Grounded? At 38 years old?

(Updated blog entries on my trip coming once I get to Missoula tomorrow... promise! Spotty internet has lent itself to taking a break from uploading photos and even turning on my phone. It's been HEAVEN.)

When I was 8 years old my family moved 1.5 miles from a utopian, kid-filled neighborhood to the kid-free, contemporary-home street in the woods. The only way to acquire independence was by riding my bicycle. The only option to see my friends was to get on my bike, bike the very fast, steep mile and a half down a few hills and back into the neighborhood my parents took us from. Do you hear resentment? There was a little resentment on my part. But, those feelings passed as I became stronger. Physically strong enough to pedal the full mile all the way back up the steep hills home. And, as an adolescent, I knew I was in shape, good physical shape if I could make it up the driveway without stopping. Their 1/4 mile long, 8-10% grade driveway up to the house.

I can’t remember what age my parents let me bike back to the old neighborhood. Maybe when I was 12? But, I do know my mom trusted me to leave the house shortly after arriving on the school bus, walking the mile up the street, 1/4 mile up the driveway from the bus stop to see my friends. And, of course I’d have to bike all the way home, getting home by dark. By the way, these friends never came to our house - the hills were too steep! However, friends always ended up at our home when we had a dumping of snow- the driveway lended itself to amazing sled races for hours on end.

When I turned 14, I had a boyfriend named Andy who lived about 12 miles away and went to a completely different middle school a town over. We were in eighth grade. On the weekends, I depended on my parents to drive me to see him.  The only way I was to see my eighth grade boyfriend was to look at a road map (this was way before cell phones and Google maps!) and figure out how the heck to bike to his house. And, keep the scheming from my parents secret. I think Andy thought I was crazy. But, he loved that I was willing to show up at his house about an hour after I left my home at the top of a very large hill to see him.  One of the benefits of taking a 2-hour bike ride to see your boyfriend? Parents weren’t home.

Andy and I didn’t make it more than a year, so many bike trips later we broke up. I went to high school and continued to bike a couple of years until I got my license and first car. I don’t remember biking as much in high school as I did in middle school, however, when I was 15, I was fortunate to go on a teen bicycling trip to Europe for five weeks. I was introduced to bicycle touring. Carrying your gear in panniers, camping at night, cooking food by camp stove or fire, seeing the world behind no glass or partition. I was hooked. I came home many miles later, having biked through Belgium, Holland, France and England and stated to my parents, “I will someday bicycle across the country.”

I recently told my parents the Andy story and my mom couldn't believe it. She had my father get on the phone and made me re-tell it. And, when I finished, my dad chuckled and mom said, "You're grounded. I can't believe you did that!" 

Day 9 & 10 Rest and Horses

My layover day in Baker City was dreamy. I woke up, took a ride into town (hauling no trailer!) and spent some time in the public library catching up on things. I got my brother a birthday card and my dad a Father's Day card (cowboy-themed, of course), got a hot stone massage, ate a huge salad (no ice cream that day) and went back to hang out with my hosts, Julie and Wil. Julie gave me a beautiful angle she made of ceramic. I zip-tied it to my frame (see photo). I went to bed early, waking up to the smell of Julie's amazing cooking- she made me eggs, bacon and potatoes to fuel my ride! I ate, packed up and said my goodbyes to them, thrilled to have met such welcoming, warm people (see photo). My Day 10 ride was a beautiful one, maybe one of my favorite so far. I biked from Baker City to Halfway Oregon. I passed the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center after seeing ruts from wagons on the Oregon Trail. I didn't take the ride up to the Interpretive Center because I have been there before, but I'd suggest it if you're passing through. A lot of my day followed the Powder River. I had a sweet tailwind and made great time overall. I stopped briefly at a beautiful spot along the river for a PBJ sandwich and was happy to see an island of daisies in the middle of the river. Like I said, daisies are my favorite flower and they pop up everywhere along my ride. It was tempting to cross the river and head to the utopian island for a swim/reading spot, but I wanted to get over the mountain pass between Richland and Halfway earlier than later. I stopped in Richland to re-stock my water supply and started the 4 mile, 4mph climb up the hill. Up the mountain! I enjoy the climbing actually. I go slow enough that it doesn't hurt or burn... It's just unbelievably slow-going. I sing... Yesterday was "the ants go marching one by one..." I stop and eat a Gu pack, drink water, stretch, get back on and ride more. It was the first hill that I could see most of the climb, switchbacks. I felt a sense of incredible accomplishment while I turned to begin each new switchback, but I'm curious if it's mentally more challenging being able to see how much you have to climb.
At the top, I sent some texts to people on my mind saying hello and then started the 7% grade down to Halfway. I arrived at my destination, Inga Thompson's home- a retired Olympic cyclist. She now runs Lone Fir Friesian farm and invites cyclists to stay in a room above the horses in the barn. I was awed by the beauty of the location. I showered and Inga and I went into town and spent the evening drinking beer, hanging with two of her friends, John and Ken. Our conversations went from relationships, to vintage Caterpillar toys to her Friesian horses mowing hay. It was awesome and I felt like I knew these folks as long-time friends. We got back and I crashed without even moving during sleep. I awoke to the horses out in the pasture as the sun came up. I took some photos, washed up, left Inga a note and now I'm at Stockmen's eating a big breakfast in preparation for an 80-mile day including another large mountain summit!
I'm extremely excited for two things today: my first state border crossing and meeting up with my colleague and friend Rhonda Heggen, the Physical Activity, Nutrition and Tobacco Coordinator at the Idaho Department if Education, funded by CDC. She is the counterpart to my former position at the Oregon Department of Ed and we've known each other for many years. Rhonda and her husband, Jon are cycling with me for 3 days! Can hardly wait for this Coordinated School Health 'team' to ride together!!

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Banana Peels and Flattened Snakes

End of Day 7 and Day 8, Prairie City to Baker City, 65.45 miles, riding time 6:66, 10.27 avg mph, 4534 elevation gain

Got to Prairie City after an ice cream stop in John Day. Jimi, my Warm Showers host met me on his bike right as I was arriving into town which was super fun. We arrived at his beautiful home perched up on the hill overlooking the town with breathtaking views of the Strawberry Mountain range. Years ago, my ex husband and friends of ours biked around this range of mountains and it was a blast. The snow-capped tops provided a contrast to the pastures below. Jimi told me all the snow on the peeks would melt away within the next month. 

Daniel and Jimi's yummy meal. Refueling my body!

Daniel and Jimi's yummy meal. Refueling my body!

After feeling human again (shower), Daniel, Jimi's 22 year old son just recently back from a backpacking trip in Europe and Jimi cooked me an amazing meal. We sat outside on their deck enjoying the perfect weather and view. I did a load of laundry (THX Jimi!) and rested well. I woke up around 5am to the smell of a dreamy egg dish with sweet potatoes, onions, peppers and other veggies that Daniel made for breakfast. After downing that, I packed up and Jimi rode with me along the highway for a few miles until he turned around to head to work. This journey isn't necessarily about the biking. It's a big part of it, however, the people you get to chat with and especially the kind Americans that willingly take you into their home and treat you like family is a gift that I'll never take for granted. I hope when I get back to Portland, I'm able to host and reciprocate the kindness people have and will continue to give me.

Sunset, Strawberry Mtns. View from Jimi's

Sunset, Strawberry Mtns. View from Jimi's

Jimi and I, before heading out in the morning.

Jimi and I, before heading out in the morning.

I rode from Prairie City to Baker City yesterday, getting an early start. I knew I had 3 mountain passes to climb with an elevation gain of 4524 feet total. YIKES! I enjoyed the day fully. My body feels great. A little sore, but strong. Although, it was curious that there weren't ice cream trucks waiting for me halfway up each of the 3 passes (Dixie, Tipton and Sumpter). C'mon! I really could have used a Toasted Almond Ice Cream bar. I would have even settled for a Rocket Popsicle halfway up the Tipton Pass. But, alas, nothing. Hardly any cars passed me. I think about strange things while riding. Like, which knowledge/skill-for-a-day I wish I had. Yesterday, it was ornithology. It would be great to be able to identify birds along my way. Birds that flirt with me and chirp at me and follow me. The other day, I wondered why we humans love throwing banana peels out the window. I notice more brown, dried up banana peels along the road than flattened snakes. And, that's a lot!

I soaked my feet in a creek after the turn off to Sumpter and within a few miles I heard a 'POP'! How exciting, my first flat tire! Well, well... it was much more than that. My brand new tire, ordered custom from a guy who built my wheels wore completely through after a week. So, I had to pry the new tire off (not an easy task with a new tire), replace the tube and put my spare tire on. Took me about an hour. I'm very concerned why this happened (see photos in album below). Maybe I'll get some answers from you readers as to what you think did this. It looks worn, not like something cut it. Hmmm. So- I have booting material with me and I'll keep the old one for a bit, but I'm hoping I can get a new tire shipped to me in Missoula since I ride 650s. Not convenient. Frustrating in fact. 

After everything was ready to go, I had what is probably a really nice downhill into Baker City in the gorge. I say, 'probably' because it WAS beautiful, however the head winds were strong, I had to bike hard just to keep up at 10mph. But, I enjoyed it fully and ended up at my second Warm Showers host's home by 6pm. Wil and Julie are great hosts and after they fed me, we chatted most of the evening. I slept hard with dreams of picnics and food. 

Today is my first layover day. I have a massage scheduled (YES!) and errands to do. I'm in the Baker County Library- a fantastic resource for the community with tons of magazines, daily newspaper (even the NY Times!) and free wireless. Gotta love and support out local library systems folks. Super important resource in our communities. 

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Day 7, What I Left Behind and Fueling My Body

Dayville to Prairie City. 44.57 miles, riding time 3:51, 11.54 avg mph, 1650 elevation gain

In response to readers comments...
So, Garlynn asked me what got eliminated before I left. Not much- two tubes of sunblock, a bike jersey (still have 3), a long sleeve shirt. I packed really well overall but might get rid of more stuff in Baker City.
Elizabeth asked about fuel/eating along the way. I'm burning between 3000-5000 calories a day. Here's my routine. For water, I carry about 116 ounces at a time (although I could buy more if needed on stretches of road in which I need it). I fill up about 2-2.5 times a day. And, I down ice water at meals when I can.  So, I figure I'm drinking between 2-3 gallons of water a day. Someone check my math... not my best skill!! One water bottle always has a Nuun tablet in it which gives me electrolytes without the sugar. I wish I could just drink water (I hate sports drinks), but I need the Nuun enhanced water for sure. I feel the difference. I'm kind of picky about drinks anyway. I like water, tea, milkshakes (occasionally... and more so on this trip I suspect!), gin and bourbon. I don't drink soda (tonic with my gin) or juice, hardly ever. I'm sensitive to sugary drinks and bitter (which eliminates sports drink, juice, soda, wine and beer). I'd rather satisfy my sugar cravings through ice cream or dessert, not a drink. Got to pick where you get your not-very-nutrient-rich food items!
For food, breakfast is random. Sometimes it's eggs (if I'm lucky). This morning I had yogurt, chocolate milk, two Babybell cheeses, a banana and orange, knowing I'd be able to get eggs/more protein in Mt. Vernon after a warm up ride of 23 miles ;). Along the way I eat Gu if I'm working really hard (like up a hill). Vanilla is my favorite- not as sugary as the fruit flavored Gu. For lunch, if I don't have access to a town, I eat PBJ. It's perfect. If I have access to a restaurant, I either eat a burger with a side salad or a large salad with grilled chicken. Although I'm at lunch now and they serve breakfast all day, so I'm having eggs with peppers, onions, hash browns, two sausage links and rye toast. And hot tea! And ice water! Because it's a heavy lunch, dinner will probably be fish or a salad. If possible! I'm starting to realize how I feel when I tell people about my charity of choice... preventing childhood obesity. Heading into more rural areas, obesity rates are higher and I have to share what I'm doing in such a way that people don't feel threatened. I want to educate and share. With no judgement. I think abut people doing this for cancer... It's just not as politically charged. Personal, yes, could be. But not as much shame around the issue.

I'm hungry a lot, but less so then 5 days ago. I think my body is getting used to this. It's fascinating the signs your body gives you. If your lips and mouth are dry - it's kinda late... start drinking a lot of water! Even if you're 4 miles until the next town, stop, add water to your bottle from your water storage bladder (mine is a Platypus), and drink. If your hungry, it's late! Stop and eat something- even if it's a Gu package. Don't wait to feel these things. I wake up with a slight headache most days due to dehydration. I'm really good about drinking water during the day (I stop to pee at least every 30-45 min), but at night, it's hard to drink all night and get a good nights sleep. So, when I wake up, I try and catch up within the first hour to get my body regulated again. This will change due to elevation and temperature. But in this heat? I wake up dry and thirsty. I still don't have all my routines down. I have systems in place I love and will sustain and some I'll adapt and change. I'll keep you all posted on those!  (Photo is a farm outside of Dayville... It's for sale. Any takers?)

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Day 6, Ochoco... I'll be Back! 78 miles. Climbed 2 Passes

I'm just in awe of how beautiful the ride has been today. Mental note to come back to this area and hike. I got up at 6am after an intense dream startled me awake. In dream, I was trying to quickly pack up all my stuff in a hotel room to catch a train, only to see it stop, pick up passengers quickly and leave me behind. I took that to mean I better get up and start packing up camp since I had a long hill to climb and the temperature would be much nicer at 7:30am versus 10am. Good decision. I actually enjoyed climbing the 20 miles uphill to Ochoco Summit to almost 4000 feet. It wasn't as exposed and there were plenty of sections that allowed me to pick up my pace and stretch out.

I thought a lot about food and how much your eating routine shifts on a trip like this. Usually I crave certain foods at certain times of the day, but on this trip? It's so random. The other morning I got up and cooked myself lentils. It's 10:30pm and I'm in my tent eating an entire bag of baby carrots. I crave salad all the time. So, I usually eat salad at least once a day with grilled chicken- if I can find it! Food deserts are a big issue in the US. Many people put blame on personal choice around obesity issues, but the environment and access play a large role (no pun intended!). For example, check out the produce section in Mitchell, Oregon's only grocery store (photo). There were bags of carrots (where I got mine), oranges, lettuce and cabbage in a refrigerated section. But this is it for unrefrigerated fresh produce. I'd personally get bored eating these same items.

I did eat lunch in Mitchell and met 3 people originally from Rhode Island. Thanks to Don and Pat for their generous donations after meeting me today! I rode up my second pass of the day and just before arriving in Dayville, jumped into the John Day River. I know... predictable. I still haven't climbed a tree yet... It'll happen. I've been keeping an eye out for good trees.

Dayville is adorable. I love how the 2013 high school graduating class of 7 students each have their own banners attached to the street lights throughout town. The cafe was good- I ate a large salad and some pecan pie. I saved half of the pie for tomorrow sometime. Nothing like squishing a caramel pecan pie into a bike trailer. Unless it's breakfast... Again, those cravings can be random.

I'm loving the love and support I receive from the road. I get multiple texts a day from friends and family cheering me on, or telling me they love me, or asking where I am. It's great. I even received 'flowers' (a photo of daisies, my favorite) from my ex husband when he saw them on a ride today. I appreciate all the support and love! Keep it coming. It helps a lot.

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Yeah for PE Programs! Day 5, Madras to Ochoco Lake

Today was a shorter day since I left my friend/colleague's home at 9:30 and stopped at her school to visit her students. Since I'm raising $25,000 for the Alliance for a Healthier Generation (AHG), I envisioned stopping at AHG schools when I could, knowing that summer is here. Oregon isn't out of school yet so visiting Metolius Elementary School which is an AHG school provided a great opportunity. Lola teaches K-5 PE full time and for those that aren't aware... This is truly a commitment on the part of her school district. Elementary PE teachers are being cut all over this country in response to demands placed on administrators around certain accountability measures... Including test scores in reading, writing and math, attendance and behavior metrics (referrals, suspensions, expulsions). A lot of the work I do nationally is around health and physical education, programs disappearing as a result of federal mandates and ridiculous educational expectations. When I taught 7th grade health, I had students who came to school hungry, homeless, even pregnant and I was supposed to raise their reading scores? Really? Ok, not all students have basic survival need issues (although, sadly, many do) but they may be dealing with parents going through a divorce or maybe the students themselves are being bullied... all these things affect learning. We need more student support programs & quality health education programs (which have changed since we were students), that focus on skills like communication, advocacy, analyzing influences, decision making, goal setting, accessing valid/reliable information and self management. Quality health education is NOT reading chapter 11 in a book on suicide prevention and answering 4 questions at the end of the chapter. It's being able to determine where to get suicide support for yourself or someone you know in your community. Which bus to take (if applicable) and what hours the office may be open. Or what the hotline number may be.
Ok, enough about work...
Weather was hot and it's amazing how my major decisions during a day go back to food, water and shelter. Will I have enough water to last until the next town (preparation needed)? Where do I want to stay tonight? Do I have options? I'm hungry again? How can that be? Oh! I've burned 2300 calories and it's 11am. Many wind turbine parts passed me today and I'm not sure why, but seeing the arm of a wind turbine on a huge truck is somewhat eerie. They are such massive man-made constructed items. Something about seeing a part of this huge structure is both scary, yet impressive.
I spent a ton of time in Prineville today. I met up with two guys on summer break from Fletcher School at Tufts. They decided to bike from the Oregon coast back to Boston. The three of us had lunch at a yummy cafe (I was craving a huge salad!), and we said our goodbyes... I was going to hang a little longer in Prineville and they are on a fast 7 week trip across the US. I got a milkshake, wrote some thank you notes for donations that have come in and at the post office, I met Joe who told me, "There are two types of people in this world. Those that are chicken shit and those that have balls. I think I know what type you are." It was awesome and hilarious. I got him on voice memo repeating it, but unfortunately when repeated, he was much more PC in his response. "No one is gonna mess with ya. Two kinds of us in life, those that sit down and let the world go by and then there are very few of us that accept a challenge and go forward and never look behind. Seize the day. Now, I gotta give you a hug baby." Joe turns 80 next month. When he started chatting with me, I thought... I have to get on the road. I'm hot, tired and want to get to camp. And then I remember what my brother wrote me before I left, "Its the journey, not the destination." So I listened and talked and I'm proud of myself for giving Joe 20 minutes of my time today. He's one of the many amazing Americans I will continue to meet along this journey.

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Days 3 &4

Day 3, Portland to Still Creek Campground (just beyond Government Camp on Mount Hood), 59.79 miles, Elevation gain 5004 feet, Avg speed 8.99 mph, Riding time 6 hours

For ride date from Days 3 & 4, go to my Riding Days- Stats page.

Breakfast at Tin Shed, Portland Oregon

Breakfast at Tin Shed, Portland Oregon

Sitting in my tent, drinking tea and writing. I have Still Camp Campground just beyond Government Camp completely to myself. Life is good. Great, actually. Started my day at Tin Shed on Alberta Street in Portland with a group of friends. No bill came. Instead, the server told us my parents called and paid our bill. So, we called mom and thanked her. At the end of the conversation, she reminded me to use the bathroom before I left. I loved it.

Springwater Corridor Trail, Portland to Boring Oregon.

Springwater Corridor Trail, Portland to Boring Oregon.

Spent about 15 miles on the Springwater Corridor Trail into Boring Oregon (yes, real name of the town). Then, hopped onto Highway 26. After a stop at Joe’s Donuts, I headed up the mountain. The lupine and daisies are out in full force. Daisies are my favorite flower. I stopped to pick a few and made myself a daisy necklace that lasted about an hour until it wilted and fell off.

End of Day 3- almost to Still Creek Campground!

End of Day 3- almost to Still Creek Campground!

The weather was beautiful but as I got closer to the final 8 miles, it got hotter and the climb got harder. I started to feel the elevation gain since Portland is basically at sea level and I was headed to 4000 feet. I took it slow, stopped often, took deep breaths and drank a lot of liquids. Once I got to Government Camp, Mount Hood Brewing was calling my name. I ate a huge salad, chatted with some folks and headed to my campground.

I got my second ‘swim’ in for the day. I say ‘swim’, because the water is frigid, coming off Mount Hood from winter snow pack. But, it’s refreshing (until ice cream headache sets in) and worth the sponge bath at the end of the day. I hate sticking to my sleeping bag liner due to sweat and sunblock.

Day 4, gorgeous views in my rearview mirror

Day 4, gorgeous views in my rearview mirror

I think knowing Highway 26 like the back of my hand is NOT helpful when climbing hills on a bike and hauling weight. I know every turn, when it gets steep and when it flattens out I know when it’s a double lane or single. Highway 26 brings memories of teaching snowboarding at Timberline Ski Resort on Saturdays many years ago. It brings memories of my rehearsal dinner at Wildwood Recreation area and my wedding at Timberline Lodge. Happy memories, but many other emotions since my marriage ended.  I feel good, but all the memories are quite vivid. I’m looking forward to unchartered territory that holds no memories. Although part of grief and growing is feeling. No numbing. Processing and coming to peace with the journey I’ve chosen to take.

I feel good, although tired and sleep is calling me. I’m cozy in my tent and looking forward to another 60-ish mile day to Madras.

Day 4

It was a hot day. I expected heat, but not in Oregon this early. I spent a lot of time trying to quiet my mind from saying all the things I wished. I don't want my trip framed in what I didn't have or what conditions weren't there. For example, wishing it were 10 degrees cooler or that I had ice in my water bottle. Re-frame. It's not raining, it's beautiful out and the views, although uphill are breathtaking. ;)

Mid-moring I passed the 45th Parallel, halfway between the equator and north pole. 

Swim spot! And, the start of many memories of rafting trips with friends in previous years!

Swim spot! And, the start of many memories of rafting trips with friends in previous years!

The desert welcomed me with a gorgeous view of Mount Jefferson and the smell of sagebrush. I said goodbye to the butterflies, daises and green, lush environment of western Oregon. Sadly, I lost the top half of my flag pole and Road to Rhode flag on the fast downhill into Warm Springs, but I realized it too far down that steep hill! The heat was intense and I couldn't wait to jump into the Deschuttes River at Warm Springs Boat Launch. Which I did and I think about 6 people though I was crazy. The water was cold- but felt wonderful. After cooling down my body temp and quick nap, I was on my way up a long, winding, hot steep hill out of Warm Springs to Madras. Got to my friend Lola and Mark's wonderful home with amazing views of Jefferson, Three FIngered Jack, Three Sisters and Mt Bachelor. They own 250 acres and grow alfalfa, garlic, carrots, spearmint and blue grass. Most of their crops are for seed. Lola and Mark took me to a wonderful Mom and Pop Mexican restaurant and when we got back to their home, there were wonderful views of the sun setting behind Jefferson. Breathtaking! Mark made me his version of a Peanut Buster Parfait (Dairy Queen) and I slept like a log.

Mark making me his version of Dairy Queen's peanut buster parfait!

Mark making me his version of Dairy Queen's peanut buster parfait!

Lola is an elementary PE teacher in Metolius right down the street and after I get myself away from this computer, I'm going to pack up and stop at her school and say hi to her students. Her school is an Alliance for a Healthier Generation school- the organization I'm raising $25,000 for... so it'll be great to stop in at school before summer has begun everywhere!

 

End to a great day- sunset from Lola and Mark's home, Mt Jefferson

End to a great day- sunset from Lola and Mark's home, Mt Jefferson

Today is FINALLY here

I'm buzzing. Every cell in my body is buzzing with excitement. I woke up after only 5.5 hours of sleep ready to go. I'll crash later. Although, I didn't hop out of bed. I kept my eyes shut and enjoyed the warmth of my insanely dreamy linen sheets. Hoping that the sleeping bag liner I purchased will provide as much comfort day in and day out. I feel like I'm about to sing in my 6th grade play. Or, that I got asked to prom by the guy I crush. This is adrenaline. This feels amazing. I'm emotional though. Tears have come easily the past few days as I've said goodbye to friends and colleagues... mostly because I can't believe the amount of love and support I've felt. Having people behind you in any situation, whether a large goal or through a difficult time is what life's about. But, I know it's me too. I need to believe in me. I believe I can do this. It's just one foot in front of the other as much as believing I can do this.

Alright- less time in front of a screen. Time to shut down the home computer, fuel my body at Tin Shed  and bike east. Here we go...

 

It's just what I'm supposed to be doing

You ever feel like it's the right decision? The right thing at the right time? I feel that way tonight, the night prior to my departure across the country. It's funny, I'm not nervous or scared. Just excited for sunrise tomorrow.  Although I have a dozen things to do tonight before I get into my cozy bed. If I don't get enough sleep tonight I can stop at that park in Sandy Oregon along 26 and take a nap on the grass and enjoy this amazing weather we are having! It's all good.

I think what I'm thinking about most right now is my family. I feel so fortunate to have parents who embrace my adventurous spirit. They know I'm no slacker. They've heard me talk about this dream for years. And, I've heard multiple times how proud they are of me. That feels good hearing. Even at 38. And, I think of my brother, Dave, who has taught me to live every day like it's your last. His life experiences have taught him that you never know... so, embrace the people in your life that care and respect you the most. Be bold. Dave's wanderlust travels years ago left me envious. And, now it's my time. Although I do wish Dave and his amazing wife Cassia could come with me, this is my time and dream.

So, I just want to say thank you to Mom and Dad and Dave and Cassia. When I have a bad day, or lose opportunities, or people come and go from my life... you guys are my rock. I always have my family. I love you. 

Second to last night

I'm so trying to write regularly, but man, leaving for 3 months is a lot of work. And, I had work today. I was in heels for two meetings thinking if I sprain my darn ankle two days before my cross country journey because of my heels, I'm not going to be happy.

I'm ready, but I'm not. I mentally ready. Physically ready. But tomorrow is going to be a whirlwind. I have to get to a bike shop to get a few more items, go to my last personal trainer appointment (Aaron... you rock!), write thank you notes to the people who have donated in the past few days (thank you!!), re-pack and remove some items, do my last load of laundry, clean my space here at a friends, charge all my devices, ship a box to my parents of clothes- for when I arrive in Rhode Island (don't really want to hang out for a week in bike shorts),  drop a box of professional clothes off at friends in case I have a work engagement I need to fly to over the summer (they'll ship me my clothes to a hotel), store my car and go to book club to discuss Adrift, by Steven Callahan.​ I leave Wednesday after a group of friends meet for yummy Tin Shed breakfast at 7am. I leave directly from Alberta Street... how Portland is that?

How am I feeling? Tired. Busy. I wish I could be in the moment, but typing this is the most I've been in the moment for awhile. My birthday/send-off party was a blast (see photos below). I feel loved and supported. Everyone keeps asking if I'm nervous. No- I think I'll remember how to ride my bike. How am I feeling? EXCITED. I feel like this is what I'm supposed to be doing.

I'm getting into bed now- there's still light, but I want to savor every moment in my pajamas and bed before I leave.

(Click on the photo to see the next photo!)​

Item List

Here we go... although I have a feeling about 15 items on this list (pillow, non-bike shorts, therma-rest chair) may get eliminated!​

Toiletries/Meds
• Travel washcloth
• Chamois (towel)
• Nyquil tablets, cough drops
• Aleve
• Contact lenses and case
• Contact solution
• Benadryl
• Sudafed
• Tums
• Instant ice pack
• Bandaids
• Gauze
• After-­‐bite
• Ace bandage
• Iodine tincture
• Asthma inhaler
• Sheet of moleskin
• Eye glasses
• 1 small container of Woolite
• Bodylotion
• Sunblock
• Eye drops
• Neosporin
• Cortizone
• Insect repellent
• Hand sanitizer
• Antifungal cream
• Chamois butter and glide
• Travel sewing kit
• Qtips
• Toothbrush, paste, floss
• Dr Bronner’s soap
• Tissue packs
• Razor
• Chapstick
• Hair ties
• Nail clippers
• Nail brush
• Comb
• Deodorant
• Gold bond power
• Safety pins (2)

Clothing
• Baseball hat
• Charm bracelet with charms/beads from 22 friends/family
• Fleece pants
• Leg warmers
• Arm warmers/sun protection (light, white)
• 1 neck gator
• 1 knit hat
• Bike gloves
• 2 sports bras
• 1 regular bra
• Bathing suit
• 3 pairs of bike shorts
• 1 pair regular shorts
• 1 regular shirt
• 3 bike short-­‐sleeved jerseys
• 1 bike long-­‐sleeved jersey
• 1 dry fit pullover with hood
• 4 pairs of socks
• 3 pairs underwear
• 1 pair linen pants (travel)
• 1 pair lycra pants
• 1 pair gloves (full fingered)
• Down jacket
• 1 sundress
• Crocs
• Bike shoes
• Flip flops

Tools/Gear
• 2 water bottles
• 2 platypus bladders
• 1 tea infuser mug
• Garmin Edge 810 bike computer, cord, power supply
• Solar pack and cord
• Camera (Canon S95) and cord and battery charger
• MacBook Air, cord, pouch
• iPhone, cord, ear-­‐buds dry­‐fit case
• Nook, cord, power supply
• iPod, ear-­‐buds
• Trans-­‐Am Maps
• Cairn Biz cards, Road to Rhode postcards and stickers
• Stamps, 2 biz checks, 2 personal checks
• Copy of license, credit cards and insurance cards on phone
• Helmet with mirror
• Rain jacket and pants
• 1 U-­‐lock and 1 cable lock with padlock
• Camping pillow
• Sleeping bag with liner
• 2 Trailer tubes
• Can opener
• Tent
• 4 spokes (two sizes)
• Sunglasses (interchangeable lenses)
• Gorilla pod
• 1 pen and 1 pencil (mechanical)
• Bike tubes (6)
• 1 extra tire
• 4 CO2 cartridges and adapter
• Bike pump
• Patch kits
• Bike tool
• Tire levers
• 2 hand warmers and 2 foot warmers
• 1 pant leg tie
• 10 rubber Bands
• 2 bungee cords
• 6 Zip ties
• Pepper Spray
• Hand held foam roller
• 1 Therma-­‐rest and patch kit
• 1 rope, 4 clothespins
• Therma-­‐rest chair
• Carabiner
• 1 whistle
• 1 compass
• 1 thermometer
• 1 backpack
• 3 bike lights (2 rear, 1 front)
• Handlebar tape
• 4 toe straps (to secure things)
• Extra 9 speed Shimano chain
• Chain Lube
• Spoke wrench
• Extra 5 and 6 mm bolts
• Pedal wrench
• Extra brake pads
• Extra shift and brake cables
• 2 bandanas
• 1 rag
• 1 rain helmet cover
• 1 pair rain booties
• 1 head lamp
• 1 Find Me Spot (ICE Device)
• 1 watch
• Camp stove
• Fuel for camp stove
• Lighter
• Salt/pepper
• 1 Leatherman
• Cooking pot set
• Sugar
• Olive Oil (little container)
• Travel size spatula
• Spoon and fork
• Iodine tablets
• First night’s meal
• Extra pair shoelaces
• Tea
• 2 energy bars
• 12 Vanilla Gu
• 5 containers of Nuun (electrolyte/energy drink tablets)
• 1 plastic map holder
• 2 Sharpie markers (one with duct tape rolled on it, one with electrical tape rolled on it)
• 1 flash drive

Scoring Guide/Rubric for Road to Rhode

Many of my colleagues around the country know that I'm a little obsessed with assessment in the classroom. It all started in 6th grade. No joke. I didn't realize it started then, but I recently found a journal from my 6th grade school year that had a rating system designed to assess my classmates personalities. It's completely embarrassing (and a bit mean) although if I weren't leaving on this bike trip in a week, I'd have that journal accessible (not in storage) and would share a photo of a page from it.  ​

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But, really, professionally, I realized assessment was a passion of mine when I was fortunate enough to be selected as one of eighteen school health professionals nationally to revise the 2007  K-12 National Health Education Content Standards.​ I was flown into Atlanta many times over two years to work with an exceptional group of school health education experts working collaboratively on the document. I was assigned to write the Assessment chapter with two other peers. Now, I understand that at this point, many of you reading this are starting to yawn. Maybe feeling like folding laundry or doing the dishes or even going to the dentist sounds more exciting than student assessment. But not to me! I'm passionate about whether a teacher is appropriately and effectively assessing kids learning and growth. It makes my heart beat faster (with love) when an educator develops criteria and shares it with students on the things they should know and be able to demonstrate in the classroom!

I'll stop there to save you from poking your eyes out with a fork.

So, as educators, we strive for students to transfer their learning from the classroom to every day life. And, I want to model that. The past few years, I've been transforming this amazing superpower skill of mine for developing what we call in the education world, "scoring guides" or "rubrics" to life. I have scoring guides I've developed to assess trips I've taken with others, scoring guides that assess what a good workout in the gym might look like, how to find a good "Cheers" bar, where "Everybody Knows Your Name"... and so on. 

As I awoke this Sunday morning (ok, now I'm demonstrating just how obsessed and NERDY I really am), ​I realized I haven't come up with a rubric yet for Road to Rhode! How have I missed developing this essential document that helps set clear, consistent criteria with categories on what's most important for me on this journey? How have I forgotten that it will help me fulfill the hopes and dreams and even experiences I have? I guess I know what I'll be working on my final week home... my official Road to Rhode Scoring Guide. Stay tuned.

"Picture 1979, high gloss lips, dolphin shorts, Izod Lacoste, rockin' a teddy bear charm necklace age 12 riding a skateboard with two tone Vans."​

​A few friends asked me months ago if they could give me something to bring on my trip. And, I thought about it and was concerned about dragging things that took up weight and space with me across the country. So, I envisioned this idea of a charm bracelet. And, waalaa! Look what I have now?

Bracelet made from charms and beads from 21 close friends and family members! Including 2 I purchased for myself.​

Bracelet made from charms and beads from 21 close friends and family members! Including 2 I purchased for myself.​

Amanda made her charm, from a piece of vintage clock, stamped "TRUE" on it and added smokey quartz for protection. Steph purchased her orange glass bead in Nairobi recently, Oliver's dog tag is on there, Bonny gave me the ship's wheel to remind me I'm steering my own ship. Many others that have significant stories or meaning to those that gave them to me. It's a bit bulky and I won't see wildlife if I wear it (it's a bit loud), but, all these people are with me. Especially during the times I'm ready to, well, I'm not even going to say the word!

Some things people said to me or wrote when they sent their bead/charms include...​

"Here are 3 beads. All imperfect, which reminds us that the world is an imperfect place, but YOU are making a difference."​

"As you begin your journey, keep in mind you are loved & supported. I am here for you anytime you ​need encouragement to keep going."

"Picture 1979, high gloss lips, dolphin shorts, Izod Lacoste, rockin' a teddy bear charm necklace age 12 riding a skateboard with two tone Vans."​

"Lotus Flower Charm represents: You are always the same age inside. Self-trust is the first secret of success. Perhaps I am stronger than I think."​

"I know how hard you have been training and planning for this day so ​remember that the adventure is "in the journey and not the destination".

In between time

So, I finished my first leg (Oregon Coast to Portland, 100 miles), but now I wait until the first week in June to leave Portland. That is because I have a work commitment in Little Rock for Clinton Foundation's Health Matters Initiative and my send off party June 2, also my 38th birthday. This time back in Portland has proved a bit challenging this week. Not only did we say goodbye to our 12 year old Rottweiller, Oliver, but I feel in between worlds right now and it's not easy. I am ready to go!

I have a final bike fitting, training rides, a few more trips to the bike shop for supplies and an appointment with a bike mechanic to take a good look to make sure everything is ready to go!​ Three weeks... I can do this.

©Michael Floyd

©Michael Floyd

Day 1, Fort Stevens to Big Eddy/Vernonia

I awoke abruptly at 4:15 am to my alarm going off. After dreams of Oliver, my dog who isn't for this world much longer, I tried to get up. Had I REALLY decided to do this? Bike across the country? Yup. I did.​

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I checked my phone and saw that my parents sent me this email and it reminded me of all the people cheering me on. And, I remembered that I didn't HAVE to get up at 4:15am usually on my trip. It's just that this morning, first day of my trip, my friend Mike was going to stick with me and capture the experience and day in photographs. 

When we got to Shipwreck Beach and there wasn't any sign of sunrise other than a dull, flat gray light. But, we got out on the beach, took photos of my dipping my tire into the ocean and I started my first 10 miles back to Astoria. We had breakfast at The Columbian Cafe and I continued on my way.

First breakfast, The Columbian Cafe

First breakfast, The Columbian Cafe

My next big stop would be 49 miles down the road at The Birk, an awesome Pub in Birkenfeld, Oregon. Mike caught up with me at that point and while I was ordering a burger at the bar, the guys sitting there were making fun of my ziplock wallet. So, I told them what I was doing. One said, "You're doing WHAT?"

After resting an hour or so, I was on my way, the last 14 miles to my campground. I got to Big Eddy, set up camp and Pam and Chuck Wood, camp hosts invited me for berry pie. How could I say no to that? After biking 63 miles? ​

It was a perfect first day. Sunny, mix of terrain, good food. Both my equipment and body felt great!

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Day Two, 3/11 Vernonia (Big Eddy) to Portland

After ten hours of perfectly deep sleep,  Pam and Chuck invited me for breakfast and I figured ham, eggs and homemade bread sounded a heck of lot yummier than a pop-tart! After a delightful breakfast with them, thinking, "Will I be treated this well my entire trip?", I was on my way. I rode 46.5 miles to Portland and I felt strong. I can do this. I ended my first leg mid-day Saturday and it was back to normal weekend life.

It was incredibly helpful to do this first leg a few weeks prior to my Portland, headed east, departure the first week in June.​ My trailer was fully loaded and my equipment and bike felt great (so did this 37, almost 38 year old body!)!

Pam and Chuck Wood, gracious hosts at Big Eddy Campground, outside of Vernonia, Oregon.

Pam and Chuck Wood, gracious hosts at Big Eddy Campground, outside of Vernonia, Oregon.

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Day Before the Start, 5/9

I'm anxious and excited and nervous and proud of myself all wrapped into one. Mike Floyd, a friend and photographer, and I left Portland mid- afternoon May 9 to head west towards Fort Stevens (Oregon coast). We drove the route I'd bike the next day to scout out how cycling over the coastal range may be. We didn't really comment on the hills (!), but instead, we talked about the shape the pavement was in, how much shade there was and how breathtakingly beautiful Oregon is. We scouted Astoria and Fort Stevens after a yummy meal at Fort George Brewery (no beer for me) for photo ops the next day. The evening on Shipwreck Beach was perfect. Warm-ish, low tide and hardly another human in sight. We actually took some photos for about 30 minutes (see my iPhone photos here- professional photos on their way!) and then headed to Mike's friends home in Cannon Beach who graciously gave Mike a key. What a gorgeous home to stay in for free the night before I started this journey. We sat by the fire drinking tea, chatting about relationships, goals, and trying to figure out how the heck my Garmin Edge actually works.

Sadly I heard from my ex-husband that our amazing Rottweiler of 12 years, Oliver is ready to go. Jered was so kind to call and tell me that after this first part of my ride, on Sunday, I am welcome to spend time with Oli, snuggle with him once more and come say my goodbyes.

I fell asleep thinking about all the joy, laughter and love Oliver has brought to our life.

This first part of my journey is dedicated to Oliver.

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Keep your rules off my trip!

So, it's fascinating how many people have their own ideas about my cross country bike trip. Friday and Saturday of this week I start the first leg of my journey. Just Astoria (coast) to Portland. Two days, about 100 miles. I'm going with a friend, Mike Floyd, who is also going to photograph the beginning of my journey. A few people I've mentioned this to have said, "Cheating!" in response to my starting the first leg this week. I'm really confused as to why doing the first leg of my journey a few weeks prior to my official departure date out of Portland is cheating? I mean, I'm still riding the entire 4087 miles from coast to coast. Do people assume I'm not going to be taking a day off a week for laundry, rest, sight-seeing?

I have work commitments until beginning of June. I hope to leave the first week of June... from Portland. I'll have the Astoria to Portland portion completed. And, doing this week's ride will give me an opportunity to test out my fully loaded trailer two days in a row and camp in my tent and new sleeping bag. So- if you're going to put your rules on my trip... let's see you do this ride!

Meaningful words from donors; aka friends, family, loved ones

As people support my ride and donate, they have the opportunity to post a note to me. Here's what I've received so far. I will take these words and notes of inspiration with me ​on my journey. I couldn't do this without all the love and support I've received. THANK YOU!

xoxo,
Jess

Written by me when I donated to my own journey: Dedicated to all my former 7th grade students who struggled in school as a result of being overweight.​

Kick Butt Jess!!! -Koko Hunt
Zoom zoom zoom! Jess rides her bike to the moon!​ - David Nadelberg
You are one of the heroines and the effort couldn't hope for a better champion. You go, girl! - David Crandall
Impressive website, impressive venture - Kari Stuhmer
Walk the talk and live the dream :D - Dawn Graff-Haight
You continue to inspire me as you share your life journey. Have a blast! - Cathy Corkery
I'm SO proud of you! Enjoy! We love u! XOXO - Julie Roth
Jess, what a way to enhance the values of humanity. You are a special person adding immense value to the world. Wishing you a safe trip. - Brian LaVere
Go Jess! So proud and excited for you ... what a great cause! - Debra Hopkins
Go get 'em.... - David Wiley
Thank you for being a champion for children's health and for your support and friendship! - Marissa Rathbone
Yay! Have fun, good luck, and hope there are many pickles to be eaten along the way. - Jen Gabriel
You're on the rhode to nowhere! - Jen Kilcoyne
Go get 'em Jess. You're the best! - Paul and Susie Levine
Best wishes for a successful ride!! - Wendy and Carl Levine
Good luck, Jess! Can't wait to hear road stories! - Frances Botsford
Have a great ride! If you take the Great Allegheny Passage let me know, as we have a cottage in Confluence PA. Lots of through bikers mix it into their route. - Ryan McGee
You rock!!! you go girl!!! go! go! go! pedal!!! - Vicki Crawford
Way to go Jess! - Hilary Baker
So proud of you...and grateful! - Ginny Ehrlich
Go Team Jess! and keep the rubber side down. - Lynne Mutrie
Go Jess! - Marina Merrill
Go Jess! We look forward to following along! - JoEllen and Jay Falk
Good Luck Jess! This sounds like such an exciting adventure - enjoy! -Kyle Lafferty
You are awesome!! - Nicole Walker
Good luck Jess. Great cause and really cool thing your doing here. You need any volunteers? I have 3 girls who will be watching!!! - Harris Schwartzberg
Jess you are inspiring! I can't wait to hear the details on your ride. - Laurie Bechhofer
Hi Jess - We are proud to support you and your journey to make kiddos healthier. Love, Nick, Liz and Ida
Jess, You are awesome. I won't be able to see you off in Portland after all but we'll be thinking of you. Love, Peter and Nancy
A ride in stride - may you celebrate each day for you are doing it - bringing a dream to life. Very inspiring. - Kate Link
Go Jess. Love your spirit! - Susan Turchin
Go, Jess! Can't wait to hear about all your adventures on the road. - Maesie Speer
Here's your kick-off gift, Jess. I look forward to following your progress! - Leslie Griep
May the potholes be few and wind be at your back. Will love to hear the story. - Pete Hunt
You go girl! What a goal! Of course, I have no doubt that you will achieve it. I only hope one thing has changed since your ride across Europe -- you WILL be wearing a helmet this time! - Lisa Barrios
I love Jessica Lawrence she is one of the most powerful women I know. Be safe while your on the ride. You impress me and inspire me daily! - Dana Griggs
Love you Jess. Ride on! - Isabelle Barbour
Glen and I went to HHS with your Mom. So happy we have reconnected through FB and found out about this amazing journey you are taking. - Maureen Olsen
Jessica, Happy Trails! Enjoyed partnering with you, best of luck in biking (and in love). Stay healthy! - Kay Zimmerli
A wonderful organization and a great cause.....Best of Luck to you!! - Hiza Family
Go Jess!!! I love this cause and the boys and I will keep track of your adventure--be safe:) Love, Anne
Good luck Jess Best regards, Eileen and Michael Friedman






Ice Cream Truck

It's here! Finally! The first day of the season I hear the ice cream truck's annoying musical jingle in my NE Portland neighborhood. It brings back the memory of each year at this time hearing those musical notes and recognizing the feeling of annoyance (that darn song!) and relief that we've made it through another wet, cloudy winter in the Pacific Northwest.

Today, after a lazy morning working on my laptop in bed, I motivated to walk to Costello's Travel Cafe to focus on a contract that I had a lot of writing to catch up on. As I walked home after a few hours in the 75 degree (really?!?) weather, I heard the familiar jingle. The warmth and smell of spring flowers brought a huge smile to my face. This year, that annoying jingle made me think about how many ice cream trucks I may come across this summer in small towns across America. It reminded me how truly fortunate I am to be healthy enough to take 3 months and cycle across the US. I never indulge in an ice cream from the ice cream truck. But you know what? This summer during my trip if I have the opportunity I will indulge. I mean, why not?