickly and arrived in Hindman around 2:30 to sunshine for most of the afternoon and evening. I stayed at the Hindman Historic Cycling Hostel, run by David Smith. He greeted me with a sweet tea and pointed me in the direction of the tent. Cyclists have the option of putting up their own tent or staying in a large one on the property with three sections. I choose his tent, knowing it was going to rain all night and that way, my tent would stay dry. And less work on my part! David had snacks out and took my bag of laundry (lots of damp, smelly bike clothes... I'm sure he used to that!). We chatted a bit and waited for two others to show up. David prefers at least 24 hours notice since he prepares two amazing meals, dinner and breakfast for cyclists. Cost is $25 and it's a deal! Ellis and his son Stu showed up (it was cool because I've been following Stu's trip on Twitter and he caught up to me! Check out his blog at www.coledude.com) a couple hours later and we enjoyed nice dinner, as I said prepared by David with lots of conversation about the places we've seen and visited from Oregon to Hindman KY. David made chicken & dumplings, beans, cole slaw, heirloom tomato slice, corn, watermelon and banana split for dessert!

Stu, Ellis and I shared the large tent and man the rain came down! Luckily the tent stayed perfectly dry. We had breakfast at 7:30, a great spread of lots of fruit, cereal options, coffee cake and strawberry shortcake. I left David's about 8:45am and began my long 70 mile day. The first 22 miles were mellow and then hills. Some intense hills yesterday. In fact, yesterday I climbed the most ascended feet in one day on this trip, 5900 feet. The hills were steep and windy over the 70 mile day, but being drenched all day didn't help. I mean, still loved riding, but hard day. Challenging. And, the weirdest thing happened... While climbing a hill I saw a car stopped up a ways and when I passed it, I didn't see anybody. But, when I looked into the trees a little there was a man. Taking a poop. Yup, right there. Awesome. Something I really didn't want to see. Ever. Especially while climbing a 12% grade hill! When you're climbing that slowly due to the grade, the bugs surround you which isn't fun. The mosquitoes bite and the others drown in your sweat and you end the day covered in bugs. And I wonder why I've only had one marriage proposal on this trip... I actually got a phone call halfway up the hill (I've had no cell service consistently for days and then my phone was ringing!) and I took it for the break. In fact, I walked up part of the hill and chatted to a friend. For the first time, walked. Only a little bit, but it was steep and a nice break on the muscles.
See day stats here : http://connect.garmin.com/activity/356697910

In almost every community, I've passed Family Resource & Youth Service Center signs near schools. Their full acronym, FRYSC's (pronounced 'frisky' by my colleagues here in KY) are in 90% of schools here in KY and a great partner to school health work. Their primary goal is remove barriers to learning and the school-based centers are designed to provide resources and support families. I mention these because this great resource is another opportunity to educate, support and bring together the school and community together. Especially in areas that are high poverty and rural. I've heard my KY colleagues mention the work and partnership with FRYSC's and it was cool to pass so many of them and understand a little of what they are and do. I cycle and observe everything through the lens of what I do and who I am. And every person doing this has their lens(es) as they ride. A naturalist might identify plants or birds as they ride, a photographer might look to capture the ambience through a photo. We ride the same roads and experience similar things, however, who we are and what we are passionate about frames our ride.

I've made it to Virginia! The final state on the Adventure Cycling Association's Trans-Am Route. I will not be riding through to Yorktown unfortunately to complete the entire Trans-Am, but that's because my trip doesn't end here, as most Trans-Amer's do. I will pick up the Atlantic Coast Route and head north once I get to the Richmond Va area.

So, goodbye Kentucky! I won't miss the whistles/sexual harassment comments out of trucks or being chased by dogs (prevalent the past few days... although I hear VA has their share of unleashed dogs as well). I will miss the huge butterflies (hope they continue), people sitting on porches and waving at me, barn quilts and most importantly my good friends and colleagues here who hosted me, spent time with me, encouraged me, took me to dinner, loved and supported me. Hoping I'm back soon!

Moss is to Oregon as Kudzu is to Kentucky (see photo). It's taking over!!

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How Am I Doing This?

A lot of people I meet have asked me how I've been able to do this trip mid-career. Most people cycling the Trans-Am are right out of college or retired. In fact, in Bendavis MO, the owner of the only business in town (I think, at least), the gas station, told me his thoughts about who takes this cross country bike voyage: 
 -Foreigners
 -Retirees
 -Just out of college- to "find themselves"
 -Unemployed
 -Independently wealthy

He asked me which category I fit into and I laughed and said, "None, actually!" He looked at me skeptically thinking it was one of the two final categories. Since this trip has been on my 'bucket-list' for 23 years, I've seriously considered it something I can and will do. Making it happen is of course a different story. I've made some sacrifices, but I just set my mind to it. What's costly is not the trip itself, but the lack of income and savings not occurring while on the trip. This trip is costing less than taking a family of 4 from Oregon to Florida to Disney World for a week. So far, on food and lodging (my biggest expenses), I've spent under $1700 since June 5. Of course the gear and 40 hour bike maintenance course cost more. But overall, this trip isn't that expensive. It's the living costs and lack of income you have to take into consideration. I'm paying to store my car, I have health insurance that I pay for (I own my own business), I have business costs (sustaining a website, invoicing systems, etc) and I do pay rent for a place in Portland. Although, I did move out of my beautiful place, I have a room at a friends home with about 20% of my stuff in it. I also pay for a storage unit for the other 80% of my belongings. I took a big risk by not taking clients/work over the summer and doing this trip. I asked myself over and over, "Will I get work come fall? Will people think of me and hire me again?" But, you know, sometimes you have to say, "Screw it, it doesn't matter. I'm doing this no matter what. It's worth it. Even if I'm not contributing to my 401K for 6 months. Even if it takes awhile to find work afterwards. Even if I have to re-think my career. Even if I have to move. This dream, this journey is worth it."

Ten Commandments, posted everywhere along the road in Western Kentucky. 

Ten Commandments, posted everywhere along the road in Western Kentucky. 

It was recommended that I stay at Buckhorn Lake State Park. I didn't realize it would be about 8 miles more added to my day... up some intense hills, but I got here and it's worth it. I left Slade/Miguel's Campground yesterday morning and cycled the 66 miles to Buckhorn Lake. It was not an easy ride. I woke up to pouring rain, which is kind of nice in a tent, but packing up a wet tent isn't super fun. My gear stays dry, whether in the tent or in my trailer, so I'm never worried during a downpour at night. However, the day was incredibly hilly, humid and I was drenched the entire ride. I saw a lot of turtles & salamanders. I wasn't cold, it was warm out and at times, the rain was welcome. However, after 66 miles in wet clothing, your entire body starts to prune! And, cycling in feet sloshing around in your shoes isn't so fun. I do have shoe covers that are waterproof, but for some reason yesterday, I just decided the rain was welcome. Maybe a baptism of sorts? I am in the bible belt. Although, I haven't sinned recently. I mean, I may have thrown a banana peel (if you've been religiously, no pun intended, reading my blog, you remember my early comments about banana peels? I'm a believer now, again no pun intended!) into the trees alongside the road.  That's probably the worst sin I've committed. Well, Jamie and I did drink beer in a dry county. So, maybe that was it. But looking at the 10 Commandments posted all over Western KY (see photo), I seemed to have followed them quite well while riding through this area. I mean, I respected the Sabbath, although my Sabbath being Jewish is Friday sundown to Saturday... so I didn't do that. But, I did go to church last Sunday. I haven't taken the Lord's name in vain. I honored my mother and father- I sent them a postcard this week and thanked them for their love and support. I definitly did NOT commit adultery, kill anyone, steal, covet or bear false witness. But, I'll take the cleansing of the rain either way! 

In Booneville, I decided to call the Buckhorn Lake State Park and reserve a room at the lodge rather than camp. That way, I can dry off, have air conditioning and a good night's rest. I figured I've only spent $48 on lodging the entire time in Kentucky over the past week and a half. I arrived around 6pm, wet and tired. I was immediately taken by the beauty and remoteness of this area and upon checking in, I was spontaneous and booked another night. It might mean a couple of longer days ahead, but worth the layover. And, the access road in here will be quite a downhill and then climb out. The 8 miles, a lot of it uphill, will probably take me over an hour just to get back on the road. 

I showered, hung out my tent to dry over my balcony, sat and enjoyed the view and then ate dinner in the dining room at the lodge. I slept extremely well. I'm excited to have a day to catch up. I always have emails to respond to, postcards to write, receipts to enter into my spreadsheet, bike stats to enter into another spreadsheet, fundraising thank you notes, photos to download, blog to update. This is a full time job, no doubt. And, I plan on taking a short hike today. My forearms are sore today for the first time. I'm not sure if it's from darts or basketball the other day or climbing yesterday. One thing that's been quite a surprise to me is that I have NOT taken one pill while on this trip. Not one Advil, Aleve or Tylenol. Not one Nyquil, anti-histamine or allergy pill. I've had no headaches (not even my once a month headache during menstruation), no pain or severe soreness that has warranted it. I'm not playing a hero, I have all these pills with me. I just am amazed how healthy and free of pain I've been. I must be doing what I'm supposed to. Eating well, sleeping enough, drinking enough water, stretching, resting. I urge you to do the same. Be active. Eat nutrient-rich foods. Breathe. Meditate. Grieve. Heal. Rest. Enjoy loved ones. Laugh. Laugh some more.  Take care of something you have 100% control over- your mind and body. 

Some of yesterday's ride along a river. 

Some of yesterday's ride along a river. 

The rain brought these guys out on the road.

The rain brought these guys out on the road.

Dave, a cyclist I met from LA.

Dave, a cyclist I met from LA.

Sunset from my balcony. Incredibly peaceful with sounds of cicadas and crickets I assume

Sunset from my balcony. Incredibly peaceful with sounds of cicadas and crickets I assume

Being alone, I really can't do all these activities. But, a great place to bring a family!

Being alone, I really can't do all these activities. But, a great place to bring a family!

View from my balcony, other direction.

View from my balcony, other direction.

Finally, a Daisy in Kentucky

Andy, my warmshowers host!

Andy, my warmshowers host!

I rode from Harrodsburg to Berea in the late afternoon/early evening after saying goodbye to the Davis family. I arrived in the Folks Arts and Crafts Capital of Kentucky early evening and took a spin around the adorable city and through Berea College. Purchased a bourbon ball (a bite-sized chocolate treat with filling flavored with bourbon) and bourbon pecan fudge. My warm showers hosts, Andy and Page picked me up in town and we drove about 6 miles out to their home. They have two daughters (one in MS and one in HS) and 7 dogs! Andy and Page are up early, so they showed me what I needed for food and shower and went to bed early. The next morning, Andy made me eggs for breakfast and we chatted about school health, since he's worked in and around that area as well! Andy and I jumped on our bikes and we rode into town together. He showed me around his work building (Gear Up/Promising Neighborhoods at Berea College- he's a data person!) and pointed me in the right direction to head to Slade Kentucky, in Natural Bridge State Park near Red River Gorge. Thanks to Andy and Page for hosting me!!

I cycled 65 miles to Natural Bridge State Park and the ride wasn't only beautiful but got me mentally centered again on my trip after so much time off the bike and hanging with friends socially. That alone time helps me get back into what I'm doing and why I'm doing it. I thought a lot about how Kentucky for me, is associated with my friend and colleague Jamie Sparks. Most of the KY experiences I've had- Keeneland, Bourbon Trail, work training events have been with him. And, being someone from a very different place in the country, the south intimidated me a bit. I talked different, I had a very different upbringing and I always felt like a visitor in a foreign state. I fell in love with the state, the experiences and honestly, Jamie, however this trip gave me the opportunity to make this state my own. I've had my own adventures here and I feel confident and welcome to be here as a guest, an American versus a foreign visitor. I might still talk funny to them, but I've made Kentucky my own special place. I still love it here. There is something that draws me. The beauty, the people and the access to the outdoors.

Part of my steep hike in Natural Bridge State Park. Felt good on the quads after cycling 65 miles!

Part of my steep hike in Natural Bridge State Park. Felt good on the quads after cycling 65 miles!

I arrived at Natural Bridge State Park in time to take the Sky Lift (basically a ski lift) up to the top of a large hill to see the bridge. This area is picture- perfect and I wish I had a better camera lens to capture the scenery. I ended up hiking in the area and back down to the bottom of the Sky Lift where I had locked my bicycle. You know, why not put in 4-5 miles of hiking after a 65 mile bike ride?!?

Three rock climbers slept like this in their hammocks in campground- thought it was hilarious!

Three rock climbers slept like this in their hammocks in campground- thought it was hilarious!

Day ride- daisy behind ear!

Day ride- daisy behind ear!

I got to Miguel's... a Pizza Restaurant/Campground that hosts rock-climbers from all over the world.  I didn't hear a Kentucky accent, until Jamie showed up the next day! I set up camp, ate dinner (big salad and pizza, with my favorite topping- broccoli) and crashed super early. On Tuesday, I had a big breakfast at Miguel's and Jamie showed up. We planned to do a 30+ mile day ride/loop together and enjoy the Red River Gorge. It was dreamy to ride without hauling 80-90lbs! Within a couple of miles, I looked down and there to the right of me off the shoulder was a beautiful, lone daisy. Looking up at me shouting, "I'm here! Pick me!" I haven't seen any in Kentucky and being my favorite flower and feeling daisy- guidance and support in the west, it's been awhile. I picked the daisy and it stayed behind my ear the entire day. Serendipitous to see one while riding with someone I care about so much. We rode for about 4 hours, stopping to play darts, enjoy hot dogs and beer at Sky Bridge Station in Pine Ridge. We chatted most of the way riding, except for when I was killing it on the uphills and Jamie was... well, he was too! ;) We finished about 4 hours later after a gorgeous ride. Jamie and I put on our swimsuits and went to the nearby State Park pool at the Lodge and cooled off, even though the weather has been perfect- low 80's. We got back to Miguel's, showered, played some basketball (Jamie beat me at HORSE) and enjoyed more pizza and salad. I introduced Jamie to broccoli on pizza (we had chorizo on there too) and his comment was, "I think this is the best pizza I've ever had!" 

Darts! Yesterday included cycling, darts, swimming, basketball and eating, of course. 

Darts! Yesterday included cycling, darts, swimming, basketball and eating, of course. 

One thing I should mention about Jamie is that he's an amazing planner when it comes to trips. So, he brought a big Gatorade cooler (yes, like sports teams have and the same one he brought on our road trip a year and half ago to New Orleans from Nashville to see UK basketball win the 2012 National Championship!)  filled with Yuengling Beer, ice and his delicious homemade salsa I love. After eating pizza, we spent the rest of the evening chatting, telling stories, laughing, drinking some beer in the lawn chairs he brought and listening to music. At around 10:30pm, unfortunately his allergies kicked in, so he drove back home to Morehead (about an hour, and at that point sober, btw). It's always hard to know what to write, what to share, how personal to be, but I'll say this... when I'm with Jamie, I want time to slow down. And when he drove away, my heart sank, as it always does. And a car came by and I thought, 'maybe he came back?' but it drove on by. And yet again, I know it'll be months until I see him again. 

 

A lot of the ride was secluded and gorgeous. Get it? Red River Gorge was GORGEous.

A lot of the ride was secluded and gorgeous. Get it? Red River Gorge was GORGEous.

Lookout point.

Lookout point.

Suspension Bridge before swimming.

Suspension Bridge before swimming.

Our loop.

Our loop.

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What is it About Saying Goodbye?

It's hard to put into words all the emotions I'm feeling right now at the end of my weekend.  Let me try...
 •Loved
•Supported
•Empowered
•Rested
•Content
•Appreciative
•Happy
 

My goalie debut.

My goalie debut.

Todd and his daughter Alison.

Todd and his daughter Alison.

Friday night Todd, Jan, Noah and Ella had plans so I got to rest in their home and catch up on some things. Saturday morning, Todd cooked Noah and I omelets and the girls (Jan and Ella) were off to Lexington for clothes shopping for Kindergarten for Ella. Todd, Noah and I picked my bike up at Danville Bike and Footwear, a bike shop that hooked me up with a great tune-up and trued my trailer wheel, which somehow became a little wobbly! Noah and I played some soccer outside, Todd's other daughter Alison stopped by while Todd was practicing guitar and we left the house around 6 to meet up with many more of my school health colleagues for dinner- teachers, Alliance for a Healthier Generation staff, Department of Education and Department of Health staff. There were 16 of us in total, including spouses and kids. We went to Wallace Station in Versailles KY, suggested by Jamie (who wasn't able to join us), and it was a great suggestion. Live music, footballs and soccer balls in the field in back for the kids to run around, picnic tables outside and awesome hamburgers. My burger had bacon and bleu cheese on it. I collected 5 pickles from those not interested in MY favorite food and ate every last pickle on my plate! I felt loved, supported and energized as I shared stories of my trip and checked in with everybody. I was amazed how many people really follow my blog and refer to stories or experiences. This happens regularly, even with people that host me and I'm amazed that you all are engaged. I have to admit that writing is incredibly challenging for me. And, this blog has been the first time in my life that I've voluntarily written something so personal and willing to share. Ok, ok, I have performed in Mortified in Portland and Los Angeles... but that's different!

KY School Health REPRESENT!

KY School Health REPRESENT!

This morning, I choose to leave later and spend more time with Todd's family. We all went to church together. I really wanted to see Todd play guitar during the service, and, organized faith hasn't been a part of my trip. I mean, this journey has been incredibly spiritual, but I haven't attended any services. I'm Jewish, so haven't attended a church service in years. But, I enjoyed going and felt very welcome. In fact, the minister, even asked me, "I know this sounds weird, but doesn't your butt hurt?" Ok, I did NOT expect a Christian Kentucky minister to ask me that one. He was concerned the question offended me... he obviously doesn't know it would take a lot more to offend me and I loved his question. I just told him that believe it or not, your butt gets in shape and seat breaks in. So, no- it doesn't hurt! I had some quiet time in church (never thought I'd say that sentence) to reflect on my trip and continue to pray to the energy out there that I believe in, to keep me healthy and safe for the rest of my journey. I was able to appreciate my mental health, emotional health and physical health to allow me to do something so challenging. I was able to give thanks to those that have been part of my journey in any way. The people back in Oregon supporting me to those that have bought me meals, hosted me, texted me that they're proud of me, joined me to cycle, contacted me to tell me they religiously read my blog and so on. 

We got back from church and Jan made a delicious lunch so we all ate family-style. We have had many laughs this weekend, something I really appreciate. Ella said a prayer and when I gave thanks to the Davis family, I got choked up. I really loved staying there this weekend and feel part of yet another family that supports me. As I left the Davis family, gave my hugs and cycled away, I reflected on how I am the one pedaling, but there is no way I could do this trip without everyone who has been so generous and loving. Todd did text me tonight and sent me a video of Ella and Noah saying goodbye. Todd- I do expect a video of them singing my family's "Here we go again..." song! :)

Todd also told me his kids were pretty emotional when I left. I was too. So what is it? A human connection after only two days so deep that grief and loss is felt. I feel it too, almost daily on this trip. Somedays, I cycle away with tears streaming down my face. And, it's amazing.

Look where Noah put his Road to Rhode sticker?? On his bike! I think Ella put one on hers too later.

Look where Noah put his Road to Rhode sticker?? On his bike! I think Ella put one on hers too later.

Davis family photo! Todd, Jan, Ella and Noah

Davis family photo! Todd, Jan, Ella and Noah

Noah, Ella and I

Noah, Ella and I

Ella, giving me her pickle.

Ella, giving me her pickle.

The girls at Wallace Station!

The girls at Wallace Station!

Dancing to live music at Wallace Station with Carly and Ella!

Dancing to live music at Wallace Station with Carly and Ella!

Eating ice cream sandwiches... you know the other day was National Ice Cream Sandwich Day. I had two, since I missed National Ice Cream Sandwich Day.

Eating ice cream sandwiches... you know the other day was National Ice Cream Sandwich Day. I had two, since I missed National Ice Cream Sandwich Day.

Friends, friends and 3000 miles!!

Jennifer and I

Jennifer and I

I arrived in Elizabethtown a little later than anticipated due to losing an hour as a result of crossing over into my final timezone! I arrived at Larry and Jennifer's home in Radcliff, just north of Elizabethtown about 5pm. Jennifer is a retired teacher from Portland Public Schools and I haven't seen her in about eight years. Her husband, Larry is from Kentucky and so they moved back here eight years ago. I had an opportunity to visit with Larry, Jennifer and their adorable dog Axel before having dinner plans with another colleague and friend. 

Jamie, a colleague and one of my closest friends whom I met almost two years ago in Louisville at American School Health Association's conference happened to be doing a training in Elizabethtown the following day. In fact, his hotel was almost across the street from Jennifer's, so it was convenient for him to bring me to dinner. I haven't seen him since March, so our dinner conversation was super nerdy... around school health. We could check in about HECAT, PECAT, SHI, SHG, AFHK, ASHA, AAHPERD, KYCSH, KAHPERD, FRYSC, AHG, CSH, CSPAP, CDC... for hours. The acronyms go on and on. He persuaded me to come to hotel and fix his tires and tubes (I think he wanted to make sure I've been the one actually doing my bike maintenance!) and we went swimming (I'm a fish and always have a bathing suit with me, remember?) and he brought me back at 10:26, just in time, since Larry told Jamie my curfew was 10:30! ;)

That's my, 'REALLY JAMIE? DID I GET SUCKED INTO THIS?' face.

That's my, 'REALLY JAMIE? DID I GET SUCKED INTO THIS?' face.

Me, crashing the PECAT  and Alliance for a Healthier Generation/Healthy Schools Program Training!!

Me, crashing the PECAT  and Alliance for a Healthier Generation/Healthy Schools Program Training!!

I had more time to visit with Jennifer and Larry (and snuggle with Axel) in the morning before hopping on my bike at 9 and riding 9 miles to Jamie's training. Jamie was facilitating a training on Physical Education Curriculum Analysis Tool and CSPAP (Comprehensive School Physical Activity Programs) and Jacy Wooley, from the Alliance for a Healthier Generation (my charity!!) was facilitating a Healthy Schools Program workshop for Hardin County who are now on board with the Alliance starting this year! I couldn't NOT show up to this training and at least say hello. So, Jamie introduced me, told them some stories he loves to share about my trip and I got to answer questions and take a large group photo. I connected with Jacy for awhile and then I was on my way to Bardstown, bourbon capital of the WORLD. Not only bourbon capital of the world, but where I hit my 3000 mile mark! I arrived in Bardstown just as Jamie, who had finished his training at noon drove up and our friend/colleague Todd Davis was only 10 miles away. Todd is the PANT (Physical Activity, Nutrition, Tobacco) coordinator at the KY Dept of Ed (my counterpart when I was at the Dept of Ed in Oregon) and the three of us enjoyed an awesome lunch at Circa in Bardstown. I should mention, the weather here has been lovely. Like, Portland Oregon summertime weather. Warm, but not hot and not much humidity. We sat outside and the 3 of us enjoyed being together yet again! We all travel often for work and meet up all over the country quite regularly. Last time we were all together was Charlotte and I suspect we'll all be together in Myrtle Beach in October. 

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Todd left after lunch and Jamie had his bike with him so we got on bikes and cycled to Barton's Distillery. In the past couple of years, Jamie has taken me to many bourbon distilleries in Kentucky and I've officially completely the Kentucky Bourbon Trail. We took the tour, did a tasting (best part!) and cycled back to his car. Jamie left to go home for the weekend to Morehead and I cycled to my other colleague, Vicki's mother-in-law, Rita's home. Vicki works in public health in Kentucky, but works closely with the Dept of Education folks. Rita greeted me at the door and welcomed me into her lovely home. I had an opportunity to sit and visit with Rita, her daughter Penny and grandsons as they asked me question after question about my trip! Vicki came to pick me up and she and I went to a delicious dinner at Talbott Tavern. We had a great time checking in and I really appreciate Vicki coming to meet me for dinner and setting me up in Rita's home. I got back from dinner and basically crashed (so tired!) into a deep sleep. Rita offered me breakfast in the morning and Friday's ride was just perfect. I'm back on the ACA Trans-Am route and the roads were mostly isolated (not many cars) and rolling hills all day. Just perfect.

Holy cow! My bike, Jamie and Todd sitting for lunch... this means I actually made it from Oregon to Kentucky. This is amazing.

Holy cow! My bike, Jamie and Todd sitting for lunch... this means I actually made it from Oregon to Kentucky. This is amazing.

After so much time visiting with friends that I care about and love, it was nice to have some alone time on Friday. I'm an extravert, as I've said, but I cherish my alone time. It's so needed, even though I want to see everyone I love and care about all the time, while here. Friday's ride gave me the time to be 'back on' MY trip. Centered again. Although, one really nice break in the middle of the day was delightful. My colleague Barb Donica, whom I met probably ten years ago through Society of State Directors of Health and PE, brought a picnic lunch and met me at Lincoln Homestead State Park. We had a wonderful picnic (thanks Barb!), catching up on more school health acronyms (ha!) and said goodbye until ASHA in Myrtle Beach as well. 

I enjoyed the afternoon ride and arrived at Todd and Jan's (and Ella and Noah) home in Harrodsburg. I mentioned Todd above, but he's a really good friend and colleague and I was just so excited to meet his family. I hear so much about his wife Jan and their kids and I'm thrilled they were willing to host me. It means a lot to me.

Todd brought me to the local bike shop so my bike could have it's first professional 'tune-up' on the trip and I got back and hung out with the kids a bit.  

 

Jamie and I

Jamie and I

Lunch with Jamie and Todd in Circa in Bardstown.

Lunch with Jamie and Todd in Circa in Bardstown.

Barrels of Bourbon!

Barrels of Bourbon!

Bourbon warehouse

Bourbon warehouse

Cows taking a dig on my ride Friday.

Cows taking a dig on my ride Friday.

Typical rest stop for me. Friday was a Klondike bar and cold water, with a brand-name Climax. No joke.

Typical rest stop for me. Friday was a Klondike bar and cold water, with a brand-name Climax. No joke.

The road Friday- isolated and gorgeous. 

The road Friday- isolated and gorgeous. 

Barb Donica took this photo after our lovely picnic lunch! Thanks Barb!

Barb Donica took this photo after our lovely picnic lunch! Thanks Barb!

Todd and Jan's home in Harrodsburg.

Todd and Jan's home in Harrodsburg.

Owensboro- Elizabethtown

Danielle, Ava, Pat and Schley 

Danielle, Ava, Pat and Schley 

Schley and I- check out that awesome shirt! 

Schley and I- check out that awesome shirt! 

My ride from Morganfield to Owensboro was beautiful. The Kentucky I know and remember from the central part of KY I've visited in the past are typical here too. Plenty of Bar-BQ options, many small towns (although Kentucky is an urban metropolis compared to Kansas and Missouri!), corn fields, fences, horses and farms. Its rolling hills are fun and not too strenuous (yet!). I've slimmed my mileage down from 70-80 to 40-50 a day this week to stop and enjoy. I've met tons of amazing people already in my two days here. Although, I was pretty impressed I haven't had one whistle, one sexual harassment remark the entire trip and guess what? Three whistles from 3 different cars passing me. Still not ok... but I do stick out in my spandex and bicycle. Ohhhh, Kentucky.

I stayed in Owensboro, on the Ohio River with warmshowers.org host Danielle and her 5 year old adorable daughter Ava. Danielle's mom, Pat, lives across the street and when I pulled onto their street, three people were frantically waving me over! It was great to be greeted outside their home and within seconds I heard an accent that was not from Kentucky from both Pat and Danielle. What was it I heard? Could it be? A New York accent in Owensboro Kentucky? Yup! Originality from Merrick NY, and moved here around 2005 (work related). And, both Pat and Danielle are pretty serious cyclists! I showered up, did laundry, and we all sat for dinner an hour later. Their friend Schley came over to eat with us as well, another avid cyclist. He told us we talk so fast. I mean, get two original New Yorkers, a Nutmegger (CT) with a mom from Long Island (me) and we talk loud and fast. It's just the dynamic of who we are! There's a culture to it...but funny being in Kentucky experiencing it. I enjoyed kid-time with Ava and as always, crashed and slept very well. Pat brought me to Smothers Park, the new beautiful waterfront park. The city invested a lot to redesign the waterfront and it looks fabulous.

I looked at the weather forecast for the day and it said rain, most of the day and heavy at night near my destination, Falls of Rough State Park. So, before leaving Danielle and Ava's home, I checked www.warmshowers.org and found hosts close to there that got back to me within the hour. Beth and Garry would be hosting me that evening!

I'm not even sure how to fully explain the beautiful setting of Beth and Garry's home. They live on 60 acres and have custom built a fabulous home. They moved to KY from NJ, but have their property on the market to move to Omaha NE to be closer to their son and grandchildren. You can check out their property if you do a search on Facebook for Kentucky Home and Farm For Sale.

In January, I came to Kentucky to do work with the KY Department of Education's Coordinated School Health team (Todd, Steph and Jamie) and stayed through the weekend with Jamie to hang out in Lexington, see some more colleagues (Melissa from Alliance for a Healthier Generation, the organization I'm trying to raise $25,000 for), and just hang out. On Sunday, Jamie brought me to his hometown, Morehead, in Eastern KY to see the town and surrounding area (beautiful!) and meet his grandparents. While there, I noticed the barn quilts and asked about them. Jamie said it was something to do with tourism and quilts, but I didn't get much more out if him. Fast forward to Beth and  Garry's because Beth actually paints these barn quilts for her county with a group of people! And, she paints them on her own for friends and for sale. I got the full story from Beth on these beautiful art pieces and was surprised to hear they hang in a majority of states, but have only seen them here in Kentucky! For more information on these click here.
Beth and Garry's friend Jay was visiting from the Bay Area and the four of us enjoyed an evening filled with laughter, conversations, dog-snuggling (Nikki, Norm and Robin/Lorraine... I already miss you), and Garry's amazing culinary expertise... a five-star dinner! I stayed in their adorable cabin next to their gorgeous home and woke up to sounds of birds all around the property. Unfortunately it was cloudy, however, still a majestic setting. I got up early to take some photos of the property which includes not only the land, but fields for hay, 2 horses, 3 dogs, 10 laying chickens and a cat named Oscar, named for resembling The Grouch.


I left for Elizabethtown with a full stomach of 2 poached eggs on top of a heap of veggies, potatoes and leftover chicken from dinner the night prior, cooked of course, by Garry!

Typical fences you see all over Kentucky

Typical fences you see all over Kentucky

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Lunch spot between Danielle's and Beth and Gary's.

Lunch spot between Danielle's and Beth and Gary's.

Barn Quilt

Barn Quilt

Barn Quilt on Beth and Garry's barn, painted by Beth.

Barn Quilt on Beth and Garry's barn, painted by Beth.

Beth, Garry and I

Beth, Garry and I

My cabin at Beth and Garry's. And 2 of their 10 chickens.

My cabin at Beth and Garry's. And 2 of their 10 chickens.

Beth and Gary's home- FOR SALE! For more information, go to Facebook and type in 'Kentucky Home and Farm for Sale' and their page will pop up.

Beth and Gary's home- FOR SALE! For more information, go to Facebook and type in 'Kentucky Home and Farm for Sale' and their page will pop up.

Sorry Illinois. Helloooooooo Kentucky

I left Murphysboro Illinois this morning at 6:30 am and biked the ten miles to Carbondale. I ate breakfast at Denny's and loaded my favorite photos from my trip so far in my gallery. I decided in Carbondale to be rebellious today and go off route. For a few reasons. My rebellious route cut about 20 miles off my goal destination, which would have been about 100 miles today. It wasn't necessarily as pretty I suspect, however, it was flat for 60 of the 84 miles I biked. And, there was a wide shoulder. I took Route 13 east with the intention of taking Route 1 down to Cave-in-Rock IL. From there I WOULD have taken the ferry over to KY in the morning. I had a tailwind most of the day and flew through the 60 miles at an average of 16mph! Finally! And, the weather has been perfect, in the mid-70's, low 80's. No humidity. When I got to the Route 1 intersection, I saw a sign for the Ohio River, 9 miles ahead.

At this point, I need to interrupt this blogpost for an important sidetrack. I have in the past few years done a lot of work with the Coordinated School Health crew at the Kentucky Department of Education and Department of Health. I love my colleagues here (Vicki, Jamie, Steph and Todd) and have taken over a dozen trips to KY over the past couple of years, including to present at their Coordinated School Health Symposium in 2012, help the team with grant writing, deliver two Health Education Curriculum Analysis Tool (HECAT) training events and even complete the Bourbon Trail and other sightseeing (last two not on state or federal time, promise... over many weekends with close friend/colleague Jamie Sparks!). I've also worked with Gary English (we go way back... like when I was 19 at Ithaca College!) at Western Kentucky University to help the professors in the public health department map and align their curricula. Also, the organization I'm trying to raise $25,000 for, the Alliance for a Healthier Generation, has 3, soon to be 4 employees in Kentucky and they are doing great work (Jacy, Patty and Melissa)! There's also some other folks I know through the field of school health- Barb, Audra and Stacie. Because I have a good dozen or so colleagues here that mean the world to me (and who are doing amazing school health work, by the way), Kentucky was another milestone on this trip. A very important place for me to get to. Even though most of them live 200 miles from where I am right now in Western KY (except for Gary, in Bowling Green at WKU!), crossing the border meant a lot to me.

Crossing the Ohio River (Illinois/Kentucky border)

Crossing the Ohio River (Illinois/Kentucky border)

Ohio River

Ohio River

Ok, now we can return to the scheduled blogpost. Each day, my ride has been about the journey, not the destination. I meet plenty of other cyclists that get up at 5am to get to their destination by 1, as fast as they can. That's fine with me, but it's not my trip. I stop and talk to many people a day in towns I bike through, in restaurants I nourish my body in, at fruit stands and ice cream venues I eat in. But I have to admit, today, my bike all of a sudden had a mind of its own, saw Kentucky was 9 miles away straight ahead versus staying on the ACA Trans-Am and it wouldn't turn. The bike wanted IN to Kentucky. It was saying, "Take me to one of my favorite states!!" So, I had to go straight, hoping the bridge over the Ohio wasn't too dangerous for cyclists (it was fine, hardly any traffic). It was the most dramatic state crossing for me so far (see photos below)! Emotional even! The first home I saw had 4 horses. Predictable. And, within 4 miles of crossing into KY, a man and woman pulled over to make sure I was ok (just finished watering the regional flora) and after chatting a bit, they offered me a place at their farm. They are located another ten miles passed my new destination for the night, and 84 miles was enough for me today! Drivers were courteous and the rolling hills were mellow. The scenery was gorgeous- corn and soybean fields, silos, streams and plenty of green rolling hills! My stomach is happily content with food and a Dairy Queen peanut buster parfait right now. Tomorrow I'm going to stay off route because I have a warmshowers.org host in Owensboro. I'm looking forward to meeting more Kentuckians as I meander my way into Central Kentucky. I'm so proud of myself for making it to Kentucky. Even though UCONN is going to kick UK and Louisville's butts this basketball season. ;)

To see the dramatic Kentucky state border crossing, click on the photo below to scroll through all 6 photos. They are ridiculous and quite hilarious. Yes, Alison- another set the camera and run to pose for the photo!

Goodbye Missouri

Best kept secret state, just so you know. Oops, now it's not a secret. Missouri was a beautiful state with wonderful people. This past week was the one of my favorite weeks on the trip... because of the experiences and people. As I pushed my bicycle up the banked road from the ferry after it dropped me off on the Illinois side of the Mississippi, I looked back at the ferry carrying Jim and Maria, my incredibly generous hosts and now, friends. They took the quick ferry ride across with me and as it pulled away, I waved goodbye tearing up. I was emotional for many reasons. It's hard to get back on the bike and head east when you are loving a place and connecting so well with people you meet along the way. And, in my mind, the Mississippi River was always a milestone on my journey and I made it. Holy cow! I'm in Illinois today!

In March, my mom, Elin and Aunt Doris took a trip to Ecuador and met Maria and Jim on the tour. When my mom knew my route, she contacted them and lo and behold, they live 20 miles north of the Adventure Cycling Association's Trans-America route (which I'm on). Maria, having never met me, organized that canoe float trip I wrote about yesterday (she loves going, so I didn't have to twist her arm). After the epic float on the Current River, we drove with my gear in the back of the truck to her town (Sainte Genevieve) and attended a fun local concert. I spent yesterday morning in Station 2 Cafe catching up on emails and organizing things (including upcoming routes and places to stay) and catching up with a few people via phone. I walked back from the coffee shop to Maria and Jim's home and Bryan and Toby from the Sainte Genevieve Herald came over to interview me and take photos. Press! It was great since I'm at 56% of my fundraising goal and would love to continue to get the word out. I hope to inspire people to donate, move more, eat healthier and/or fulfill a lifelong dream. You know, nothing too difficult...

After the interview, I was fortunate enough to spend the afternoon with Maria on a walking tour of this quaint, historic town. Maria and Jim live in the historic district of Sainte Genevieve so everything is within walking distance. Ste. Gen is one of the oldest European settlements west of the Mississippi. We started at the Jacques Guibourd home, built in 1806. Ms. Thompson, our guide was fabulous! She spent over an hour on the tour and gave us many details about the people who lived in the home, its' construction and furniture displayed within the home (although not original to the home, era- appropriate). Since we spent so much time there, we only had a chance to peek into some of the other homes on the Historic Tour, however, it was worth getting so much history on the one house. Ste. Genevieve is know for a type of home built with vertical wooden posts, also called 'French Creole Colonial' in the late 1700's/early 1800's. They aren't called log cabins, even though they resemble log cabins since the logs are vertical rather than horizontal. I'll include some of the photos from our walking tour below. The oldest brick building west of the Mississippi is in Ste. Gen as is the oldest school. Many people have taken to restoring these buildings to preserve for others to enjoy and learn the history. We went down to the River so I could stick my foot in (see photo below) and that's when I decided to take the ferry across this morning.

After Maria's tour, we went to the Eagles Club, a membership-only bar for happy hour. It was great to meet more locals and their group of friends. After happy hour, we came home and Jim cooked his famous (and delicious) shrimp and pasta dinner. Dessert was homemade cake from the neighbor- yum! I was only at Maria and Jim's for two nights but over the course of this past week, friends and neighbors have brought them a berry pie, two pieces of cake, soup and I know Alice brought something else today, but I can't remember what. That's community, folks. That is the close-knit small town mentality that keeps people loving and living in small towns.

I had two options to cross the Mississippi River. Cycle south and cross the river on my bike into Chester IL, or cross in Ste. Gen with Maria and Jim and take the ferry. It was obvious to me... the ferry was the best choice! After crossing, I cycled 54 miles, including a short stop in Chester, home of Popeye. Popeye was created by Elzie Crisler, born in 1894 in Chester. In my photos from today, you'll see I biked along levee roads and through farmland. It was a beautiful, mellow day of riding. It hit me today how far I've come. I'm in Illinois!

Thanks again to Maria and Jim for hosting me and being such a significant part of Road to Rhode. Love to you both!

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From Sea to Shining Sea

Views from the road in MO. A bit of a welcome change from Kansas!

Views from the road in MO. A bit of a welcome change from Kansas!

I rode from Houston to Alley Spring and it was gorgeous. Hilly and green. A little different than what I've come from!

Historic Schoolhouse, Alley Spring MO

Historic Schoolhouse, Alley Spring MO

Recess, something that should be a part of every student's day. 100 years ago, and even now!

Recess, something that should be a part of every student's day. 100 years ago, and even now!

It was a short 42 mile ride from Houston to Alley Spring to meet my mom's friend Maria. Maria and her husband Jim live in Sainte Genevieve, closer to the Mississippi River, however, they love floating down the Current River in Missouri, close to where my Trans Am route will take me. I met Maria 1 minute before the planned time of 1:30pm at Alley Spring. How's that for cycling accuracy? She showed me around the old mill in Alley Spring and the old Schoolhouse, originally in Eminence but moved to this site in 1971 after being out of use since 1957. Notice the schedule on the blackboard? YUP, recess is included. Get that people? No need to eliminate recess, it's core and needed for our students to take a break from sitting and gain social skills and have a chance to be physically active (ok, I'll get off my soapbox).

Floating the day we got into Pulltite Campground. Life is GOOD.

Floating the day we got into Pulltite Campground. Life is GOOD.

Maria and I loaded my gear into her truck and drove through Eminence and turned north to the Pulltite Campground and reserved our canoe for the next morning, an 8:30am pick up. We got to the campround, set up our tents, put on our suits, blew up two little floats she had and grabbed beers and floated the mile down river. We just walked back up through the campground after the mile. Felt great- even at 5pm! Maria cooked an amazing meal of rice and ribs and I fell asleep by 9pm. We woke up, broke camp and got picked up on the school bus and driven up river to Akers. Many people were putting in at the same time, but you end up floating most of the 11 miles downriver in isolation, especially during the week. We stopped along the way to go into caves and check out different sandbars. We tried to start a fire to cook burgers, but with the recent rains, it didn't happen. We saw a bunch of wildlife and just enjoyed the environment. It's incredibly lush and beautiful. It felt great to be on water again... something I enjoy even more than cycling!

We completed the 11 mile float mid-afternoon and jumped in the truck and drove the 2.5 hours to Sainte Genevieve, where she lives. I met Jim, her husband and unpacked my things since I'd be here until Saturday morning. We went out to dinner at a local Mexican place, came home, grabbed chairs and walked to a local music concert. There are about 50 people in their local band that plays every Thursday evening in the Catholic High School parking lot, ranging from high school aged to retired. They played waltzes, polkas, Phantom of the Opera and even America, the Beautiful. When they played America, the Beautiful, I got teared up. I mean, sea from shining sea? That's what I'm doing! I'm incredibly fortunate to see amber waves grain, purple mountains and sea to sea. I know, cheesy, but incredible.

We walked to ice cream after the local concert, came home and I crashed. Today is about catching up on errands, getting a historical walking tour of Sainte Genevieve, getting interviewed by their local paper, the Herald and resting another day before heading into Illinois tomorrow! Crossing the Mississippi- I can hardly wait! 

Click on photo to scroll through album. 

Still lovin' Missouri

Thanks to Jinny for bringing me to Marshfield, back on the Trans-Am route yesterday morning! The Ozarks are just gorgeous. I had a warm, humid day riding... but it was a blast. Up and down, up and down. I have finally forgiven my mom and dad for moving us from Duncan Road to Wyneding Hill Road when I was 8. Growing up with hills of Gardner Street, Wyneding Hill and our driveway prepared me for the Ozarks!

Cow on left definitely won King of the Hill.

Cow on left definitely won King of the Hill.

I'll take more photos today of this area, didn't really stop much yesterday to take photos. Although, I do love seeing the cows in the water. It makes me giggle every time I pass them cooling themselves off.

I got into Houston after 65 miles around 3:30pm, about 30 minutes before the severe thunderstorms hit. I arrived at my friend Katherine's friends home, Joanne and Bill.  They welcomed me in and showed me their place. Joanne made me a to-go dinner, fresh ham and cheese sandwich, grapes and cherries, chips and cookies! They brought me over to Katherine's grandmother's home, which they had unlocked for me and turned the AC on that day, since nobody is living in the house anymore. When I got into the house, it was thunder storming and it was a home I was completely unfamiliar with. A little furniture here and there since nobody is living there, but with the storms and being alone it was a bit eerie. I showered and within an hour, the storm stopped. Katherine's cousin Jamie called and he came over with some local brews from Piney River Brewing Company. The Float Trip Ale was my favorite. Thanks to Jamie for coming over, welcoming me to Houston, enjoying a beer with me and making me feel a bit more settled in the house before I went to bed! Wasn't as eerie after he left. I fell fast asleep by 9:30. I'm currently having breakfast and looking forward to a shorter day of about 40 miles to Alley Spring near Eminence MO. In Alley Spring, I'm meeting up with Maria, a friend of my mom's from a recent trip internationally. Maria and her husband live in Saint Genevieve MO, but she loves to float rivers (on canoe). So, she and I are camping tonight up the Current River and floating it tomorrow! 

I went back and forth in my head about missing miles in MO to do the float trip. It actually has nothing to do with feeling like it's 'cheating'. It has more to do with missing a beautiful part of the country on bike. But, I had to give up about 100 miles of MO cycling in order to do this float trip. I'll see most of it via car with her on the way to their home, but I figured the experience with a local person will be far worth the missing miles! It's my trip... I make the rules! 

Katherine's grandmother's home.

Katherine's grandmother's home.

Joanne and Bill's home in Houston, Texas County Missouri... how's that for confusing?

Joanne and Bill's home in Houston, Texas County Missouri... how's that for confusing?

Missouri is Rockin'!

Love this place. It's green, and there are flowing rivers and wildflowers (including daisies and Black-eyed Susan's), and the people are incredibly kind. Like, over the top kind. Yesterday I entered into MO, so it's been a little over 24 hours and so far, I'm in love. With Missouri. My ride yesterday was long, but that was my choice. I left Pittsburg KS and crossed the border within 3 miles (see border photo below... I'm a hill, since it's opposite of Kansas here due to the Ozark Mountains). It drizzled on me most of the morning, but I didn't care! It was warm out and green and NOT flat and NOT windy. I passed 'J' road (many of their roads are letters) and loved seeing the farm silo's, pigs, cows and horses. The sun came out by afternoon as the hills got steeper. I stopped in Golden City at the famous Cooky's, a place for pies. The locals in Cooky's were so kind and asked me a ton of questions about my trip. I had fried chicken (3rd time in past year, which is more than I've had fried chicken in 20 years combined), and a slice of Reese's Pie a la mode. I had to have it a la mode... Yesterday was National Ice Cream Day. My friend Ginny in NYC reminded me today that August 2 is National Ice Cream Sandwich Day... hoping I'll have access to sandwiches in Kentucky on that day!

I continued on in the afternoon and pulled into Ash Grove around 5pm. Found the group of cyclists I've been with the past week, however, had the energy to continue on, so went on to Willard. Had dinner in Wilaard and realized I was only 6 miles from Springfield, so decided to continue on! Who cares if I'm 15 miles south off-route? I have never been to MO (other then the St. Louis airport), so why not check it out? Heard from Bill Potts-Datema, a colleague and friend who lives in Atlanta and works at CDC. His son and daughter-in-law Tim and Jinny live here. They gave me a call and wanted to know if I wanted to grab ice cream with them. Um, duh! They didn't even know it was a day to celebrate ice cream! They took me to Andy's, a local favorite (See photo. As you can see, I'm incredibly overwhelmed with what to order).

I decided I wanted to do a layover in Springfield. I just had an inkling I'd enjoy seeing the downtown. And, I realized after chatting with Tim and Jinny that I hadn't had a day off my bike since Breckenridge, on July 7. That's a lot of riding in heat and wind without a full day break. So, I looked at my mileage for this week and determined it was time. I'm also such a city-girl. I love cycling through these small, even tiny towns, however, I do miss the city. So, I fell fast asleep and slept better than I have in over a week. And, I slept until 8, about 2-3 hours later than usual.

Today has been a great day. I took a cab into downtown. No bike-day, remember? Not even for 3-5 miles. And from airport area, not a fun ride into town. I got dropped off in the square (even Don, my cab driver was so kind) and began my exploration of downtown Springfield. I immediately loved it. Coffee shops, trendy boutiques, alternative people... Hey, am I in a smaller Portland? I passed a spa and thought... I super under-budget on my trip, maybe I can pamper myself a bit. So, I got my nails done (the most ridiculous thing ever on a bike trip because they will be covered in grease by midday tomorrow) shellac pink! The first time I've ever in my life had pink nails. It sounds silly, but I'm so sweaty and dirty all day, most days, that there is just something about having painted toenails. I stand in a shower (sometimes disgusting showers in parks or campgrounds, sometimes nice showers) and rinse/scrub the bug spray, sunblock, sweat, dirt, grease, dead bugs off my body every evening. When I look down at my toes (currently purple with sparkles), it's over the top, but allows me to feel feminine. I smile every time I see them. So, I decided to get my fingernails done today when I walked by a salon. Pink. Outrageous! Eliza at Moda Salon was fabulous and took care of my nails. The owner Larry even gave me a spray (in a very small bottle) that will protect my hair from heat and sun damage.

I left the Salon and had sushi for lunch, seaweed salad and sushi rolls. I never get sushi in these small towns, no access. Mexican food or burger joints is about it. I rarely even see chain restaurants. The towns on this route are that small (most are under a few hundred people). After sushi I had some errands to do, like find a new bathing suit, since mine is literally falling off of me, but no luck there. I did find Five Pound Apparel a great local clothing shop and even bought one of their t-shirts - see photo below. That's how much fun I've been having the past 36 hours in MO... Enough to buy an article of clothing unrelated to a bike kit!

I spent some time in Mudhouse, a local coffee shop making calls to friends who have relatives hosting me in MO this week, or they themselves are hosting me. I spent some time meandering on Missouri State University's campus and walked to Hammons Field. I felt that I'm in the mid-west so I went to see the Springfield Cardinals play the Tulsa Drillers! Me! I'm not a baseball fan, but love sports and get into any live sporting event (Except maybe cricket). Two guys behind me (both named Andy, by the way) starting chatting with me. Hence the quote of the week, "Who knew I'd meet a crazy cool Jewish girl riding her bike across the USA to fight childhood obesity?" He was a physician. They even looked at my entire photo album of my trip on my iPad during the game. It was cool. It made me think about companionship again. Will I always intimidate some men? Will my powerful personality and strong spirit ever be considered sexy and not overwhelming to men? Will some men think, "she's cool", but not consider me a tomboy, but actually see me as a feminine, sexy person? Just questions I pondered on the way home.

Today was one of my favorite days of the trip. And that's ironic since I wasn't on my bike. Because I love the cycling- it's my favorite part. I haven't had a day when I've woken up and didn't want to ride. I was impressed with Springfield and I loved every moment of my experience here today. Hope you enjoy my photos from my first two days in Missouri.

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I'm in Heat

You know, like hot weather. Some readers have asked how I keep cool. I have a few tactics listed below:
1. I have an inflatable pool with me
2. I carry 50 pounds of ice a day
3. I have an air condition bubble around me
4. I have this superhero power called cold-blooded, temperature doesn't affect me

Ok, ok- all untrue. I drink lots of water, one bottle with Nuun tablets for electrolytes. I wear arm warmers, that are actually for hot and cold. They are thin and white and protect my skin from the direct sun. I keep them wet while I ride with the water bottle without Nuun tablets, except for that one time I wasn't paying attention and started to smell watermelon and see that my white arm warmers were a slight pink. I stop when I see shade if I need to rest, eat, stretch or water the plants. I stop at least once during the day in air conditioning if possible. Even though my appetite has diminished in the heat, I know I need the calories and find food that sounds appealing versus my typical diet habits. So, if a Slim Jim sounds good, I eat it. If an ice cream sounds good at 9am, I eat it. The other day, I wanted a package of blueberries and a full cucumber- so that was my snack! Heat exhaustion and stroke are true risks in this heat especially when adding exercise to that. It's very important to take keeping cool seriously. I may still consider bringing that inflatable pool with me next time...

I left Chanute and biked in hot weather all day. Drank over a gallon of water by the end of my ride. Stopped in Girard to eat a Subway sandwich and enjoy the air conditioning (thanks to MacKenzie at Subway who let me cross street to grab an ice cream and come back over and hang in Subway longer!). I pulled up to Pittsburg KS, about 15 miles later and thought... Do I really want to camp tonight? I'm so sweaty, it's threatening thunderstorms and I would love to be in cooler weather to sleep. It's been hot sleeping the past few nights. So, I happen to be IM'ing with one of my colleagues, Brian Coyle at Dept of Health in Nebraska. He and I both like to connect on cycling, soccer and school health! He mentioned his neighbor is from Pittsburg, so I put it out there... "Does your neighbor know anyone I could stay with?" Within 30 minutes (I had just pulled up to ask the Holiday Inn Express their rates), he IM'd me back to call him. Pat and Terry (and Melinda, their daughter) Pence would host me and they are truly wonderful people. Yes! Always an adventure! Love the relationships/connections we create in our lives.

As I waited for Pat to pick me up (they were 5 miles away, but have a truck and were willing to grab me due to the threatening storm), a few guys standing outside the hotel waiting (for what? I'm not sure) with a couple of coolers. I started chatting with them and they offered a beer, so we drank beer in front of the Holiday Inn while I waited. There's a big Farm Show/conference and they said most hotels in town would have been booked anyway. Thanks to the guys for the beer and conversation! One asked if I actually made the decision to do the trip under the influence. I thought that was funny. I replied, "No, but I was 15!" They said that explained everything!

Pat and Melinda pulled up and I hope they weren't offended I was drinking a beer outside the hotel with 3 male strangers, but it didn't phase them and Pat even said, bring it with you. I declined and explained I didn't need him to get a ticket for having an open container when he just met me and was going out of his way to host me! Pat is a social worker and Terri, a nurse. Both do not do direct care anymore, but work more in administration/support and seem to be passionate about their work. Melinda is their daughter. She is 33 and currently lives at home due to special needs. Melinda is a joy to be with. She has an amazing spirit and she is a fabulous host! She works at Wendy's and has for 10 years!! She has her license and is about ready to make that move to get her own place. Noah was also visiting. He is their grandson and visiting from Lincoln NE. So, full house and I still got my own bedroom, got to do laundry and they cooked an amazing meal for everyone! Grilled chicken wings and hot dogs and homemade pasta salad and fruit salad. Melinda shared a piece of her leftover birthday cake with me... With birthday cake ice cream on top! After dinner conversations were fun and engaging and I fell fast asleep by 9:30. (See photo of the Pence's below.)

As I go east it feels more east. It is incredibly subtle, like describing to someone the light difference between spring light and fall light. It's so subtle that it would be difficult to describe. Some things are obvious... The humidity, the sounds and smells. I left Kansas today. I have a love/dislike relationship with Kansas which literally draws a line between western and eastern Kansas. I didn't like the lack of daisies ;) wind, heat, isolation of western Kansas. I'm disappointed I never had a tailwind-century day like I've heard so many have had. I did, however, like the roads (great condition!), people in eastern Kansas (there aren't any in western Kansas, so I'm not offending anyone), free camping in every city park, the butterflies, the drivers gave me plenty of room when passing, sunflowers and rolling hills of this side (eastern). I had wonderful hosts this past week- Christian Dashiel in Sterling, Pat and Pam Duffy in Newton and Pat and Terry and Melinda Pence in Pittsburg! All three hosts made this trip through Kansas a lot more enjoyable. Thank you all... I feel like I have family in Kansas now.

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More PE Means More Football, Right?

I left Eureka yesterday and cycled 63 miles of a much more beautiful Kansas. Kansas and I are becoming friends. I saw butterflies almost the size of my palm and rolling green hills. I got some tailwind (finally!) which felt wonderful and I went over 20 mph, a first in over a week.

What are the lessons learned during the hard days? Mother Nature is not a force to fight. The wind has been the biggest challenge of the trip. By far. Typically cyclists traveling east get a tailwind, but not the week I'm in Kansas. Mother Nature switched it up. Lesson? Can't rely on prior stats, data, forecasts. Unpredictable challenges occur. Everyday. The days I have little wind or a tailwind I've come to appreciate. The 110 degree days I had? I've come to appreciate trees along the road for shade, 90 degree weather, the West- where I had water sources to jump into, cool nights. The challenges put everything into perspective.

I had a picnic lunch in Coyville and arrived in Chanute around 2:30. Some of the Wounded Warrior group had arrived at the city park, some were behind me. I set up camp, showered and headed into town. Sat in Giovanni's and ate what I think was the best chicken parm I've ever eaten. The piece of chicken was the size of a frisbee on a pile of spaghetti with authentic meat sauce (see photo). I ate half of it, caught up on my postcard writing and went to see a movie. Grown Ups 2 wasn't the most intellectually stimulating, emotional movie... By I laughed! Best part was sitting in air con for 2 hours. Hopped on my bike and was back at camp by 9:45pm, most of the other cyclists were fast asleep. Many of the cyclists I'm currently with like to get on the road in the morning, a few stay back and get going later. I love my breakfast, so I came back into town (2 miles!!) to find a breakfast spot. And, boy I'm glad I did. Not only because it fuels me and sets me up each morning for a great ride, but when I walked into the bustling (no joke) Grain Bin here in Chanute KS, a ton of local men wanted to chat with me. Mostly a retired group of men. More 'gym' in schools? "Yes, I advocate for more PE in schools." We want more football in schools. "Well, sports is an important component of a school community, but PE, not just sports is important too." One even bought my breakfast! How amazing is that?

I find when you travel with a group there are many positives, but your ride doesn't become just your ride. You could easily get sucked into competition of when you're going to start, what time you finish. That's something you take on yourself (or don't). You find yourself drifting from your routine that has worked for you because you're with a group. Not necessarily a bad thing. It's nice to have company, meet new people, feel supported. I do feel fortunate I'm on my own though. The independence and flexibility I have is something I don't want to take for granted.

The Ozarks are coming up. Everyone says they are harder on your body then the Continental Divide climbs. Ozarks are STEEP. Short hills, but knee crunching ups and downs. Over and over and over. Who's ready for the next challenge? I sure am!

If you want to follow my ride in more detail, follow me on Twitter! I tweet regularly and post more photos. @roadtorhode

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Spontaneity

Two days ago I texted a friend telling him he's just so predictable and needs to add more spontaneity into his life. I was poking fun at my friend. The next day, yesterday, within a mile of starting my ride, Greg (a teacher) was on his morning walk with his coffee and asked me how many miles I planned to do yesterday. I said about 70 to Eureka. He said, "I'm Greg, a teacher and I'm trying to get out and ride more. I'm going to go grab my bike and catch up to you and ride 25 miles with you today, so I get in 50." I thought that was pretty bold, but, I thought, wow- awesome! Greg joined me about 10 miles in and we rode 15 more miles before coming up on Curt and Danielle (two of the 9 riders from the Wounded Warrior group- I mentioned them the other day). The 4 of us had a great day riding together. I even had 20 miles of tailwind at the end of the day! Greg was so spontaneous that he ended up joining us for the entire day and arranged for a ride this morning. He had no overnight gear with him. Now, that's awesome. Spontaneity, courage, being BOLD at its best.

The day before meeting Greg, I rode from Sterling to Newton. My colleague Gary English in Kentucky has a close friend from undergrad that lives in Newton with his wife. Pat and Pam are unbelievable! Retired (rock-star) educators, Pat began his career as an elementary PE teacher and became a nationally recognized Elementary Principal in Hesston Kansas. Pam was an elementary teacher and became very involved with student literacy. They own an 1884 Italianate Victorian in Newton that both have been working on (I'm giving Pam credit because she does a lot to support Pat's love for refurbishing, reclaiming and bringing that house to a condition related to the late 1800's- early 1900's). They are also collectors and have vintage cars, toy train sets, carved wood sculptures (many were created by Pam's father), light fixtures, art, furniture, etc. (see photos below. They did give me permission to take the photos of their home!). One of the best things about staying with Pat and Pam was that Pat is a cyclist and met me about 25 miles out of town and rode in with me. This is the 3rd time someone has met me riding in for the day and it always feels good to have a welcome party when I get into a town. Pat and I chatted education (of course!) and when I got to their home they showed me the lovely Carriage House, my 'space' for the next day or so. I showered and Pam made us a wonderful lunch (and dinner, and breakfast- she's an incredible cook and even made homemade Key Lime Pie!). I got a full tour of the house, the vintage cars and even Pat's 'man-cave' - his impressive wood and tool shop above where the vintage cars are stored. Dinner was homemade meatballs and spaghetti and their daughter, son-in-law and three grandchildren came over for the homemade Key Lime. It was great to meet their family and their oldest son, Colin and I had a lot to chat about- he's apparently a strong soccer player and we talked not only soccer, but college basketball as well. He was NOT happy when he heard I was biking through Kentucky due to the Kansas loss to UK in 2012 in New Orleans for the NCAA National Championships. He wanted me to go bike around Kentucky, not go through it. He's only 8, so I tried to be sensitive but, I did have to rub in a little that I was at that game. Rooting for UK! 

I left Pat and Pam's... although it would have been wonderful to stay for longer since I fully enjoyed their space and hospitality (Pam not only did my laundry, but folded it for me!), their love and encouragement and support.

That brings me to Greg a few blocks from Pat and Pam's. Yesterday's ride was hot, a bit windy at times. But like I mentioned, I had some tailwind... 20 miles of it. The grasshoppers are everywhere... they are large. I'm really hoping I don't get one in the mouth. While I ride, they hit my sunglasses, my legs, my arms. I need to remember to keep my mouth shut. It was really fun to ride with 3 other people and eat lunch together and stop for a mid-afternoon icie (push-up popsicle)! We ended our day in Eureka Kansas and camped in the City Park (Kansas has a law about allowing cyclists to camp in city parks in every town. Many have showers and a public pool). I jumped in the public pool, showered and we sat around camp, chilling. They made me a gin and tonic (in a pickle jar) and I was happy as a clam. The firefly's are out... a sure sign I'm making my way east. I'm currently in Espresso Creations, a coffee shop in Eureka with a few of the cycling crew catching up on email and plugging in devices. I'll probably ride with this group for a while. There's something really nice about riding with people again. 

 

Pat and Pam! And their Thunderbird. (La Salle behind it)

Pat and Pam! And their Thunderbird. (La Salle behind it)

Pat and Pam's home

Pat and Pam's home

Pat and Pam's kids and grandkids!

Pat and Pam's kids and grandkids!

The Carriage House, my space at Pat and Pam's

The Carriage House, my space at Pat and Pam's

Inside of Pat and Pam's gorgeous home

Inside of Pat and Pam's gorgeous home

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What cyclists look like when we set up camp ;)

What cyclists look like when we set up camp ;)

Gin and tonic time. 

Gin and tonic time. 

Bike Maintenance time.  In my dress. One of my only pieces of clothing NOT bike-related.

Bike Maintenance time.  In my dress. One of my only pieces of clothing NOT bike-related.

Greg and I... we were meant to meet yesterday! We biked for a long time and chatted about relationships, life, education. Serendipitous...

Greg and I... we were meant to meet yesterday! We biked for a long time and chatted about relationships, life, education. Serendipitous...

Weirder Things Have Happened...

Woke up this morning after a good night's sleep. Had a long conversation with someone I hadn't talked to in awhile and I laughed a lot and went to bed feeling happy, and invigorated.

I biked 56 miles with a short lunch break along the side of the road (Subway sandwich that I bought last night). It rained for the first 10 miles, but it cleared and became a beautiful day. By 2pm it got hotter, but I made it to Sterling, today's destination by 1pm. It was humid in the morning, but my body never got too hot cycling today. That's such a change from the past week. To be at a normal temperature all day is a luxury. And, the landscape is getting greener and prettier. Things are looking up. I won't mention the wind or this blog entry will still be full of 4 letter words. 

So, I need to give you some context. As I mentioned in my last blog entry, I have been to Sterling Kansas, many years back (possibly 4-5) to do a CDC training (HECAT) for about 50 educators sponsored by the County Health Department here. The training was held on Sterling College Campus. Remember this detail.

About 3-4 summers ago, CDC also hired me to facilitate the Systems Thinking Systems Changing Simulation by The Network Inc. I facilitated the simulation in NYC for about 175 educators from about 25 Urban School Districts. The event was the Urban PE Summit and Portland Public Schools (PPS) sent a team (which I was thrilled about!). We even got to go to Gracie Mansion and meet Mayor Bloomberg... but that's another story. One of the PPS team members was Larry Dashiel, a Regional Administrator. We had yet to cross paths prior, but both had many colleagues in common. We hit it off and became friends. We now meet for breakfast at the Tin Shed (my last meal/breakfast before taking off on this trip) regularly to catch up about work, family, people we have in common. Larry's son, Christian lives in Sterling, Kansas. So, he told me to let him know when I was coming through. I got in touch with Christian a few weeks ago and lo and behold, he's the Chaplain at Sterling College (and where Larry, I hear, is a college football legend still!). Christian arranged for me to stay in Cooper Hall, the renovated and beautiful admissions building on campus in a guest room on the top floor. When I pulled up on my bicycle, I couldn't believe it. Cooper Hall is where my HECAT training was years ago. I'm currently sitting on a king bed in a gorgeous room 3 floors above where I facilitated an all-day HECAT training to 50 educators. In Sterling Kansas. The chances... it blows my mind.

Bike in front of window in my room at Cooper Hall on Sterling College Campus

Bike in front of window in my room at Cooper Hall on Sterling College Campus

Cooper Hall, my room is top, center below turrets. If you look carefully you can see my bike. I'm looking for a prince, know one?

Cooper Hall, my room is top, center below turrets. If you look carefully you can see my bike. I'm looking for a prince, know one?

It was nice to have an afternoon 'off'. I walked around the small, but pretty campus, got some lunch fixing's for tomorrow, got a pedicure (purple with sparkles on top... very princess-y), and walked over to Christian's beautiful home. I was welcomed by their three kids (Hannah, Zachary and Ellie, ages 2, 4, 7 respectfully) and their two large dogs. We had dinner together and then they were all off to gymnastics! I walked back to campus and I'm enjoying this amazing view out my half circle window at the tip top of this castle-like building. I wish the USA/Costa Rica game was on TV... apparently Fox Sports Midwest cares more about baseball then soccer (what the?!?), but Dad is texting me updates since my parents are actually at the soccer game.

My body seems to have healed from the brutality of the heat and wind from the past few days. Since both have let up a bit (the heat, not really the wind), my body feels a bit more normal. I really appreciate my body every day. It's amazing. I mean... it's working so hard to pedal me across this country. I feel so fortunate to have a wonderful physical body that does what I want it to do and is overall completely free of pain and healthy. Unbelievable. 

I talked to a friend today who is undergoing chemo treatment. She feels great (after the 4 days after her first treatment). And, she told me she wakes up everyday feeling lucky to feel good. I told her, we should all do that. Everyday. Love your body. I definitely cherish mine more than anything right now. 

Now you can see my bike! 

Now you can see my bike! 

You get really excited about weird things in Kansas. Like, trees on your right that block the wind coming up from the south. It means you can cycle more efficiently for those 500 yards or so...

You get really excited about weird things in Kansas. Like, trees on your right that block the wind coming up from the south. It means you can cycle more efficiently for those 500 yards or so...

I realized I hadn't posted a Kansas cornfield photo yet. Can't deprive my readers!

I realized I hadn't posted a Kansas cornfield photo yet. Can't deprive my readers!

You know you're in Kansas when... there's horse poop in the parking lot.  

You know you're in Kansas when... there's horse poop in the parking lot.  

2195 miles cycled, 91348 feet ascended, $13,625 raised

I've passed my halfway mark for both mileage and raising funds to eliminate childhood obesity*! I still have a ways to go, however (for both!). My charity of choice is the Alliance for a Healthier Generation (AHG). AHG works to eliminate childhood obesity in school and out-of-school settings all over the country. They are in over 18,000 schools and not only does the organization lead obesity prevention work among youth in the US, but supports implementation of best practices in many settings. My goal is $25,000. Help me get there. To donate, click here.

*Halfway mark on TransAm (OR to VA) not including riding up to RI ;)

 

Kansas is getting better. It was cooler yesterday and today. In fact, when I started cycling early this morning there was no wind for about 2 hours! It was dreamy. And, it was the first time that it felt like I was on the eastern side of the United States. The crickets, birds, humidity. The smell and sounds reminded me of Connecticut, where I grew up. Kansas is getting greener as I head east and a bit hillier (that's actually a good thing!). I still have to bike between 20-60 miles between towns, but it seems less remote somehow. For example tomorrow, between Larned and Sterling, there are no services on Route 19 for 58 miles. So, on the way into Larned tonight, I stopped at Subway and got my 6 inch sub for tomorrow's lunch. I'm getting a little sick of PB and honey or cheese sticks. I'll need to carry my water for the day.

I met a great group of cyclists, with a support truck that are riding to raise money for Wounded Veterans (Wounded Warrior Project). You can learn more about them or donate by clicking here.  I haven't met all of them while riding the past couple of days (they ride spread out), but ate lunch with Cliff today. There are 7 cyclists from all over US and range from 31-78 years old! Super diverse group, including one woman who is on active duty, but got released for 2 months to ride with the group. She is a wounded warrior herself, but can ride- she flew by me today! They invited me for margaritas in the park where they are camping, but I didn't make it. I have been so exhausted from the heat and battling the wind this week that I get in around 2-4pm, shower and take a nap for a couple of hours before I eat dinner. I almost slept right through dinnertime tonight. I didn't nap for the first 6 week of my trip, but this heat has added a layer of exhaustion to my day. 

The next two nights, I am staying with family of friends or friends of friends. In Sterling KS and Newton KS. I've actually been to Sterling, my destination tomorrow night. I'm a trainer for Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's Training Tools for Healthy Schools Training Cadre and I had the opportunity to do a training to 50 educators (pre-service and current teachers) on Sterling College Campus a few years back. It was for a tool called the Health Education Curriculum Analysis Tool (HECAT) and I remember having a great group of educators.

I can't believe I'm halfway through my trip. A friend posted a photo of my destination on Facebook today, the breach way on Charlestown Beach, Rhode Island. I guess I've never explained why Rhode Island is my end point. My parents have a little cottage in Charlestown and I grew up on that beach. That beach is where I learned how to swim. That beach is where I dug holes for hours with my dad and built sand castles with my brother. That beach is full of perfect childhood memories. It's one of the most important places in my life. 

Charlestown, Rhode Island Breach way (photo by Meghan)

Charlestown, Rhode Island Breach way (photo by Meghan)

You're Going the Wrong Way!

Sometimes I feel like telling other cyclists they're going the wrong way when I meet them. That's because I like them and want them to join me. But, we just pass in the wind. Sometimes moments, like a wave or nod without a stop on the road. Sometimes it's longer, like a meal. Or, we sightsee Old Faithful together.

Tonight I had dinner at a local restaurant here in Scott City, Kansas. I went to a place with a salad bar and on the way back to my hotel spotted a DQ. I can't really ride passed a DQ without stopping these days... duh. I noticed a couple of touring bikes outside of DQ. I got to meet a great group of cyclists- some who have met only days ago, some who have been leapfrogging each other for the past couple of months. They were Alex and Andy @LookMumNoCar from the UK, Sam from NC, Gary from Ireland and Tom and Joe from Phoenix. We sat and shared stories. I needed an evening with people. I haven't met anyone the past few days since the towns I'm cycling through have less than 100 people and it's so hot that nobody is outside in the evenings. There just hasn't been opportunities to meet anyone- local or cyclists!

I think I have Kansas beat. Here's my plan and it seems to be working. I get up early and start cycling by 6-7am. I finish by noon. I only do about 50-60 miles a day. I was doing 60-80 in WY, MT and CO... but believe it or not the heat and wind is more difficult for me than climbing mountain passes at altitude! So, I've succumbed to less mileage. My leg muscles ache more from the riding over the past 3 days then it has since I began this trip June 5. I never would have guessed wind resistance harder on my body than crossing the continental divide 10 times. Fascinating. 

I took an ice bath today. For my sore calves and quads. It really helped. I've never done that before. I literally got a ton of ice from the hotel ice machine and sat in a freezing bath to help my sore leg muscles. It worked. Brought down the swelling my muscles are experiencing and loosened them up a bit.

Tomorrow, I repeat. Get up early and ride. I hear the temperature is supposed to drop- to 95 degrees. Yup, you know you are in a hot place when you are excited about 95 degree temp!

 

Cyclist crew I met in DQ in Scott City KS. 

Cyclist crew I met in DQ in Scott City KS. 

I'm Going to Burst into Flames

Ok... Better day then yesterday. Slightly. The wind wasn't as strong (check out photo below- people plant trees around their property due to the wind) . It didn't help me... but it slowed me down less. However, the heat was intense. I'm glad I was on the road by 7:15. Less wind and a little cooler. If you call almost 80 degrees at 7:15am cooler. I made it to Sheridan Lake (although I don't think there's water in the lake- not that I could see) by 10:30 and I was thrilled the gas station had Subway-like sandwich offerings. I know it was only 10:30, but I had a 6-inch sub, chips and an ice cream sandwich. It was almost 100 degrees outside by the time I walked out. I was halfway through my ride at 10:30, but didn't get to my destination until 3.

I passed a turtle crossing the road. I stopped and moved him across and was confused since I had no idea there were turtles in this area! I moved him and wondered if I'd see many more that I'd feel the need to move so they didn't get crushed. I actually only saw 3 more... squashed from cars. A squashed turtle is not a nice scene.

I crossed into Kansas!! So I had to take my border photo (see below). I crack myself up. I literally have to set up the camera/tripod, set the timer, run over and in this case my pose was on the ground. You know... Entering FLAT Kansas. Dorky, I know.

What's funny is that I keep hearing about the thorns that cause numerous flat tires to all cyclists through Kansas. I had two- at the same time (rear tire and one trailer tire) about 100 feet for the Kansas state sign. So, in Colorado! It took me some time to change the tires... The heat was ferocious and it just takes time to patch and fix. Luckily there was one tree near where I flatted out, so I had shade for about an hour while working. I wish I had my "I'm Thorny" shirt (discontinued I heard, due to controversy), by the Portland Thorns (women's MLS team) in my drawer at home. It'd be perfect for this trip through Kansas.

I got to Tribune Kansas and settled for yet another motel. I got to the public pool in time for a dip before they closed ($1.50) and now eating at Karen's Kitchen... Where sometimes salads like these (see below) actually look good... when you are really hungry.

I know that Kansas will be like this. Wind and heat. So, I have waved my white flag and decided to keep my distance under 55 miles a day so that I'm not in pain. Or I don't die of heat stroke (actually a risk). Kansas will just take me double as long to get through. That's just what's going to happen. And, it's all ok.

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Wind: 1, Jess: 0

Yesterday was by far my most challenging day. Montana snow day was scary. Today was challenging and frustrating. By the time I got into bed in Eads CO, I broke down. My hard, strong, resilient, stubborn attitude from the day slithered off me into a puddle on the ground and my tears just flowed. I was trying to figure out exactly why I was crying. I think it was out of relief and letting go of the frustration I felt for about 40 miles of pedaling. I was physically and emotionally done.

Let me tell you about the wind. The last 3 miles took me an hour. There was a point yesterday I had to remove my sunglasses since the wind was beating on my face hard enough to make my nose sore. My helmet mirror wouldn't stay straight. I was in triple ring on a flat surface all day. My right ear hurt from the cross wind mostly coming from the south. It was so loud all day I was concerned about hearing loss. So, I put a bandana on my head to cover my ears. But remember, it's about 95 degrees. And, heat exhaustion/stroke is a very real problem. So, I had to use water to drench my head every so often. But not too much since I'm in such a remote area, I can't waste my water.

Most of the day was challenging, but not spirit-crushing like the last 20 miles. Prior to finishing the last 20 miles, I stopped in Haswell, praying there was at least a gas station to load up on water. There was (barely), but the best part of the day was meeting MaryAnn (mom), Erin and Bethany. From Maryland, Erin and Bethany decided to bike the TransAm (east to west) and mom (Erin's) joined them for a few weeks!
We discussed how empowering it was to see fellow women cycling (WE ROCK!) and how much ice cream we've eaten. In retrospect, I should have camped with them in Haswell in the city park... instead of pushing on. I enjoyed meeting them and we would have had a fun evening (no facilities, but who cares!). But, I pushed on. I encourage you to check out Erin and Bethany's blog at bikingthetransam2013.blogspot.com
See photo below of the three of them.

Let me be clear... it's not about the speed, or lack thereof. I would be fine climbing a hill at 4mph all day. It would be physically harder, but nowhere near as frustrating as the wind. Remember, I did cross the continental divide 10 times in the last month!

Layer on top of the wind... full exposure, nothing pretty to look at, isolation, and heat. And, it's demeaning to be able to see a town 13 miles away (have I mentioned it's really flat and there's nothing here?) and it takes 2-3 hours to get there. Now, I'm not typically a negative-Nancy and I knew there would be incredibly challenging days... But I don't want to write and capture just my easy, happy days. That would be leading you, the reader on to believe it's all fun and games. It's not. It's hard.

I finally got to Eads, stopped at the city park to use the restroom and looked down to see I had a flat trailer tire. Ugh. Fixed it and since it was so late (7:45), I went straight to dinner. My body was shaking. From fatigue and exhaustion. I ate and decided not to free-camp it in the city park, but rather pay $50 and stay the night at a motel. I showered and collapsed (and the tears came). I felt safe enough to finally let go and it felt good to let all the frustration and anger out. I fell sound asleep once I was fed, clean and safely in bed.

What did yesterday teach me?
- I can't put in 80 miles in this heat and wind. Although, sometimes in this remote area, you really don't have mileage options
- I need to start early, when it's cool and the wind hasn't quite picked up as much
- Most of these tiny towns have city parks that you can camp in... But being alone, that doesn't always feel like the safest decision for me. So, I opt for motels
- That this section might continue to be incredibly challenging and lonely
- It's important to still try and have fun and have a sense of humor... Even if I'm alone, feeling ugly and dirty (see photo with flowers in my hair)
- Tomorrow is a new day

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84 miler Canon City to Fowler

Today was hot. I guess it's preparing me for the heat and humidity that will be a regular occurrence on my trip from now on. It never ceases to amaze me the diversity of my environment from one day to the next. I left Canon City and said goodbye to the mountains and welcomed the flat that is eastern Colordao. Well, unsure if I'm excited for flat cycling or not. I mean, as long as there isn't Intense headwinds and crazy heat (ha! Had both today), you can pound out the miles. But the scenery (to me) is nowhere near as beautiful as the west. But, I hear from cyclists I've met that there is a beauty to Kansas.

I stopped and had a great breakfast burrito at The Pour House in Florence CO. I met a woman who biked the Southern Tier (ACA route) in the spring and had an amazing time. I think it was with Adventure Cycling Association because it was a supported ride. I should have chatted with her more (and taken a photo), but I knew I had a long day and ate my burrito fairly quickly and was out of there! I need to remember to slow down sometimes. I didn't even get her name. And those are the experiences I love the most... the people I meet. About a mile out of town I pledged to not rush out, especially with people who seem genuinely intriguing to me.

The heat today meant a few things... I noticed my appetite isn't as strong, so I need to force myself to stop and get calories in (I never thought I'd say that!) in the heat. I figured I drank over a gallon of water today and probably dumped about 30 ounces of water on my head to keep from getting overheated. Since I'm in a remote area, I need to look ahead on the ACA map to make sure I have water access. if there's a long time (usually over 30 miles), I need to carry extra water. With my two water bottles, two bladders and my Teavana thermos, I can carry about 90 ounces with me. If I know I have further to go, I'll buy water and carry extra. Which is fine, but creates a heavier load of course. I also need to reapply sunblock over and over. Seriously I'm so gross by the end of the day...

The terrain is really ugly here. It's dry (too dry actually and has resulted in fires as many of you know) and there's a ton of litter along the side of the road between Pueblo and Boone/Fowler. There was hardly any traffic for the last 25 miles of my ride, so I listened to music, which helped pass the time in the land of ugly. My rear view mirror reflected dark skies gaining momentum on me. Lightening flashed like a strobe. I kept pedaling and beat the storm, although the motel owner said, "We'll be lucky if we get precipitation, although there is a severe thunderstorm and hail warning right now." Glad I felt the need after 84 miles to stay inside... Air conditioning was calling my name.

I was thinking today that I haven't heard one cat-call, one whistle. No sexual harassment experiences. Just amazing. I honestly expected more of that and I'm incredibly relieved that it hasn't happened. I've had comments about my quads and calves... but all innocent! In fact, most men I meet are humbled by my adventure. Let's hope the respect continues! I continue to feel incredibly fortunate to be alone and feel safe cycling across the country. I'm careful and I know anything could happen at anytime... But overall, I feel very safe. We live in an amazing country.