"Maybe They're Wired to Experience Life a Bit More"

About 95% of the time when someone comes up to me and starts talking to me about my journey, they ask me two questions.
1. Where are you riding from/to? (Common reaction is shock)
2. You're traveling ALONE? (Then they say, "Are you crazy?)

I recently read an article on extreme athletes in Americanway, American Airline's magazine. It was the May issue. I don't consider myself an extreme athlete, however the article was an interesting read prior to leaving on this bicycle trip across the country.

Excerpts in quotes are from the article.
"A significant part of attempting these feats is realizing one's ability to overcome fear and pain to accomplish a goal. As athletes continue to push the boundaries of what's physically possible, people who study them are realizing that the mind is just as great an impediment as the body." I think most people can physically do many things... however, it is their mind that inhibits them from doing many things. My hosts from Rawlins told me they met a couple that were bicycle touring across the country with their 2 year old! I mean, if they can do that... what else is possible? How amazing is that? They had the will to do it. And they are.

"Many people's jobs do not offer a way to feel fully human. Pushing the potentials of the body is a natural fit in a world that is turning people sedentary." Yesterday, while riding, I thought, 'I feel alive. More alive than I've ever felt.'

I've had to have faith in the fact that my business will sustain after taking 3-4 months away. It's a scary, risky choice. But, I'm proud of myself for doing it. With discomfort (not pain, just physical and mental discomfort) and the unknown, you grow. Many of us choose the easier option. Whatever is convenient, safe, familiar. But, you won't grow as much as if you take risks, be bold. Do something you've always wanted to do. Quit a bad habit. End a relationship. Rekindle one. Embrace the unknown and become something bigger and better.

Vail, Breckenridge and Fairplay

Colorado's first daisy siting, on Vail Mountain!

Colorado's first daisy siting, on Vail Mountain!

I had a wonderful rest of 5 days off the bike. Thought it would be more difficult to motivate to get back on the bike, but I woke up in Breckenridge this morning feeling like it was time to continue on my journey.

At the Vail Symphony. A little different than bike gear and camping in remote campgrounds! 

At the Vail Symphony. A little different than bike gear and camping in remote campgrounds! 

Vail was full of eating yummy food, hiking (saw my first daisies in CO hiking up Vail Mountain), attending

the Bravo! Vail to see the Philadelphia Orchestra, connecting with friends who flew in for the weekend and meeting a bunch of new friends. After Vail, I went to Breckenridge and stayed at a friend/colleague's place. Our time only overlapped for an hour, but it was great to meet his partner and kids! Their home was beautiful... I took a long nap, did laundry, spent time in the hot tub, listened to music. Steve and Christopher's friend Dave stopped by and we hung out for a bit and chatted bikes. He even invited me to go mountain biking today and I have to tell you... being here has been harder to say "NO" then I thought. I see hiking trailheads leading into beautiful wilderness areas, mountain bike trails jetting off in every direction and hear of thrilling white water rafting. All things I love to do, but I'm fearful I'll get injured if I do them! I declined Dave's generous offer to bring me mountain biking, but I sure do appreciate him stopping by and meeting me. He gave me a few Enduro Bites, a new product (energy bar, gluten free) to try on the road. Haven't tried one yet, but I'll keep you posted! I went into Breckenridge Village for dinner and met Jeremy, a semi-local (he has places in Denver and Silverthorne) at a Mexican restaurant. Thanks to Jeremy for showing me a fun evening in Breckenridge! 

Last time I was here... must have been college to snowboard!

Last time I was here... must have been college to snowboard!

Thanks to Steve, Christopher, Julia and Beckham for letting me stay in their beautiful home!

Thanks to Steve, Christopher, Julia and Beckham for letting me stay in their beautiful home!

Today, I packed up, left Steve and Christopher's home, biked on the awesome Breckenridge bike trail (see photo), ran some errands in Breckenridge, ate a big lunch and started the climb up Hoosier Pass. It actually wasn't too bad, other than trying to get my groove back after 5 days off the bike. The hardest part for me was the altitude. I climbed to 11,539 feet, highest point on my trip and 10th (and last!) Continental Divide crossing. 

The downhill was sweet- into Alma and Fairplay. I got into Fairplay, did laundry (aka washed my bike clothes from the day in the sink with Woolite), showered and I'm about to grab a big salad somewhere. I'm back on it! Feeling very happy to be biking again and I'm looking forward to the next stage of my trip- the rest of Colorado and into Kansas. I'm actually a little sore this evening- from not cycling for a while, but I'm sure I'll be good to go by tomorrow. Update: I've cycled 1737 miles and climbed 84,911 feet! 

Breckenridge Bike Trail... Colorado, could you stop being so beautiful and awesome?

Breckenridge Bike Trail... Colorado, could you stop being so beautiful and awesome?

10th and FINAL Continental Divide crossing on my trip. And, highest point on the ACA Trans-American route.  

10th and FINAL Continental Divide crossing on my trip. And, highest point on the ACA Trans-American route.  

Relationships and One Decision

Sitting by the pool at the Four Seasons in Vail over July Fourth weekend is both overwhelming and a bit of a culture shock. It's strange to be taking a vacation from my 'vacation' cycling across the country. The pool boy shows me to my lounge chair, spreads my towel and brings me orange-infused water. A woman comes over offering me a Rice Krispie treat on a stick with red and blue sprinkles on it, while a guy with a guitar performs live music poolside. From my chair here at the pool I can see my balcony with my tent and tent fly hanging over the railing drying. Unsure that's what the hotel wants its guests to do, but I don't care. It's a little overwhelming to be around so many people. The most people I've been around on this trip other than now was at Old Faithful. So, it's amazing, but an adjustment. I'll adapt by tomorrow, I'm sure. I'm exhausted... I'm finally feeling the 15 days without a rest day. It's like when you're a college student pushing through to finals. You finally make it to break and you get there and you are physically and mentally dead to the world. Yup, that's me. Hyper, social Jess will be herself... In a day or two!

Been thinking of a past relationship recently. I think holidays do that for me... seeing families and couples together. Ever think back to one decision you made that changed the course of a relationship? I told him, "This isn't just a weekend for fun and games. I'm in love with you now, you know that? My heart is involved now." He answered me, "Are you serious? I know that." Obviously offended that I would even have to state something so obvious. In retrospect, he didn't really get it. He didn't get that this meant more to me then it had in the past. Months later it was obvious. I shouldn't have stayed that weekend.

I feel empowered by this trip. I'm a very independent, strong woman and have always been. But, I didn't really know how to be alone for most of my life. I'm an extravert. And this trip tests that for me. But it's been easier than I thought. I love my isolation and solitude. Hours and hours of riding my bike. Arriving at a remote campground and being the only one there. I cherish it actually. Maybe 'making up' for lost alone time for 35+ years when I didn't really know how to do it. Italy this past November helped me prepare as well. Hiking in Tuscany on my own was invigorating and empowering. There are benefits to traveling alone. The CA crew was able to come back and give me a lift easier because it was just me. I've had discounts on campground prices. I get to begin each day when I'm ready. And, there are other things... one morning I found myself getting sidetracked after my shower. Instead of putting on my clothes after I hung up the damp towel, I remembered I needed to add air in my rear tire, so I pumped it up. Naked. I mean, why not?!? (I was in my own motel room, not outside at a campground, FYI!)

I've been spending some time observing families on this trip. Fathers fishing with their kids, grandparents taking their grandchildren to Dairy Queen, families laughing around a campfire. I miss companionship. I miss being around and part of a family everyday. I'm not lonely. But, it has been on my mind a lot over the past year. I don't have a partner and my family lives on the east coast. It will be interesting to see where I end up. I don't have fears about being lonely or alone. I know I'll meet someone. I feel fulfilled now. I feel strong and solid and I've been happier on this trip than I've been in a very long time. Would it be nice to be traveling with someone? Sure. But this is my trip. And as I said, I cherish this alone time.

With hours on a bike, I think about past relationships. I'm proud of my journey. I've grown considerably over the past few years in many ways, including how I need and want to be treated in a relationship. I look forward with no time expectation to meeting a companion to share life with. To have stability and laughter and honesty and strong communication. Whether that happens in 7 months from now or 10 years from now, I don't know. But in the meantime, I'll continue to absorb, grow, stretch myself, learn, set boundaries, be honest and live life with integrity. And, that one decision can change the course of your life... And as much as it ended up causing me sadness, it's part of the path I was supposed to take. And as a result, I've learned a heck of a lot about myself.

Welcome to 'Unlawful' Colorado

Colorado welcomes me!

Colorado welcomes me!

I said goodbye to Wyoming on Tuesday. Wyoming's Yellowstone and Tetons have been a highlight of the trip so far. The people were great, the weather was perfect, the butterflies returned (too cold in MT) and I was relieved to have no tire issues. I was not sad to say goodbye to the roads (pretty torn up) and drier part of the state (not as pretty).

Colorado welcomed me with a sign that said "Welcome to Colorful Colorado". Although upon approaching from afar, I thought the sign said, "Welcome to Unlawful Colorado." My first thought was, 'wow, this is gonna be a fun leg of the trip!' As I approached I realized my mistake. Bummer.

I stopped for a late lunch in Walden CO after about 50 miles starting in Riverside that morning. I had a few options...
1. Stay in Walden (free camping in city park) but possibly not make it to Silverthorne and then Vail for the Fourth-where I have reservations for a few days
2. Continue on to Rand area and climb Willow Creek Pass and find camping in the National Forest
3. I had two ways I could cycle towards Kremmling- one meant I had to bike 60 more flatter miles on top of my already 50 to Kreemling (it was currently 3:45pm)... But HAD to do the full 60 miles, or go over the Pass, but have a 40 miles stop option.

9th Continental Divide crossing

9th Continental Divide crossing

Frozen handlebars!

Frozen handlebars!

I opted for #3, the 40 miler, even though it meant climbing the Continental Divide for a 9th time!! I had energy, the temperature was perfect and the scenery was gorgeous. Very different from the day prior leaving Rawlins in WY (mostly high desert-like vegetation, sagebrush). I camped alone in the forest along Willow Creek. I got into camp around 9pm with about an hour of light left. Set up my tent, boiled water for a luxurious meal of Top Ramen (I wasn't super hungry but knew I needed to eat and get more fluid and sodium in me). I drank a ton of water as a result of fear of dehydration at 9600 feet and due to the exertion of climbing the Pass. While my Top Ramen cooked, I bathed in the creek which was cold but felt good to clean off after a day's collection of sweat, sunblock, bike grease and bug spray (I went through an area with enormous mosquitoes). Unsure if I was in bear country still, I hung my food away from my tent and climbed into bed. I awoke at 2am, having to use the 'facilities' and I don't think I ever seen so many stars. What a sky! My feet never quite warmed up all night even with my wool socks on. When I clambered out of my tent in the morning, I figured out why. My water bottles were frozen and there was a layer of frost on everything including my bike! (See frosty handlebar photo below) It was cccold. I started my ride by 8am with many layers on. I ate a quick breakfast while I packed up and drank some tea, however, I was looking forward to eating a real breakfast in Hot Sulphur Springs. I figured there was a place that would make me eggs!

I passed a German guy going up the hill while I was going down into town, he wanted to chat, so I stopped. However, I think the etiquette on the TransAm should be if you are the one going downhill, your call if you want to stop or not. I mean, I could have blown by him, even though he waved and crossed the road to chat. I had a ton of momentum and didn't really want to stop. He talked and talked and I didn't mean to be rude, but I was almost out of water and HUNGRY and had 22 miles to get to my eggs. I told him I needed to get going and we said our goodbyes. Usually I'm fine chatting, but the hunger trumped chatting with another cyclist!

Nancy and her tricycle

Nancy and her tricycle

I must be in Colorado because this breakfast spot (The Glory Hole Cafe), offers veggies, including spinach in their omelettes! YES! And, The Shins are playing. Must be in Colorado. And, Diana the server was a doll and another customer, Nancy gave me $20 for my trip!! There's a photo posted below of Nancy and I with her new bike since she's trying to exercise more. Keep up the riding Nancy! I'm proud of you!

Tuesday was my longest day so far at 89 miles. I'm saving my first century for Kansas ;) Yesterday was 74 miles and by the last 36, I was done. Like OVER biking. After 14 days with not one day of rest, my body was done. I made it to my Warm Showers hosts here in Silverthorne- Cindy and Dave (married) and their roommate Aubrey. Awesome people. All cyclists. Dave is a carpenter and Aubrey and Cindy work for the US Forest Service. They live in a beautiful home and they cooked an amazing meal. We talked of common international travel sites (New Zealand, Bolivia, Europe), got updates on the day's tour stage and I fell fast asleep in a comfy bed of my own. I'm headed to Vail today to spend the weekend with a friend. And, I found out yesterday another friend decided last minute to fly in and spend some time here this weekend! Parade today, fireworks tonight, symphony tickets tomorrow night... I think this weekend may feel like culture shock. A far cry from taking an extra peanut butter packet from the motel last week!

I woke up feeling incredibly thankful (no chamois butter for 4 days!)... but seriously, to live in a free country where I think nothing of saying what I want, being who I am, and feeling safe to ride across the USA as a woman alone. Happy Independence Day everyone and thank you to those of you who help continue to support our freedom.

Online Dating Profile

I think of really random things while cycling. Hours and hours alone. Mostly I think I'm in a meditative state because I look down and I've done 11 miles and didn't even realize it. However, I think of men a lot. Past relationships, present, future. Friends, intimate partners, family. After my divorce, I was online for a bit meeting people. Overall I had good experiences, even though I'm not dating any of them currently. Some men are important friends in my life now. I got offline this past winter, however, the other day I was thinking how funny my online dating profile would be if I was on dating site while on this trip. Most sites adjust your location so it'd be perfect. If I want a date in Jeffrey City WY, pop. 32? I might secure one!

I believe you need to be honest in your profile. So, mine might include things like...
- Heads up, I'm not sticking around, I'll be gone by the next day (might be appealing to some men, although that's not what I call 'dating')
- This helmet is on pretty securely. It's for protection.
- If we happen to get intimate, you may see chaffing in weird places.
- My 'perfume' may bring back memories for you of the beach (sunblock)
- Again, if we get intimate, it's not a white shorty wetsuit I'm wearing. Those are my tan lines. For real.
- If I don't get a shower in, I may have dead bugs in elbow and knee pits and other weird things I've collected along the hot ride.
 - Huh, no, not a tattoo on my leg, that's just chain grease. Semi-permanent.
 - Be aware my quads and calves may be bigger than yours.
 - You must think a sports bra is sexy

What do you think? It'll work, right?

Jealousy. And, These Are Our Roads

Before I jump into my topics for today... THANK YOU to Molly and her Mom whom I met at one of the random scenery lookouts in WY and refilled my water bottles even though I knew I'd had enough! Molly attends Yale and is doing an internship over the summer in pediatric nursing (I think) in Jackson WY. They were driving out from CT. Good luck Molly! I wish I grabbed a photo of them. 

And, I met Barbara and I forgot the other two names (guy from NH with Barbara) and a guy from Poland. I have their names written down, but not with me here. Barbara is a former PE teacher! YAH! Retired and living in Boston now. She's biking across the US as well. 

Today at a rest stop, I met two people who live in NE Portland (where I live) traveling around. Jill gave me a huge hug after we chatted for a bit. She just retired from Emanuel Hospital. At the same rest stop, I met a guy from NJ, but went to Cornell in Ithaca NY, probably 10 years before me. I went to Ithaca College. We talked about the Finger Lakes. He was super proud of what I was doing and I gave him one of my Road to Rhode cards with my website on it. When he went into the bathroom and I finished eating something (I'm always eating), his girlfriend walked over and asked me what I gave her boyfriend. I said one of these cards and gave her one. She handed it back and said, "I'm not thrilled you gave him your information." I was so shocked, I hardly knew what to say. But, I said, "I'm trying to raise $25,000 to eliminate childhood obesity. I gave him my website info about donations." She walked away mumbling, "I don't like that you gave my boyfriend a card." WHAT? Are you that insecure that you think your boyfriend in NEW JERSEY is going to really follow up and contact me? And, he wasn't hitting on me. It bothered me for about an hour while riding. Because I thought about people (especially women) who are so insecure and jealous that they are manipulative enough to make me, the innocent person feel guilty about nothing. What is up with that? Here I am... didn't shower today. Biked 20 miles in the heat. Wearing a helmet and sunglasses. I am covered in sunblock and probably have blobs of it not rubbed in on my face. Wearing biking gloves and bike shorts (so NOT attractive) and she's worried about me giving her boyfriend a card? Anyway, he walked out of the rest stop and yelled, "Good luck and safe travels!" And I waved, thinking... you have a big fight coming your way. What's with her jealousy? Super sad.

Ok- enough of that. Now onto the road topic. I've had to cycle (or not) through construction on roads on this trip. And, it doesn't bother me to stop and chat with the flagger and wait as the one-lane traffic comes through. It happened in MT and now in WY. In some cases, they have to place my bike and trailer (and me) in the lead truck and drive me across the construction (has happened 2X... only a couple miles each time). What is interesting, is that people in their cars get frustrated about having to wait. I hear them because I'm standing there and their windows are down. Or, they get out of their cars to let their children run around and I hear them complain. I understand people are impatient because they want more time in the Tetons or want to see more wildlife. However, chill OUT. Have these people been to other countries or at least seen photos of roads in other countries (ok, probably not)? Our road system is overall amazing. Road construction is an important part of our infrastructure. Not just so that 38 year old fortunate Jess Lawrence can take 3 months mid-career to bicycle across the country. But, roads are essential for our commerce. Our tourism. For people to have access to information, health-care, food. So- sit in your cars and know that your taxes are paying for a very important service. We are extremely fortunate here in the US with our road system. TRUST ME.  

 

Ripped up shoulder outside of Rawlins WY. So, as a cyclist, you have to ride in the road. Or hitchhike through.

Ripped up shoulder outside of Rawlins WY. So, as a cyclist, you have to ride in the road. Or hitchhike through.

On another note, but somewhat related, Wyoming's roads are awful. I was happy to see 12 miles of construction on the shoulder outside of Rawlins WY, however it wasn't a fun time for me. No construction workers (Sunday), and the entire shoulder is ripped up and completely unrideable. And, it's kind of a highway. So- you have your rearview mirror (don't bike tour w/o one!) and you see car and trucks and semi's coming up behind you hoping they will veer into the other lane, OR, they have to slow down enough to wait until other cars coming the other direction pass. Again, an experience my mom and dad will be happy to hear after it happened. I was run off the road two times by cars that were coming up and seemed to be a little too close for my comfort. So, I went into that gravel-y looking stuff in the photo which is like quicksand. NOT FUN. Luckily I had a tailwind and got through the 12 miles in under an hour. 

Glad WY is doing that work. However, the roads here, like I said are awful. Not in all cases, but on a lot of this route, the shoulders are tarred (from cracks) and on hot days, when the tar-lines run parallel to your wheels, you don't want your wheels getting caught in those tar-ruts. Today wasn't so bad since my ride wasn't heavily trafficked. However, the cracks across the entire road every 20 feet get annoying. Some are large enough that plants are growing in the shoulder cracks. So- keep working on those roads WY...

I stayed with Lucy and Kevin last night through Warm Showers. They were amazing hosts! Lucy and I went to her community garden plot and harvested our salad and then she brought me to the store so I could load up on some essentials- contact solution, bread, peanut butter... 

Lucy's breakfast!

Lucy's breakfast!

Kevin and Lucy, my wonderful hosts in Rawlins WY! Just look at all those fruits and veggies!

Kevin and Lucy, my wonderful hosts in Rawlins WY! Just look at all those fruits and veggies!

Lucy made an amazing meal of a large green salad full, beet greens and beets sautéed, and a yummy quinoa with cooked onions, black beans and tomatoes. WOW! And, we had ice cream for desert... Lucy wouldn't even let me buy the ice cream! And, this morning, she made an amazing egg dish with some of the veggies and garlic and added brown rice. YUM! We had great conversations (they read my blog and knew so much about my trip- that made me feel good!) and I felt as if I've known them for years. We even chatted about people who have stayed with them who I've met along the way or have heard of. That was fun! Lucy and Kevin truly made me feel welcome and as I said to them on my way out, I felt like I had a layover there even though I didn't. Just because it was such a relaxing place to be! Thanks L & K!!

And, my ride today was great. 60 miles to Riverside. I stopped at Saratoga Hot Springs (free) and once I got to my campground, I jumped into the river (felt amazing), showered and happy to have internet in the laundry room here. Going to walk across the street and grab some dinner at the local restaurant and crash early in my tent! Oh- and I loved seeing this sign on the road today. YAH! 

 

Share the road CARS! 

Share the road CARS! 

The Octopus' Garden

Jeffrey City. All boarded up and deer running the 'town'. 

Jeffrey City. All boarded up and deer running the 'town'. 

After a wonderful night's rest     in Lander and a fairly easier bike ride, I got to Jeffrey City by 2:30pm yesterday after a nice short 56 mile day. So, Jeffrey 'City' has about 30 inhabitants and it's basically a ghost town. It's filled with abandoned homes and buildings and deer in the streets. There are even eery abandoned barracks from uranium mining days. I started to worry about where I'd stay. I thought there was camping there, but alas, I couldn't find anything. Then I saw the Split Rock Bar. I saw two other bicycles, fully loaded. I breathed a sigh of relief. I walked in and there was one guy at the bar, one behind the bar and two cyclists. I introduced myself to them after walking through the squeaky screen door (when everyone looks at you). Tina and Todd will be celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary this summer on this trip and Tina, her 50th birthday, in Dayville Oregon! They are cycling from St Louis to the Oregon coast. They were both laid off from their jobs and seem to be embracing the opportunity versus stressing about it. Good for them! They live in the Charlotte NC area. Tina and Todd have also completed the Oregon coast ride to San Francisco, so we compared stories.

Tina carrying beer over to meet Byron.

Tina carrying beer over to meet Byron.

Byron's Trailer for cyclists. He lives in the building in back. No running water or electricity in either.

Byron's Trailer for cyclists. He lives in the building in back. No running water or electricity in either.

We decided we were in this together and we'd find a place to stay, which seemed like an adventure. But, at least I wasn't alone. We started drinking Bud Light (not my typically drink of choice... but Bud Light just seem to fit the ambience and experience. After two beers, I was pretty buzzed (low tolerance), we walked across the street to see Byron, who was recommended by the guys in the bar to talk with regarding a place to stay. Byron is a very talented pottery maker (44 years old), but currently drinking more than he's throwing clay. We walked into his home/studio/shop and he was sitting on a chair staring into space drinking an enormous glass bottle of whiskey from the bottle. Byron, a very generous person, offers his trailer (named the Octopus' Garden by the artists who painted it originally in Cabo San Lucas) in front of his home/studio/shop to cyclists coming through. There's a couch (where I slept) and a bed (for Tina and Todd). It was, well, kind of safe. His yard was covered in broken bottles and random other garbage. Or treasures, depending on what you may need. Broken cell phones, gardening tools, toothbrushes, knives, spoons. You know, a very kid-friendly place. No running water even. 

Byron, Todd and Tina. Boom box blaring classic rock

Byron, Todd and Tina. Boom box blaring classic rock

We ate dinner back across the street at the bar and Byron tried to persuade us to participate in many different common local Jeffrey City activities... such as:

  • Going into the abandoned barracks and playing hide and go seek
  • Throwing clay on the wheel and making some pottery
  • Having a bon fire
  • Smoking pot

Being the responsible cyclists we are, we declined his offers for such fun and crashed out in the trailer by 8:30pm. We all slept... well, kinda. No shower, hot and sticky and some mosquitoes. We all woke up with the sun at 5pm ready to get out of this incredibly surreal place. We packed up, said our goodbye's to each other and went our separate ways (Tina and Todd west and myself east).

Early morning riding!

Early morning riding!

I biked to the Annalope Cafe, in Muddy Gap and had a nice big breakfast. The owner, Tebra (yes, with a 'T') is closing her cafe this week on July Fourth. Issues with the owner of the building and land. It'll be a long stretch for cyclists without food along this route without this cafe being open. After hearing about my trip and trying to raise $25,000 to address childhood obesity, Tebra donated my meal to me (how awesome is that??), but I did leave her a good tip. 

Herding cattle.

Herding cattle.

I saw a real cowboy and a cowgirl herding cattle on my ride...

 

 

 

 

 

 

And, I met Patty, a teacher from Portland OR and her dog Digit. 

Donna and Digit from Portland OR. Check out that basket for Digit!

Donna and Digit from Portland OR. Check out that basket for Digit!

And, I crossed the Continental Divide for my 7th & 8th times! I'm currently in Rawlins WY at Kevin and Lucy's home- warmshowers.org folks. More to come on their amazing hospitality. I'll probably be offline for a few days through WY/Northern CO. Just a heads up.

Continental Divide crossing #7

Continental Divide crossing #7

Continental Divide crossing #8

Continental Divide crossing #8

No Daisies in Wyoming

Yesterday's bike ride from Dubois WY to Lander was a bit warm and harder than expected. I got a later start (about 10:30am) to spend some time updating my blog  and completing other tasks I need to do every few days (I'll blog about that at some point!). I shouldn't have left so late. Sometimes the cycle maps for the ACA Trans Am route are deceptive. The maps are accurate, don't get me wrong... but of course they are a birds eye view and so all the little steep uphills aren't on there. Even though it appears as though the entire day will be a slight downhill, it wasn't. And, take into consideration the headwind. 74 miles of hard biking in heat. Exposed roads. I loved it, don't get me wrong... but my body was just out of it and exhausted by 8pm last night.

Luckily, most of the route for the first half of the day was along the Wind River. I stopped at a beautiful lunch spot yesterday and I may or may not have jumped into the water and I may or may not have worn clothes. Your guess...

Refresh-time!

Refresh-time!

When I got into Lander, I knew there was free camping for cyclists in the city park, and I heard from other cyclists on the road going the opposite direction that there were a great group there... but I couldn't do it. I was exhausted and needed my own space. Good thing because I got in, showered, walked across the street to some diner-like place and ate a huge salad. Came back into room and could hardly take my clothes off to get into bed. Wow- that ride exhausted me! More than any other days so far. The heat. I think I need to keep my mileage at this elevation and in this heat to 50-70 miles/day versus 70-80. So- I'm up early today and I'll get on the road with less wind (not much wind early mornings) to get cooler weather this morning and hopefully take a long break during the day (something I didn't do yesterday). 

Of course in my last blog post I wrote about hitting 41 mph, which I KNEW my parents would read even though I wrote, "Don't tell my mom and dad." Here's my mom's response. Love it:  

 "Downhill at 41 MPH- WOW…glad you told me after…like Dave [my brother] swimming with sharks and bungee jumping in South Africa.

XXMOM"

Leaving Dubois

Leaving Dubois

I haven't seen daisies (my favorite flower for those of you tuning in for the first time) in Wyoming yet. They led the way through Oregon, Idaho and Montana. And, daisies showed up in the most choice locations when I needed a push or inspiration. It's amazing how within a day, the scenery changes drastically. Yesterday I left the Tetons and today I'm in an area that looks very similar to eastern Oregon's high desert. Yesterday I left the smell of pine and here it smells of sagebrush.

Here are some photos from the ride yesterday.

IMG_4763.JPG
IMG_4764.JPG
IMG_4767.JPG
Lunch spot along the Wind River. Very isolated. 

Lunch spot along the Wind River. Very isolated. 

Side Orders and Obesity

“Food is the most widely abused drug, and exercise is the most potent yet underutilized antidepressant” ~ Bill Phillips

I'm fascinated with 'Side Orders' in the small towns I'm cycling through. Surprisingly (to me at least!), fruit or vegetables are never on the breakfast side order menu. It's unbelievable. I understand that many of these restaurants in small towns struggle to survive. So, purchasing fruit that won't sell is not only a financial risk, but a waste of food. However, if fruit isn't offered, people don't have an option to eat it. So, what's the answer?? Can our government subsidize fruits and vegetables so at least it is accessible and maybe people will start to eat it? Or, can pilot grants be available in these towns to see if it'll work? If offered, would people choose it? Have they tried that? I know education would need to be included with the additional side order items to encourage people to select it, but it's worth a try, isn't it? Take a peek of some of the side order options at recent restaurants below.

Obesity prevention is on my mind often as a result of trying to raise $25,000 for the Alliance for a Healthier Generation, an organization working to eliminate childhood obesity. They work in and out of schools all over the country targeting youth. The 115+ staff around the US work diligently to help communities and schools support physical activity and healthy eating. I just got to 50% fundraising efforts, which means more effective programs, policies and practices will be put in place as a result of the $12,000+ I've raised. 

Obesity was recently declared by the American Medical Association as a disease. I think many people assume that being overweight or obese is based on a person's decisions only. This is a myth. It's not just about personal control. There are so many variables. I travel for work almost 50%. I know how difficult it can be to maintain my weight while on the road. I'm tired, my schedule and sleep is disrupted (affects metabolism), access to nutrient-rich foods in airports is rare, although improving. Heredity plays a role, as does your environment. Many of the small towns I ride through may be considered food deserts by some. A food desert is an area with little or no access to healthy foods, and in many cases, only fast food or service station options exist. Parents - model eating fruits and vegetables in front of your kids. Even if they don't try it, or like it... introduce these foods to them over and over. Model eating it, cook it (and have them help), show pictures of it. 

And, let's talk about physical activity. Again, with 50% travel, I know how difficult it can be to stay active. I sometimes think how easy those of you who don't travel have it... set schedule, sleeping in the same bed, access to an area you know well. Ok, I don't have kids, but you can make physical activity part of your routine. Park farther away at the supermarket to get more steps in. Find something you enjoy. There are hundreds of physical activity options. Many at low or no cost. Again- model it for your kids. They need to see you in workout gear. They need to see you sweaty. Make it a part of your routine... while working, while on vacation. I always think how fortunate I am with my family. Even now, when we are all in Florida together, we wake up and everyone figures out what they will do for exercise that day. It's routine. We do it because it feels good, we do things we enjoy (together) and we want to have many healthy, quality years enjoying each other's company. 

“The food you eat can be the safest form of medicine or the slowest form of poison” ~ Anne Wigmore

 

photo.JPG
1.JPG
2.JPG
3.JPG

"I'm Safe. I Work in Law Enforcement."

I woke up in bear country, Yellowstone National Park, the world's first national park. It poured all night long, but I was cozy and dry in my tent. I packed up early, thanking the staff at Madison Campground for offering hikers/bikers free tea and coffee in the morning. The day through Yellowstone was by far my favorite so far. It was my longest day at 80 miles and passed over the Continental Divide 3 times! The park was abundant with red, yellow, white, pink and purple wild flowers everywhere. And, I saw buffalo, deer, swans & other birds. It was a majestic ride through the park.
Although, Yellowstone is not necessarily a bike friendly park. There's barely a shoulder and at times the traffic is heavy. The one saving grace is that vehicles are going slow as a result of traffic, speed limit and passengers eager to catch a glimpse of wildlife. I'm positive I saw more than the cars as a result of my speed. It was, however, well worth it.

The views were magnificent as I left Yellowstone and entered Grand Teton National Park (see photos below). The Tetons... breathtaking! Jutting upwards into the blue, blue sky with sharp edges. At times on this trip (and this was one of them), I turn a bend and see something I never expected. And it brings tears to my eyes. I just can't help it. The extreme beauty of our country and the kindness of people and the strength of my body to ride like I'm riding is just overwhelming at times.

My day was long and as I climbed yet another hill, I passed a woman going the opposite direction on her bike, with no gear, so I presumed just out on a ride from a home or campground. She came back around on her way back and slowed to say hello. She asked me my destination for the day and I said Colter Bay Village. She asked if I wanted a warm shower at her place- she lived there. I didn't respond right away because 1. I'd been riding for 76 miles at this point over 3 mountain passes and my brain was fried 2. Didn't know how much farther it was 3. Trying to figure out logistics of meeting her where she lived. I apparently took so much time to process these things that she looked at me and said, "I'm safe." A which point I still didn't answer because I thought she was telling me that was her name. Now, envision this... We are biking, making sure no cars are coming up behind us and I don't even respond! She added, "I'm in law enforcement in the Park with my husband, you can trust me!" At that point I laughed at myself and said, "Ok, where do I meet you?" We met at the Colter Bay junction and she brought me to her home. I apologized for acting so weird and we got a laugh out of me thinking her name was Safe. I think that's my nickname for Aimee now. Safe.
I showered and Aimee offered me dinner and a place to crash. And laundry! When her husband came home, she announced they had a house guest and Clay welcomed me. I learned that they have worked for Parks all over the US but have been in this location for the longest. I'm assuming they are a bit younger than me and seemed to have settled into a life that they truly love. Two of their friends joined us for a fun evening of hanging. Aimee made me an enormous salad with grilled chicken and even offered any bike tools in case I needed to do any work on my bike- they had a shed full of bikes. I know I'll see Aimee and Clay again. We all clicked, ya know? We discussed meeting up in Brasil (heads up Gary and Kathleen!) to do some backpacking. Again, I'm amazed of the kindness of strangers. I mean, Aimee literally biked up to me and offered me a warm shower. Love it.

I woke up this morning and Aimee cooked me eggs with avocado and she quartered a kiwi on the side... What a host! I would have love to hang with them longer, but I have to be on Frisco CO to meet with a friend flying in for July Fourth weekend to spend the weekend with me in Vail. So, I got back on the bike, with a full stomach, a good nights sleep on a comfy bed and clean laundry!  Today's ride was shorter- 63 miles. My ascent was 7039 feet over the course of the 63 miles! Most I've done in a day. I crossed the Continental Divide for a 6th time. Highest elevation I've been on this ride- about 9500 feet above sea level. I met two guys on mountain bikes doing the The Great Tour Divide Race. if you don't know it go here- http://tourdivide.org/
We cycled together a little and they told me they heard of me a few days back and were excited to catch up to me. I took a photo of them in front of me- see below. You can see they hardly carry anything. They also snapped my photo and I took off down a hill- a bit faster then them on my road bike. They were headed off road at some point soon after.

My body seriously feels like a machine! The ride was so diverse. I had views of the Tetons in my rear view mirror most the day. A I climbed the massive 25 miles hill, which took about 3.5 hours, I enjoyed the wide shoulder, smooth pavement and most importantly, the tail wind! Finally! My 30+ mile downhill was fully enjoyed and I got into Dubois WY easily.

The weather has turned for the better after my snow experience not so long ago. The sun is out and the temperatures are supposed to warm up.  When I go downhill, however, I usually throw on a layer or two. For warmth, but it's an added layer of 'skin' in case I fall. Not that I'm expecting too! Don't tell my folks I hit 41 mph. I usually max around 30, but I was curious. I won't do it again mom and dad, I promise!

NOTE:
When I update my blog on my iPad versus my laptop, I'm not able to embed photos where I want to or label them. So- you'll see a photo of my lunch spot- recharging my phone via laptop, about to write some postcards (thank you's to recent donors) and eat some yummy food. Typical lunch scene for me... You know, with the Tetons in the back! You'll also see the scene diversity in my ride today. And the moon above the Tetons!

iphone-20130627214705-0.jpg
iphone-20130627214705-0.jpg
iphone-20130627214705-0.jpg
iphone-20130627214705-1.jpg
Typical lunch scene. 

Typical lunch scene. 

iphone-20130627214705-3.jpg
iphone-20130627214705-4.jpg
iphone-20130627214705-6.jpg
Hills heading into Dubois WY. 

Hills heading into Dubois WY. 

iphone-20130627214705-7.jpg
Two guys on the The Great Divide race. CRAZY!

Two guys on the The Great Divide race. CRAZY!

Yellowstone and a Tribute

At this point, 24 days in, I've cycled 1151 miles. Hard to believe I'm a quarter of the way through my trip. And, I have to say, biking into Yellowstone Park was a highlight. Literally biking through the entrance, paying the fee and cycling the 14 miles to Madison area campground was amazing. It was late afternoon and most cars were leaving the park. After a few miles, I entered into Wyoming! My fourth state.
Cycling thru the Park was a surreal experience. It's so pristine and clean and almost feels like a Disney ride for some strange reason. The animal crossing signs have flashing lights around them and everyone is driving super slow to get a chance to see wildlife. The benefit of being on a bicycle is that you're quiet, see more wildlife as a result of being slower, have a better view of everything and well, it's just plain cooler to see it this way! I got to Madison Campground, which was full, but never for bikers/hikers. I paid my $6.80 and was shown the biker/hiker site, the food storage containers (black bear country) and met two guys- from Germany and cycling from Miami to Missoula. They are almost finished and in fact, I gave them my ACA map for West Yellowstone to Missoula. They offered to give me cash for it, however, they are doing me a benefit by taking something I don't have to carry anymore! They were thrilled and we sat by the fire talking late into the night.

On a different note, wanted to point out that every 3 days or so, I'm wearing a bike jersey that was designed by my ex-husband Jered, but tells of Meg Berte's cancer story. Meg was the daughter of one if my mom's best friends. Meg was a few years older than I was, however, we ice skated together and sometimes had play dates together. Meg was ahead of me in HS, obviously, but I always knew what was going on with the Berte kids (Tom, Ben and Sira too). Meg was diagnosed with Hodgkins Lymphoma when she was 23 years old. She was treated at NYC's Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center. She went through aggressive treatment that left her with only 35% lung capacity. She was in remission for 12 years before succumbing to a lung infection due to her lungs being compromised. To read this extraordinary story of Meg, go to : http://megberteowenfund.com/

During her remission, Meg was selected to join Lance Armstrong in 2005 and bicycle across the country for the Tour of Hope, his ride across America to bring awareness to cancer research.When Meg found out she was selected, she asked Jered to design her a bike jersey. We happened to be in NYC and met with Meg one sunny afternoon. She relayed her survivor story to Jered and from there he designed her shirt. The 52 was her clinical trial number, a hornet on the front is what she named her bicycle years prior. Hope, research and family were words of inspiration for her and are within cell-like forms. An anatomical figure is on the front with a star at the heart. An abstract map of the Tour of Hope route from San Diego to Washington DC is on the back. She wore this jersey and we printed many more for her friends and family. I got one that year as well.

I brought this jersey (I'm wearing it in Wyoming sign photo) because Meg lived life similar to me. Our spirits seemed alike in many ways. Everyday I wear her jersey on this trip, I think of her. And I think of her entire family and the extreme loss they've had over the past few years. We never know when our last day may be. Tell people you love, you love them. Be honest. Put yourself out there. Challenge yourself. If tomorrow is my last day, I can say I've lived life. And I've challenged myself while fulfilling a huge goal.

A WarmShowers.org host that I stayed with recently wrote me to say he's been following my blog. I want to share what he wrote because it fits here. "Jess, please accept my humble appreciation for reminding me what a blessing it is to be alive and to be grateful for what I have, versus what I want. And for reminding me that, like you, with my bike, I have the blessing of 1. Helping Mother Earth heal (one less car) and 2. to be able to become closer to her and better appreciate her beauty. Wishing you days filled with serenity and beauty... And just enough challenge to keep you strong."

iphone-20130625192031-0.jpg
iphone-20130625192031-0.jpg
iphone-20130625192031-0.jpg

Saying Goodbye

It was much harder to say goodbye to the CA crew this morning than I thought. I mean, I only met them a little over a week ago. But, their kindness, support, love, hilarious stories and memories we created left me a bit sad as I hopped on my bike this morning and rode away.   

One of the things I was looking forward to most about this trip were the people I'd meet. I mean, I just stopped at the post office to mail something and a guy started chatting to me and told me he'd go online and donate after I gave him a Road to Rhode postcard. He gave me a great food recommendation (Wild West Pizza in West Yellowstone), a place with a gouda mac and cheese to die for (I suggest adding broccoli and Italian sausage to it!). Some of the random conversations are amazing, but meeting people like Margie, Ray, Mike and Terri on this trip really give you a sense of how amazing most people are! I mean, to be welcomed into their family gathering like I was? So, it would make sense that parting ways would bring some sadness. I feel blessed that our bicycle routes intersected exactly when they did. I was supposed to meet them and they were supposed to meet me. I'm already planning to go to Southern CA for a visit this upcoming winter. I'm sure we'll continue to share the rest of our cycle journey with each other and laugh about some of the experiences we had in this short amount of time. I wish them a safe, fun, fulfilling journey of their own. Love you guys!

Leaving My Defeated Attitude Behind

Some inspirational quotes from readers after my difficult time a few days ago... 

"Here's to roads that are smooth, your cadence strong, and your spirits high. Big hugs to you in big sky country."

"May the road rise up to meet you and the wind be at your back."

"Take care and enjoy your inner strength as surprises come your way."

"You continue to be an inspiration with your ride, your beautiful blog and even more beautiful life's lessons you are sharing with us all! Be safe, keep embracing what comes, and let the tears of all kinds flow... much love."

After being dropped off at my motel by Margie and Mike in Twin Bridges and reuniting with my new tires, I dried out my clothes in the warmth and sun (yes, the weather was different 93 miles away from snow!) showered, walked into town to grab dinner and went to bed early. Woke up after a good night's rest to a happy mood, (goodbye feelings of defeat. For now, at least!) put on a new tire, packed up and got on the road. Great day riding in sunshine from Twin Bridges MT, through Virginia City, up the hill and down the hill into Ennis. So excited to ride again without the fear of my tire disintegrating. Got ice cream in Ennis (Montana Moose Moss... the BEST flavor in the world). While eating my ice cream I met a guy who said to me, "Rhode Island? That's a really small target... don't miss it!" I got a chuckle out of that one.

Eating second serving of Montana Moose Moss ice cream in two days!

Eating second serving of Montana Moose Moss ice cream in two days!

I stayed at a campground after small Cameron Montana. I was the only one there and it was remote, but boy was it gorgeous! 

MT panamara.jpg

I woke up the next day (yesterday), packed up and rode about 50 miles to Island Park Idaho. The headwinds were awful and 50 miles felt like 100+. I had some choice words for the wind and at one point, I was so upset with the wind... that I stopped, took a deep breathe, took out my iPad, put on some music and danced. Literally, danced for like 3 minutes all by myself in the middle of nowhere. I have some video... but unsure I'll post ;) It made me giggle and giggle and then I was ready to hop back on my bike and continue my ride of pedaling uphill at 4-5mph and downhill pedaling to stay at 9mph! I got to Island Park ID (20 miles or so from West Yellowstone), stopped at the little store, purchased a bottle of wine and champagne, threw it in my handlebar bag (erased photo by mistake), and showed up at the CA Crew's home! IThese are the wonderful folks that have been amazing to me. They rented two large homes in Island Park and they had family drive and fly in to join them. About 25 people. And, I was invited. As Terri said, 'You've been adopted, remember?' They also invited Natalie, Jordan and Israel to stay, 3 TransAm cyclists from TN who have been a day or two ahead of me. I arrived, and after a whiskey and Coke, jumped into the hot tub, took a shower, did laundry and sat around hearing hilarious stories from this amazing family. Catherine and George from Scotland were there and they cooked an amazing meal for about 25-30 of us. We even had carrot cake and ice cream for dessert! I'm telling you... it's been a nice break from camping in remote campgrounds. And, I'm not stinky anymore. I even shaved! ;) 

Woke up to cranberry scones, bacon and french toast. Blogging and waiting for sun to come out! Natalie, Israel and Jordan (no joke on the names!) are sticking around another day to hot tub and relax. I'm going to hop on my bike, saying farewell to the CA crew since from here, they are taking a northern route to Maine and I'm headed into West Yellowstone and beyond. We'll see how far I get today!

 


 

 

 

First Tears...

It's always so hard to be vulnerable and ask for help. There are feelings of fear and embarrassment and the ego gets in the way of asking for support. But, it doesn't mean you aren't cool, tough enough or good enough. It just means you need support. And, this trip has really tested me already. I think of all the people who have helped me in so many ways already on this trip - from hosting me in their homes, to pointing out the closest post office or ice cream store ;) to bringing me bike supplies (Rhonda and Jon) to getting me a new trailer flag (Kari).

Today, I left Wisdom knowing I had 93 miles to get to Twin Bridges, location of two packages waiting for me. With new tires. I left Wisdom at 6:30am in pouring rain, all geared up. About 10 miles into the 18 to Jackson, it started to snow on me. Like rain/snow mix. And, temp dropped. By the time I was a mile from Jackson, I was concerned about frostbite on my left foot. Even with shoe covers on. I had my helmet cover on even. I have the gear. But, I was collecting slush on everything... My thighs, arms, feet. I got to Jackson, no Rainbow People in sight (their gathering is in this area this year and as a result of up to 30,000 people coming into this area, police have told people not to pick up hitchhikers and they have warned cyclists to watch their gear and not travel alone). When people are hungry, desperate and believe they are entitled to rob, vandalize and ruin the land, it's not a safe place to be. The Jackson Hot Springs Lodge took care of me. I walked in and they offered me hot coffee, a buffet breakfast and warming up by the fire. At that point, I called for help. I was cold and nervous about continuing on and the lodge had no vacancy tonight. I could hang out here, but no rooms. And, nothing else in town but camping. And, there's currently an inch of snow on the ground. I changed into dry, warm clothes, drank my coffee by the fire, and talked to the amazing CA crew I met last week. Margie, Terri, Mike and Ray. They were coming to my rescue! I hate putting people out. It means that 1-2 of them can't ride today as a result of coming back 2 hours to grab me. But, I have to believe if they didn't want to do it or couldn't have, they would have told me so... Right? I still feel humbled, but I did it. I asked for help. Once I knew they were on their way, I broke down in tears. I was scared out there. And now I feel relieved. Between the weather (soon to warm up), being alone, Rainbow Gathering, bum tire and 93 miles to go to get to my new tires... I just had to ask for help. And someday, I'll be able to reciprocate for someone else. (See photos below)

If there was one thing that has made a huge impact over the last few years on me asking for help, sharing my 'secrets', opening up and communicating more effectively, it'd be as a result of seeing this video sent to me by my friend Therese while I was going through my divorce. It's 20 minutes. And totally worth the watch. Trust me. See "The Power of Vulnerability" by Brene Brown, http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=iCvmsMzlF7o&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DiCvmsMzlF7o

iphone-20130622111046-0.jpg
iphone-20130622111046-0.jpg
iphone-20130622111046-0.jpg
iphone-20130622111046-1.jpg

I'm Being Tested... What's the Lesson?

The afternoon of what started out as a frustrating day turned into a delightful surprise. The sun mostly came out, with bouts of sun-showers here and there. The headwind ended and I was thankful my tire issues appeared to be resolved. I've been through two Serfas tires (both were in rear), but Rhonda brought me another tire and it seems to be working great. The last Serfas is in the front and it seemed all good so far. Both the rear tires had the strangest thing happen to them... It was like they were defective. They broke down from the inside first. The guy who recently built up both my tires (two weeks before I left) feels awful about it and he's shipping me two tires- different brands. They should arrive in Twin Bridges tomorrow. They should be waiting for me when I arrive Saturday afternoon. Rhonda shipped me another as well just in case. It's absolutely ridiculous I'm having to deal with tire issues. There's no reason I should have even needed a spare for this trip, never mind having gone through two, not knowing quite yet tonight I'd realize my front Serfas is about done too.

Anyway, like I said, the headwind stopped, the sun came out and views of Trapper Peak became visible. I was happy to say goodbye to Bitterroot Valley and it's headwinds! The road went from open valley to a tighter gorge along the East Fork Bitterroot River. I made it to my destination after a 69 mile day. Physically, I felt great. It's amazing how much easier the riding is getting as my body adapts to being on the bike all day. I set up my tent fairly quickly hoping it wouldn't rain again... which it didn't. Changed clothes, washed off a little in the river and began to cook dinner. As my food heated up, I checked my bike as I do everyday and came across the same issue with my front tire. NOOOOO!!! I took a look inside and lo and behold, it's falling apart. I have no extra tires, no cell service or wifi and the hosts of the campground aren't around. So, I took my one piece of booting material, placed it into the tire and we'll see how long that will hold. If I can make it to Twin Falls, I'm set. That is two days away on my bike, over 150 miles from here... And I have no idea how long a tube will last in a tire with booting in it. I'm frustrated and confused and isolated and there's really nothing I can do. I almost wish it were a bike issue that I couldn't fix... Like truing a tire. But, no, it has to be a lame defective tire issue. I have a feeling tomorrow will be spent trying to hitchhike to Twin Bridges with all my gear. Not fun. For many reasons, including I really wanted to ride over the first passing of the continental divide. And, it's not fun hitch hiking alone. And I have a ton of gear.
So, I'm in my tent writing... And it's ccccccold tonight. I'm annoyed and so sick of having to deal with three messed up tires for half this trip so far. And, I just want to ride without worrying. But... I have to think. Be patient. Ask why. What lessons am I learning? Maybe the answer to the last question will come with time. Or, maybe it's that I have to ask for help... Although hitch hiking could be my only option and that doesn't sound like fun. Or safe. Well, I can't say it's not an adventure!!

Update: It's the morning and I've cycled 3 miles to Sula and tire seems to be holding up, for now. Eating a yummy breakfast burrito at the restaurant here to fuel up with the expectation I'll be on my bike riding over the Continental Divide today, not hitching on the back of a truck! The sun is out, I have wifi at the restaurant to let my folks know I'm alive and my belly is full. I'm not injured. I will survive. I will be back on the bike without worry that I'm wearing out yet another tire soon enough. Send good thoughts my way please...

Who Wants Ice Cream on a Day Like Today?

My day off in Missoula was productive and fun. My hosts, Jeannie and Steve (friends parents) were amazing to me. They fed me amazing home-cooked meals, let me do laundry, supporting me watching US Soccer (not many American families would support that when there are NBA playoffs and NHL games going on...! Haha! But they were great company and their home was amazingly comfortable for me. I did love seeing middle school photos of my friend around the house! (Sorry Stephanie!)
Steve dropped me off back in Lolo on the TransAm Route and I was surprised to learn that about 40 miles of my day would be on a bike path. How nice is that? Although... It was difficult to get my rhythm today and it was cold and then it started to rain so I put on my full rain gear. Including a helmet cover to keep my head warm, shoe covers, full fingered gloves, rain pants and my fav new article of clothing... My Showers Pass rain jacket. I mean, bummer about the cold and rain, but I'm not hauling this gear over mountain passes for nothing! Then... The headwind started. I've never experienced headwind like this and it took me miles to stop swearing at it and just accept it. I mean today is a slight uphill AND a bike path? I should be thankful. I pulled into Hamilton and I'm glad I didn't just stop at Subway because in the little downtown area is a great healthy-option cafe called Loft Cafe! I'm here now and enjoyed a gourmet grilled cheese- with tomato chutney, onion relish, spinach, mushrooms, brie and cheddar. And a pickle! Pickles are my #1 favorite food, if you didn't know. I'm currently drinking tea after having finished my sandwich and recharging my bike computer and cell phone. No ice cream today... too cold. Trying to warm up before my haul to Darby in 17 miles. My goal was Sula today... But this wind might win today. Another 51 miles? I might be a broken woman!

Another day, another state!

Yesterday, I left Lochsa Lodge, saying goodbye to my new friends from CA. I started up the hill to Lolo Pass and at the top got to: 

1. Change into Mountain Timezone

lolopass.JPG

2. Cross into another state- Montana! 

3. Finish the uphill for the day (all downhill into Missoula!) 

First time in Montana!

First time in Montana!

This was very exciting for me since I've never been to Montana. I think the only other states I haven't been to include North and South Dakota. It's always a sense of accomplishment when you cross another state line. It feels great.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And, look... the daisies are STILL following me. Even into MT!

daisy.JPG

I got into Missoula and I'm staying with friend's parents. Jeannie and Steve Thompson are great - their home is a welcome respite after days in the forest. They made me a delicious dinner and we watched the USA versus Honduras World Cup Qualifier game. I'm sorry I subjected two more Americans to soccer... but they enjoyed it, I'm sure.  Thrilled to see US going to Brasil in a year. Now, if I only I can catch the Timbers vs LA Galaxy game tonight somewhere... ;)

They Don't Call These Thunder Thighs for Nothin'!

Day 14

I woke up at 4:45am after a solid 8 hours of sleep. I knew today was a 60+ mile uphill and wanted to take advantage of the cool morning temperatures. The CA group was up as well and we waved saying, "See ya soon!" I loved the ride today. The temperature was perfect and I felt rested and strong. The uphill grade was super manageable and I was able to keep my speed between 11-14mph most of the day. You know you're feeling good and getting stronger when an entirely uphill day feels almost easy! My legs are getting stronger. I know, that's hard to believe. My brother Dave has called my thighs Thunder Thighs my whole life... but who's laughing now? My former personal trainer Cesar used to laugh and say, no, they are PYTHONS. I feel like I've lost a few pounds, but toned up a little too. Difficult not to on a trip like this I suspect.
My mind wandered all day but really I was in the moment enjoying the slight uphill climb along the Lochsa River.

Lochsa River. Miles and miles of this. 

Lochsa River. Miles and miles of this. 

I might be 3000 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, but this beach will do!

I might be 3000 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, but this beach will do!

The views were incredible. I went swimming and had a great picnic lunch. I knew I had the option of going about 65 miles to Powell (it looked like a few services) or climbing over Lolo Pass into MT (but that would be an almost 90 mile day). When I arrived in Powell (really only one resort), I pulled in around 2pm after the 60 mile climb hoping to get lunch. The CA crew was there (Margie, Terry, Mike and Ray) and they decided to camp there for the night. What a place! Great amenities and they let us set up our tents for free! Most people rent cabins here. We got $5 showers and ate a great meal at their adorable log cabin lodge. We all showered and Ray made stronger margaritas than last night (YUM!). The group engaged in a variety activities... checking in on Facebook (first internet in a couple of days), horseshoe playing and billiards. The CA crew has a blog and I encourage you to check it out here.

Lochsa Lodge

Lochsa Lodge

View from back of Lodge. See, I am ROUGHING it Mom and Dad! ;)

View from back of Lodge. See, I am ROUGHING it Mom and Dad! ;)

lochsahorseshoes.JPG

"We Cannot Grow Without Challenge"

“To my mind, voyaging through wildernesses, be they full of woods or waves, is essential to the growth and maturity of the human spirit. It is in the wilderness that you really learn who you are. It is in facing the challenges of the wilderness that the thickness of your wallet becomes irrelevant and your capabilities become the truer measure of your value.”
Excerpt From: Callahan, Steven. “Adrift.” Houghton Mifflin Harcourt (www.hmhco.com).

Days 11, 12, 13
Halfway to Council ID, Council to Grangeville, Grangeville to Lowell

iphone-20130614210749-0.jpg

My 80 mile day was a challenge for me. The hill in the afternoon was short, but hot. I was crabby, and a negative attitude will not in any way help you on an 80 mile day. It wasn't that I didn't want to be doing what I was doing. It was just that, well, I was crabby! The road was rough (friction slows you down), I was hot, headwinds near the reservoir were strong and I started to think about work (will I get contracts again come fall?). I knew I'd cross into Idaho, which was exciting and I felt a sense of accomplishment when I did. At the state line, I literally pat myself on the back. I enjoyed the roads by Brownlee Reservoir but about 10 miles after Oxbow, I had a large, steep grade hill to climb in 90 degree weather. It was slow going. I had some nice downhill after that climb, but 40 miles to go and it was already 3pm. 10 miles outside of Council, my destination for the day, the sky turned quite ominous. Rhonda and her husband John were meeting me in Council ID at the RV park sometime between 6-8. As I entered into Council, I saw a fluorescent green vest coming at me on the other side of the road and an extended arm waving frantically at me. I was thrilled to see Rhonda meeting me along the road on her bike when she knew I was coming. We got to the RV park 5 minutes later and the heavens opened up on us! We sat in their truck as I downed 4 pieces of pizza (ok, maybe 9!) and Rhonda's homemade cookies. I showered and as the rain ended and the rainbows emerged, we were able to set up our tents, drink some tea, catch up and crash early. I went to bed leaving my bad attitude on the last hill I climbed.

Rhonda, a colleague and good friend meets me to ride for 2 days! First rain and a double rainbow!

Rhonda, a colleague and good friend meets me to ride for 2 days! First rain and a double rainbow!

Rhonda and I met years ago when I was the Physical Activity, Nutrition & Tobacco (PANT) Coordinator in Oregon. She is the counterpart in Idaho. She has hired me to do work with their Coordinated School Health Summit in ID and we see each other a couple of times a year at meetings and conferences around the country. A few years back I chatted with her about my ride from Lincoln City to San Francisco. Rhonda did it with her sister the following summer. I was thrilled when she and John decided to make arrangements to two-car it and meet me and ride with me for two full days from Council to Grangeville ID.

We woke up after a stormy night (although cozy in our tents) and ate a big breakfast in Council. We biked our way up a gorgeous area and ate Subway in New Meadows. It was really fun to go around a hill and see Rhonda and John waiting for me. I haven't had the luxury of anyone greeting me around bends or up hills yet on this trip and it sure was nice! We had a fabulous downhill after lunch (about 30 miles) along the Little Salmon River into Riggins. Riggins welcomes you will exposed hills shooting up out of the gorge, hot weather, and trucks and trucks and more pick-up trucks parked on the side of the road fishing in the river for the day. We got to our campground on the Salmon River, showered and walked the mile back into town to eat large salads and brownie sundaes. We each ordered our own desserts... I think that was overkill, but we made a dent on most of it.

What? We each NEEDED one... (hot fudge brownie sundae)

What? We each NEEDED one... (hot fudge brownie sundae)

Whitebird Parade- an unexpected surprise as we pulled into town!

Whitebird Parade- an unexpected surprise as we pulled into town!

I woke up to the sounds of the Salmon River in the morning and we walked back into town to have some breakfast. I started drinking coffee on this trip. I hate coffee, but it's been needed (not for the caffeine, but as a diuretic...TMI? Sorry!). We'll see how long I can sustain this coffee thing. I just don't get it. I know, I know... I live in Portland and I hate coffee. Even what people call, "The Good Stuff". Yuck. After breakfast and packing up camp, we downhilled it to Whitebird and happen to get into town at the most perfect time. If we were 15 minutes later, we would have missed the 15-20 minute Whitebird Parade. We pulled in and as I parked my bike along the side of the road, I was hit with pieces of candy being thrown from multiple floats. I started talking to Hannah, a Grangeville (middle school student I'd say), who just had knee surgery after a hurdle injury during track season. She asked me about my trip and I gave her my postcard and she's already following me on Twitter! Heal up Hannah... you'll be back running again soon enough!

Whitebird 'Hill'. Rhonda counted 18 switchbacks. Quite a climb... but we all did it!

Whitebird 'Hill'. Rhonda counted 18 switchbacks. Quite a climb... but we all did it!

We did a quick PBJ stop in Whitebird, knowing we had a 10 mile, 15 or so switchback exposed mountain to climb. We started the climb and it took about 2 hours. It was awesome! What an accomplishment when we got to the top!

A few more miles beyond the hill, we arrived at our destination, John's friend George who has a great home in Grangeville. Sadly, George and his family were out of town, but we showered, and had a great home to stay in! Thank you George!! I had a beef taco and chicken enchilada at a local Mexican Restaurant and John and Rhonda crashed right after dinner. I made my tea and sat on the back patio of George's place, observing the wildlife and listening to the birds. I slept hard, woke up and said my goodbyes to Rhonda and John. It was John's first voyage bicycle touring and I think Rhonda and I got him hooked. John has about 8 months until retirement, but I couldn't persuade him to take an early retirement and just keep biking east. I'm so thrilled they took the time and made the arrangements to be with me on this trip. It was incredibly meaningful.

Daisies... they are following me across the country.

Daisies... they are following me across the country.

In Kooskia, I met Ray, Terry, Margie and Mike from San Diego and Modesto CA at the The Rivers Cafe in Kooskia. They started in Florence OR and they are riding to Maine. Mike paid for my meal (thank you!!!!). They continued their riding for today, as I wanted to catch up on my riding, but we knew we'd be in the same campground in Lowell. About 8 miles into my ride to Lowell, Ray's truck (they take turns driving a support vehicle) pulled up. They said about 3 miles ahead, there's a 7 mile section of road that is scraped up ready for paving probably tomorrow. In the meantime, Terry and Mike rode about half of it, becoming increasingly frustrated with the ruts in the road and having to pull off into gravel or grass every time a car pulled up behind them. There were cones separating both sides of the highway, so there was no room. After driving Mike and Terry passed that part of the highway, Margie and Ray came back to see if I wanted a ride. I said sure! And we loaded up my stuff. So, today was shortened by about 9-10 miles, but I got to the campground in Lowell with time to jump in the pool, catch up on writing, drink a margarita with Ray and mike and rest before two long riding days.

I haven't felt as challenged as I did on that 80 mile day however, I know there will be more days like that for a variety of reasons. I guess out of those challenges, you grow, learn, adapt, meet people, and see opportunity when things go awry. What did I learn from the other day? Patience. Sometimes I'm delayed during the day, but I happen to meet people as a result of being delayed. I feel empowered and proud of myself. More so than if I had stayed home all summer...

“Avoiding risk is not much of a goal. I am probably a bit more cautious these days, but I often remind listeners that, whether you crawl into a hole or walk a high wire, nobody gets out of here alive. We cannot grow without challenge.”
Excerpt From: Callahan, Steven. “Adrift.” Houghton Mifflin Harcourt (www.hmhco.com).