The Octopus' Garden

Jeffrey City. All boarded up and deer running the 'town'.

After a wonderful night's rest in Lander and a fairly easier bike ride, I got to Jeffrey City by 2:30pm yesterday after a nice short 56 mile day. So, Jeffrey 'City' has about 30 inhabitants and it's basically a ghost town. It's filled with abandoned homes and buildings and deer in the streets. There are even eery abandoned barracks from uranium mining days. I started to worry about where I'd stay. I thought there was camping there, but alas, I couldn't find anything. Then I saw the Split Rock Bar. I saw two other bicycles, fully loaded. I breathed a sigh of relief. I walked in and there was one guy at the bar, one behind the bar and two cyclists. I introduced myself to them after walking through the squeaky screen door (when everyone looks at you). Tina and Todd will be celebrating their 25th wedding anniversary this summer on this trip and Tina, her 50th birthday, in Dayville Oregon! They are cycling from St Louis to the Oregon coast. They were both laid off from their jobs and seem to be embracing the opportunity versus stressing about it. Good for them! They live in the Charlotte NC area. Tina and Todd have also completed the Oregon coast ride to San Francisco, so we compared stories.

Byron's Trailer for cyclists. He lives in the building in back. No running water or electricity in either.

We decided we were in this together and we'd find a place to stay, which seemed like an adventure. But, at least I wasn't alone. We started drinking Bud Light (not my typically drink of choice... but Bud Light just seem to fit the ambience and experience. After two beers, I was pretty buzzed (low tolerance), we walked across the street to see Byron, who was recommended by the guys in the bar to talk with regarding a place to stay. Byron is a very talented pottery maker (44 years old), but currently drinking more than he's throwing clay. We walked into his home/studio/shop and he was sitting on a chair staring into space drinking an enormous glass bottle of whiskey from the bottle. Byron, a very generous person, offers his trailer (named the Octopus' Garden by the artists who painted it originally in Cabo San Lucas) in front of his home/studio/shop to cyclists coming through. There's a couch (where I slept) and a bed (for Tina and Todd). It was, well, kind of safe. His yard was covered in broken bottles and random other garbage. Or treasures, depending on what you may need. Broken cell phones, gardening tools, toothbrushes, knives, spoons. You know, a very kid-friendly place. No running water even.

Byron, Todd and Tina. Boom box blaring classic rock

We ate dinner back across the street at the bar and Byron tried to persuade us to participate in many different common local Jeffrey City activities... such as:

Going into the abandoned barracks and playing hide and go seek
Throwing clay on the wheel and making some pottery
Having a bon fire
Smoking pot

Being the responsible cyclists we are, we declined his offers for such fun and crashed out in the trailer by 8:30pm. We all slept... well, kinda. No shower, hot and sticky and some mosquitoes. We all woke up with the sun at 5pm ready to get out of this incredibly surreal place. We packed up, said our goodbye's to each other and went our separate ways (Tina and Todd west and myself east).

I biked to the Annalope Cafe, in Muddy Gap and had a nice big breakfast. The owner, Tebra (yes, with a 'T') is closing her cafe this week on July Fourth. Issues with the owner of the building and land. It'll be a long stretch for cyclists without food along this route without this cafe being open. After hearing about my trip and trying to raise $25,000 to address childhood obesity, Tebra donated my meal to me (how awesome is that??), but I did leave her a good tip.

I saw a real cowboy and a cowgirl herding cattle on my ride...

And, I met Patty, a teacher from Portland OR and her dog Digit.

Donna and Digit from Portland OR. Check out that basket for Digit!

And, I crossed the Continental Divide for my 7th & 8th times! I'm currently in Rawlins WY at Kevin and Lucy's home- warmshowers.org folks. More to come on their amazing hospitality. I'll probably be offline for a few days through WY/Northern CO. Just a heads up.

No Daisies in Wyoming

Yesterday's bike ride from Dubois WY to Lander was a bit warm and harder than expected. I got a later start (about 10:30am) to spend some time updating my blog and completing other tasks I need to do every few days (I'll blog about that at some point!). I shouldn't have left so late. Sometimes the cycle maps for the ACA Trans Am route are deceptive. The maps are accurate, don't get me wrong... but of course they are a birds eye view and so all the little steep uphills aren't on there. Even though it appears as though the entire day will be a slight downhill, it wasn't. And, take into consideration the headwind. 74 miles of hard biking in heat. Exposed roads. I loved it, don't get me wrong... but my body was just out of it and exhausted by 8pm last night.

Luckily, most of the route for the first half of the day was along the Wind River. I stopped at a beautiful lunch spot yesterday and I may or may not have jumped into the water and I may or may not have worn clothes. Your guess...

When I got into Lander, I knew there was free camping for cyclists in the city park, and I heard from other cyclists on the road going the opposite direction that there were a great group there... but I couldn't do it. I was exhausted and needed my own space. Good thing because I got in, showered, walked across the street to some diner-like place and ate a huge salad. Came back into room and could hardly take my clothes off to get into bed. Wow- that ride exhausted me! More than any other days so far. The heat. I think I need to keep my mileage at this elevation and in this heat to 50-70 miles/day versus 70-80. So- I'm up early today and I'll get on the road with less wind (not much wind early mornings) to get cooler weather this morning and hopefully take a long break during the day (something I didn't do yesterday).

Of course in my last blog post I wrote about hitting 41 mph, which I KNEW my parents would read even though I wrote, "Don't tell my mom and dad." Here's my mom's response. Love it:

"Downhill at 41 MPH- WOW…glad you told me after…like Dave [my brother] swimming with sharks and bungee jumping in South Africa.

XXMOM"

I haven't seen daisies (my favorite flower for those of you tuning in for the first time) in Wyoming yet. They led the way through Oregon, Idaho and Montana. And, daisies showed up in the most choice locations when I needed a push or inspiration. It's amazing how within a day, the scenery changes drastically. Yesterday I left the Tetons and today I'm in an area that looks very similar to eastern Oregon's high desert. Yesterday I left the smell of pine and here it smells of sagebrush.

Here are some photos from the ride yesterday.

Lunch spot along the Wind River. Very isolated.

Side Orders and Obesity

“Food is the most widely abused drug, and exercise is the most potent yet underutilized antidepressant” ~ Bill Phillips

I'm fascinated with 'Side Orders' in the small towns I'm cycling through. Surprisingly (to me at least!), fruit or vegetables are never on the breakfast side order menu. It's unbelievable. I understand that many of these restaurants in small towns struggle to survive. So, purchasing fruit that won't sell is not only a financial risk, but a waste of food. However, if fruit isn't offered, people don't have an option to eat it. So, what's the answer?? Can our government subsidize fruits and vegetables so at least it is accessible and maybe people will start to eat it? Or, can pilot grants be available in these towns to see if it'll work? If offered, would people choose it? Have they tried that? I know education would need to be included with the additional side order items to encourage people to select it, but it's worth a try, isn't it? Take a peek of some of the side order options at recent restaurants below.

Obesity prevention is on my mind often as a result of trying to raise $25,000 for the Alliance for a Healthier Generation, an organization working to eliminate childhood obesity. They work in and out of schools all over the country targeting youth. The 115+ staff around the US work diligently to help communities and schools support physical activity and healthy eating. I just got to 50% fundraising efforts, which means more effective programs, policies and practices will be put in place as a result of the $12,000+ I've raised.

Obesity was recently declared by the American Medical Association as a disease. I think many people assume that being overweight or obese is based on a person's decisions only. This is a myth. It's not just about personal control. There are so many variables. I travel for work almost 50%. I know how difficult it can be to maintain my weight while on the road. I'm tired, my schedule and sleep is disrupted (affects metabolism), access to nutrient-rich foods in airports is rare, although improving. Heredity plays a role, as does your environment. Many of the small towns I ride through may be considered food deserts by some. A food desert is an area with little or no access to healthy foods, and in many cases, only fast food or service station options exist. Parents - model eating fruits and vegetables in front of your kids. Even if they don't try it, or like it... introduce these foods to them over and over. Model eating it, cook it (and have them help), show pictures of it.

And, let's talk about physical activity. Again, with 50% travel, I know how difficult it can be to stay active. I sometimes think how easy those of you who don't travel have it... set schedule, sleeping in the same bed, access to an area you know well. Ok, I don't have kids, but you can make physical activity part of your routine. Park farther away at the supermarket to get more steps in. Find something you enjoy. There are hundreds of physical activity options. Many at low or no cost. Again- model it for your kids. They need to see you in workout gear. They need to see you sweaty. Make it a part of your routine... while working, while on vacation. I always think how fortunate I am with my family. Even now, when we are all in Florida together, we wake up and everyone figures out what they will do for exercise that day. It's routine. We do it because it feels good, we do things we enjoy (together) and we want to have many healthy, quality years enjoying each other's company.

“The food you eat can be the safest form of medicine or the slowest form of poison” ~ Anne Wigmore

"I'm Safe. I Work in Law Enforcement."

I woke up in bear country, Yellowstone National Park, the world's first national park. It poured all night long, but I was cozy and dry in my tent. I packed up early, thanking the staff at Madison Campground for offering hikers/bikers free tea and coffee in the morning. The day through Yellowstone was by far my favorite so far. It was my longest day at 80 miles and passed over the Continental Divide 3 times! The park was abundant with red, yellow, white, pink and purple wild flowers everywhere. And, I saw buffalo, deer, swans & other birds. It was a majestic ride through the park.
Although, Yellowstone is not necessarily a bike friendly park. There's barely a shoulder and at times the traffic is heavy. The one saving grace is that vehicles are going slow as a result of traffic, speed limit and passengers eager to catch a glimpse of wildlife. I'm positive I saw more than the cars as a result of my speed. It was, however, well worth it.

The views were magnificent as I left Yellowstone and entered Grand Teton National Park (see photos below). The Tetons... breathtaking! Jutting upwards into the blue, blue sky with sharp edges. At times on this trip (and this was one of them), I turn a bend and see something I never expected. And it brings tears to my eyes. I just can't help it. The extreme beauty of our country and the kindness of people and the strength of my body to ride like I'm riding is just overwhelming at times.

My day was long and as I climbed yet another hill, I passed a woman going the opposite direction on her bike, with no gear, so I presumed just out on a ride from a home or campground. She came back around on her way back and slowed to say hello. She asked me my destination for the day and I said Colter Bay Village. She asked if I wanted a warm shower at her place- she lived there. I didn't respond right away because 1. I'd been riding for 76 miles at this point over 3 mountain passes and my brain was fried 2. Didn't know how much farther it was 3. Trying to figure out logistics of meeting her where she lived. I apparently took so much time to process these things that she looked at me and said, "I'm safe." A which point I still didn't answer because I thought she was telling me that was her name. Now, envision this... We are biking, making sure no cars are coming up behind us and I don't even respond! She added, "I'm in law enforcement in the Park with my husband, you can trust me!" At that point I laughed at myself and said, "Ok, where do I meet you?" We met at the Colter Bay junction and she brought me to her home. I apologized for acting so weird and we got a laugh out of me thinking her name was Safe. I think that's my nickname for Aimee now. Safe.
I showered and Aimee offered me dinner and a place to crash. And laundry! When her husband came home, she announced they had a house guest and Clay welcomed me. I learned that they have worked for Parks all over the US but have been in this location for the longest. I'm assuming they are a bit younger than me and seemed to have settled into a life that they truly love. Two of their friends joined us for a fun evening of hanging. Aimee made me an enormous salad with grilled chicken and even offered any bike tools in case I needed to do any work on my bike- they had a shed full of bikes. I know I'll see Aimee and Clay again. We all clicked, ya know? We discussed meeting up in Brasil (heads up Gary and Kathleen!) to do some backpacking. Again, I'm amazed of the kindness of strangers. I mean, Aimee literally biked up to me and offered me a warm shower. Love it.

I woke up this morning and Aimee cooked me eggs with avocado and she quartered a kiwi on the side... What a host! I would have love to hang with them longer, but I have to be on Frisco CO to meet with a friend flying in for July Fourth weekend to spend the weekend with me in Vail. So, I got back on the bike, with a full stomach, a good nights sleep on a comfy bed and clean laundry! Today's ride was shorter- 63 miles. My ascent was 7039 feet over the course of the 63 miles! Most I've done in a day. I crossed the Continental Divide for a 6th time. Highest elevation I've been on this ride- about 9500 feet above sea level. I met two guys on mountain bikes doing the The Great Tour Divide Race. if you don't know it go here- http://tourdivide.org/
We cycled together a little and they told me they heard of me a few days back and were excited to catch up to me. I took a photo of them in front of me- see below. You can see they hardly carry anything. They also snapped my photo and I took off down a hill- a bit faster then them on my road bike. They were headed off road at some point soon after.

My body seriously feels like a machine! The ride was so diverse. I had views of the Tetons in my rear view mirror most the day. A I climbed the massive 25 miles hill, which took about 3.5 hours, I enjoyed the wide shoulder, smooth pavement and most importantly, the tail wind! Finally! My 30+ mile downhill was fully enjoyed and I got into Dubois WY easily.

The weather has turned for the better after my snow experience not so long ago. The sun is out and the temperatures are supposed to warm up. When I go downhill, however, I usually throw on a layer or two. For warmth, but it's an added layer of 'skin' in case I fall. Not that I'm expecting too! Don't tell my folks I hit 41 mph. I usually max around 30, but I was curious. I won't do it again mom and dad, I promise!

NOTE:
When I update my blog on my iPad versus my laptop, I'm not able to embed photos where I want to or label them. So- you'll see a photo of my lunch spot- recharging my phone via laptop, about to write some postcards (thank you's to recent donors) and eat some yummy food. Typical lunch scene for me... You know, with the Tetons in the back! You'll also see the scene diversity in my ride today. And the moon above the Tetons!

Two guys on the The Great Divide race. CRAZY!

Yellowstone and a Tribute

At this point, 24 days in, I've cycled 1151 miles. Hard to believe I'm a quarter of the way through my trip. And, I have to say, biking into Yellowstone Park was a highlight. Literally biking through the entrance, paying the fee and cycling the 14 miles to Madison area campground was amazing. It was late afternoon and most cars were leaving the park. After a few miles, I entered into Wyoming! My fourth state.
Cycling thru the Park was a surreal experience. It's so pristine and clean and almost feels like a Disney ride for some strange reason. The animal crossing signs have flashing lights around them and everyone is driving super slow to get a chance to see wildlife. The benefit of being on a bicycle is that you're quiet, see more wildlife as a result of being slower, have a better view of everything and well, it's just plain cooler to see it this way! I got to Madison Campground, which was full, but never for bikers/hikers. I paid my $6.80 and was shown the biker/hiker site, the food storage containers (black bear country) and met two guys- from Germany and cycling from Miami to Missoula. They are almost finished and in fact, I gave them my ACA map for West Yellowstone to Missoula. They offered to give me cash for it, however, they are doing me a benefit by taking something I don't have to carry anymore! They were thrilled and we sat by the fire talking late into the night.

On a different note, wanted to point out that every 3 days or so, I'm wearing a bike jersey that was designed by my ex-husband Jered, but tells of Meg Berte's cancer story. Meg was the daughter of one if my mom's best friends. Meg was a few years older than I was, however, we ice skated together and sometimes had play dates together. Meg was ahead of me in HS, obviously, but I always knew what was going on with the Berte kids (Tom, Ben and Sira too). Meg was diagnosed with Hodgkins Lymphoma when she was 23 years old. She was treated at NYC's Sloan-Kettering Cancer Center. She went through aggressive treatment that left her with only 35% lung capacity. She was in remission for 12 years before succumbing to a lung infection due to her lungs being compromised. To read this extraordinary story of Meg, go to : http://megberteowenfund.com/

During her remission, Meg was selected to join Lance Armstrong in 2005 and bicycle across the country for the Tour of Hope, his ride across America to bring awareness to cancer research.When Meg found out she was selected, she asked Jered to design her a bike jersey. We happened to be in NYC and met with Meg one sunny afternoon. She relayed her survivor story to Jered and from there he designed her shirt. The 52 was her clinical trial number, a hornet on the front is what she named her bicycle years prior. Hope, research and family were words of inspiration for her and are within cell-like forms. An anatomical figure is on the front with a star at the heart. An abstract map of the Tour of Hope route from San Diego to Washington DC is on the back. She wore this jersey and we printed many more for her friends and family. I got one that year as well.

I brought this jersey (I'm wearing it in Wyoming sign photo) because Meg lived life similar to me. Our spirits seemed alike in many ways. Everyday I wear her jersey on this trip, I think of her. And I think of her entire family and the extreme loss they've had over the past few years. We never know when our last day may be. Tell people you love, you love them. Be honest. Put yourself out there. Challenge yourself. If tomorrow is my last day, I can say I've lived life. And I've challenged myself while fulfilling a huge goal.

A WarmShowers.org host that I stayed with recently wrote me to say he's been following my blog. I want to share what he wrote because it fits here. "Jess, please accept my humble appreciation for reminding me what a blessing it is to be alive and to be grateful for what I have, versus what I want. And for reminding me that, like you, with my bike, I have the blessing of 1. Helping Mother Earth heal (one less car) and 2. to be able to become closer to her and better appreciate her beauty. Wishing you days filled with serenity and beauty... And just enough challenge to keep you strong."

Saying Goodbye

It was much harder to say goodbye to the CA crew this morning than I thought. I mean, I only met them a little over a week ago. But, their kindness, support, love, hilarious stories and memories we created left me a bit sad as I hopped on my bike this morning and rode away.

One of the things I was looking forward to most about this trip were the people I'd meet. I mean, I just stopped at the post office to mail something and a guy started chatting to me and told me he'd go online and donate after I gave him a Road to Rhode postcard. He gave me a great food recommendation (Wild West Pizza in West Yellowstone), a place with a gouda mac and cheese to die for (I suggest adding broccoli and Italian sausage to it!). Some of the random conversations are amazing, but meeting people like Margie, Ray, Mike and Terri on this trip really give you a sense of how amazing most people are! I mean, to be welcomed into their family gathering like I was? So, it would make sense that parting ways would bring some sadness. I feel blessed that our bicycle routes intersected exactly when they did. I was supposed to meet them and they were supposed to meet me. I'm already planning to go to Southern CA for a visit this upcoming winter. I'm sure we'll continue to share the rest of our cycle journey with each other and laugh about some of the experiences we had in this short amount of time. I wish them a safe, fun, fulfilling journey of their own. Love you guys!

Leaving My Defeated Attitude Behind

Some inspirational quotes from readers after my difficult time a few days ago...

"Here's to roads that are smooth, your cadence strong, and your spirits high. Big hugs to you in big sky country."

"May the road rise up to meet you and the wind be at your back."

"Take care and enjoy your inner strength as surprises come your way."

"You continue to be an inspiration with your ride, your beautiful blog and even more beautiful life's lessons you are sharing with us all! Be safe, keep embracing what comes, and let the tears of all kinds flow... much love."

After being dropped off at my motel by Margie and Mike in Twin Bridges and reuniting with my new tires, I dried out my clothes in the warmth and sun (yes, the weather was different 93 miles away from snow!) showered, walked into town to grab dinner and went to bed early. Woke up after a good night's rest to a happy mood, (goodbye feelings of defeat. For now, at least!) put on a new tire, packed up and got on the road. Great day riding in sunshine from Twin Bridges MT, through Virginia City, up the hill and down the hill into Ennis. So excited to ride again without the fear of my tire disintegrating. Got ice cream in Ennis (Montana Moose Moss... the BEST flavor in the world). While eating my ice cream I met a guy who said to me, "Rhode Island? That's a really small target... don't miss it!" I got a chuckle out of that one.

Eating second serving of Montana Moose Moss ice cream in two days!

I stayed at a campground after small Cameron Montana. I was the only one there and it was remote, but boy was it gorgeous!

I woke up the next day (yesterday), packed up and rode about 50 miles to Island Park Idaho. The headwinds were awful and 50 miles felt like 100+. I had some choice words for the wind and at one point, I was so upset with the wind... that I stopped, took a deep breathe, took out my iPad, put on some music and danced. Literally, danced for like 3 minutes all by myself in the middle of nowhere. I have some video... but unsure I'll post ;) It made me giggle and giggle and then I was ready to hop back on my bike and continue my ride of pedaling uphill at 4-5mph and downhill pedaling to stay at 9mph! I got to Island Park ID (20 miles or so from West Yellowstone), stopped at the little store, purchased a bottle of wine and champagne, threw it in my handlebar bag (erased photo by mistake), and showed up at the CA Crew's home! IThese are the wonderful folks that have been amazing to me. They rented two large homes in Island Park and they had family drive and fly in to join them. About 25 people. And, I was invited. As Terri said, 'You've been adopted, remember?' They also invited Natalie, Jordan and Israel to stay, 3 TransAm cyclists from TN who have been a day or two ahead of me. I arrived, and after a whiskey and Coke, jumped into the hot tub, took a shower, did laundry and sat around hearing hilarious stories from this amazing family. Catherine and George from Scotland were there and they cooked an amazing meal for about 25-30 of us. We even had carrot cake and ice cream for dessert! I'm telling you... it's been a nice break from camping in remote campgrounds. And, I'm not stinky anymore. I even shaved! ;)

Woke up to cranberry scones, bacon and french toast. Blogging and waiting for sun to come out! Natalie, Israel and Jordan (no joke on the names!) are sticking around another day to hot tub and relax. I'm going to hop on my bike, saying farewell to the CA crew since from here, they are taking a northern route to Maine and I'm headed into West Yellowstone and beyond. We'll see how far I get today!

First Tears...

It's always so hard to be vulnerable and ask for help. There are feelings of fear and embarrassment and the ego gets in the way of asking for support. But, it doesn't mean you aren't cool, tough enough or good enough. It just means you need support. And, this trip has really tested me already. I think of all the people who have helped me in so many ways already on this trip - from hosting me in their homes, to pointing out the closest post office or ice cream store ;) to bringing me bike supplies (Rhonda and Jon) to getting me a new trailer flag (Kari).

Today, I left Wisdom knowing I had 93 miles to get to Twin Bridges, location of two packages waiting for me. With new tires. I left Wisdom at 6:30am in pouring rain, all geared up. About 10 miles into the 18 to Jackson, it started to snow on me. Like rain/snow mix. And, temp dropped. By the time I was a mile from Jackson, I was concerned about frostbite on my left foot. Even with shoe covers on. I had my helmet cover on even. I have the gear. But, I was collecting slush on everything... My thighs, arms, feet. I got to Jackson, no Rainbow People in sight (their gathering is in this area this year and as a result of up to 30,000 people coming into this area, police have told people not to pick up hitchhikers and they have warned cyclists to watch their gear and not travel alone). When people are hungry, desperate and believe they are entitled to rob, vandalize and ruin the land, it's not a safe place to be. The Jackson Hot Springs Lodge took care of me. I walked in and they offered me hot coffee, a buffet breakfast and warming up by the fire. At that point, I called for help. I was cold and nervous about continuing on and the lodge had no vacancy tonight. I could hang out here, but no rooms. And, nothing else in town but camping. And, there's currently an inch of snow on the ground. I changed into dry, warm clothes, drank my coffee by the fire, and talked to the amazing CA crew I met last week. Margie, Terri, Mike and Ray. They were coming to my rescue! I hate putting people out. It means that 1-2 of them can't ride today as a result of coming back 2 hours to grab me. But, I have to believe if they didn't want to do it or couldn't have, they would have told me so... Right? I still feel humbled, but I did it. I asked for help. Once I knew they were on their way, I broke down in tears. I was scared out there. And now I feel relieved. Between the weather (soon to warm up), being alone, Rainbow Gathering, bum tire and 93 miles to go to get to my new tires... I just had to ask for help. And someday, I'll be able to reciprocate for someone else. (See photos below)

If there was one thing that has made a huge impact over the last few years on me asking for help, sharing my 'secrets', opening up and communicating more effectively, it'd be as a result of seeing this video sent to me by my friend Therese while I was going through my divorce. It's 20 minutes. And totally worth the watch. Trust me. See "The Power of Vulnerability" by Brene Brown, http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=iCvmsMzlF7o&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DiCvmsMzlF7o

The Continental Divide at Chief Joseph Pass. And, a Cairn! Like my business... !

The Lesson. And, the Big Hole Battlefield

I tried to relax. I tried to breathe and un-tense my neck and shoulders and back while riding today. I tried to focus on the scenery in this beautiful state of Montana. But, in reality I kept looking down at my tire. But, it lasted. The booting material strengthened the tire enough to keep it's shape. And, I heard from the guy who built my tires. I sent him photos of the last catastrophe (the tire is breaking down from the inside) and it is an issue with the tires. Nothing I've done. Which I knew, but always feels better when confirmed. My new tires should be at my motel waiting for me tomorrow night, 93 miles away from where I am now. I wanted to avoid Jackson MT like the plague (1000's of Rainbow Family/People coming in) so I shortened my day. It's means a very long day tomorrow, but it's ok. I'll get on the road by 6.

I climbed over the Continental Divide (easy!) and worked my way down to the Big Hole National Battlefield Interpretive Center. The Battle of the Big hole occurred on August 9-19, 1877. By this location, the Nez Perce had been on an extensive journey escaping the soldiers of General Oliver O. Howard. By the time this group of about 900 Nez Perce got though the Bitterroot Valley (which I cycled through yesterday), they thought they had lost the soldiers. The soldiers found their camp in Big Hole where I was today and on August 9, there was a massacre where between 70-90 men, women and children were killed.

As I stood there looking out where the massacre occurred (it's a solemn yet stunning location), I realized what I was supposed to learn. The lesson. I am complaining about a little tire issue on a 3 month trip I get to take riding my bike across the country. And here, in this place where men, women and children were brutally killed. So many people have suffered in life (hunger, abuse, pain) and it just put my tire issue into perspective. I know it's still valid to be stressed about it, but today's visit to the National Monument gave me a different vantage point. And, the visit reminded me how much we have to take care of each other. Human to human.

I was disheartened by this quote I saw today in the interpretive center from General Oliver O. Howard to the Nez Perce in 1877, "We do not wish to interfere with your religion, but you must talk about practical things. Twenty times over you repeat that the earth is your mother... Let us hear it no more, but come to business at once." Sadly, how much of this is still going on? Ignorance. Intolerance to others' beliefs. Lack of respect to mother earth. Lack of understanding of differences.

I'm safe. I'm healthy. I'm free of pain. And I'm on an unbelievable journey. It's not going to always go smoothly. And, you know what? That's ok.

I'm Being Tested... What's the Lesson?

The afternoon of what started out as a frustrating day turned into a delightful surprise. The sun mostly came out, with bouts of sun-showers here and there. The headwind ended and I was thankful my tire issues appeared to be resolved. I've been through two Serfas tires (both were in rear), but Rhonda brought me another tire and it seems to be working great. The last Serfas is in the front and it seemed all good so far. Both the rear tires had the strangest thing happen to them... It was like they were defective. They broke down from the inside first. The guy who recently built up both my tires (two weeks before I left) feels awful about it and he's shipping me two tires- different brands. They should arrive in Twin Bridges tomorrow. They should be waiting for me when I arrive Saturday afternoon. Rhonda shipped me another as well just in case. It's absolutely ridiculous I'm having to deal with tire issues. There's no reason I should have even needed a spare for this trip, never mind having gone through two, not knowing quite yet tonight I'd realize my front Serfas is about done too.

Anyway, like I said, the headwind stopped, the sun came out and views of Trapper Peak became visible. I was happy to say goodbye to Bitterroot Valley and it's headwinds! The road went from open valley to a tighter gorge along the East Fork Bitterroot River. I made it to my destination after a 69 mile day. Physically, I felt great. It's amazing how much easier the riding is getting as my body adapts to being on the bike all day. I set up my tent fairly quickly hoping it wouldn't rain again... which it didn't. Changed clothes, washed off a little in the river and began to cook dinner. As my food heated up, I checked my bike as I do everyday and came across the same issue with my front tire. NOOOOO!!! I took a look inside and lo and behold, it's falling apart. I have no extra tires, no cell service or wifi and the hosts of the campground aren't around. So, I took my one piece of booting material, placed it into the tire and we'll see how long that will hold. If I can make it to Twin Falls, I'm set. That is two days away on my bike, over 150 miles from here... And I have no idea how long a tube will last in a tire with booting in it. I'm frustrated and confused and isolated and there's really nothing I can do. I almost wish it were a bike issue that I couldn't fix... Like truing a tire. But, no, it has to be a lame defective tire issue. I have a feeling tomorrow will be spent trying to hitchhike to Twin Bridges with all my gear. Not fun. For many reasons, including I really wanted to ride over the first passing of the continental divide. And, it's not fun hitch hiking alone. And I have a ton of gear.
So, I'm in my tent writing... And it's ccccccold tonight. I'm annoyed and so sick of having to deal with three messed up tires for half this trip so far. And, I just want to ride without worrying. But... I have to think. Be patient. Ask why. What lessons am I learning? Maybe the answer to the last question will come with time. Or, maybe it's that I have to ask for help... Although hitch hiking could be my only option and that doesn't sound like fun. Or safe. Well, I can't say it's not an adventure!!

Update: It's the morning and I've cycled 3 miles to Sula and tire seems to be holding up, for now. Eating a yummy breakfast burrito at the restaurant here to fuel up with the expectation I'll be on my bike riding over the Continental Divide today, not hitching on the back of a truck! The sun is out, I have wifi at the restaurant to let my folks know I'm alive and my belly is full. I'm not injured. I will survive. I will be back on the bike without worry that I'm wearing out yet another tire soon enough. Send good thoughts my way please...

Who Wants Ice Cream on a Day Like Today?

My day off in Missoula was productive and fun. My hosts, Jeannie and Steve (friends parents) were amazing to me. They fed me amazing home-cooked meals, let me do laundry, supporting me watching US Soccer (not many American families would support that when there are NBA playoffs and NHL games going on...! Haha! But they were great company and their home was amazingly comfortable for me. I did love seeing middle school photos of my friend around the house! (Sorry Stephanie!)
Steve dropped me off back in Lolo on the TransAm Route and I was surprised to learn that about 40 miles of my day would be on a bike path. How nice is that? Although... It was difficult to get my rhythm today and it was cold and then it started to rain so I put on my full rain gear. Including a helmet cover to keep my head warm, shoe covers, full fingered gloves, rain pants and my fav new article of clothing... My Showers Pass rain jacket. I mean, bummer about the cold and rain, but I'm not hauling this gear over mountain passes for nothing! Then... The headwind started. I've never experienced headwind like this and it took me miles to stop swearing at it and just accept it. I mean today is a slight uphill AND a bike path? I should be thankful. I pulled into Hamilton and I'm glad I didn't just stop at Subway because in the little downtown area is a great healthy-option cafe called Loft Cafe! I'm here now and enjoyed a gourmet grilled cheese- with tomato chutney, onion relish, spinach, mushrooms, brie and cheddar. And a pickle! Pickles are my #1 favorite food, if you didn't know. I'm currently drinking tea after having finished my sandwich and recharging my bike computer and cell phone. No ice cream today... too cold. Trying to warm up before my haul to Darby in 17 miles. My goal was Sula today... But this wind might win today. Another 51 miles? I might be a broken woman!

Another day, another state!

Yesterday, I left Lochsa Lodge, saying goodbye to my new friends from CA. I started up the hill to Lolo Pass and at the top got to:

1. Change into Mountain Timezone

2. Cross into another state- Montana!

3. Finish the uphill for the day (all downhill into Missoula!)

This was very exciting for me since I've never been to Montana. I think the only other states I haven't been to include North and South Dakota. It's always a sense of accomplishment when you cross another state line. It feels great.

And, look... the daisies are STILL following me. Even into MT!

I got into Missoula and I'm staying with friend's parents. Jeannie and Steve Thompson are great - their home is a welcome respite after days in the forest. They made me a delicious dinner and we watched the USA versus Honduras World Cup Qualifier game. I'm sorry I subjected two more Americans to soccer... but they enjoyed it, I'm sure. Thrilled to see US going to Brasil in a year. Now, if I only I can catch the Timbers vs LA Galaxy game tonight somewhere... ;)

They Don't Call These Thunder Thighs for Nothin'!

Day 14

I woke up at 4:45am after a solid 8 hours of sleep. I knew today was a 60+ mile uphill and wanted to take advantage of the cool morning temperatures. The CA group was up as well and we waved saying, "See ya soon!" I loved the ride today. The temperature was perfect and I felt rested and strong. The uphill grade was super manageable and I was able to keep my speed between 11-14mph most of the day. You know you're feeling good and getting stronger when an entirely uphill day feels almost easy! My legs are getting stronger. I know, that's hard to believe. My brother Dave has called my thighs Thunder Thighs my whole life... but who's laughing now? My former personal trainer Cesar used to laugh and say, no, they are PYTHONS. I feel like I've lost a few pounds, but toned up a little too. Difficult not to on a trip like this I suspect.
My mind wandered all day but really I was in the moment enjoying the slight uphill climb along the Lochsa River.

I might be 3000 miles from the Atlantic Ocean, but this beach will do!

The views were incredible. I went swimming and had a great picnic lunch. I knew I had the option of going about 65 miles to Powell (it looked like a few services) or climbing over Lolo Pass into MT (but that would be an almost 90 mile day). When I arrived in Powell (really only one resort), I pulled in around 2pm after the 60 mile climb hoping to get lunch. The CA crew was there (Margie, Terry, Mike and Ray) and they decided to camp there for the night. What a place! Great amenities and they let us set up our tents for free! Most people rent cabins here. We got $5 showers and ate a great meal at their adorable log cabin lodge. We all showered and Ray made stronger margaritas than last night (YUM!). The group engaged in a variety activities... checking in on Facebook (first internet in a couple of days), horseshoe playing and billiards. The CA crew has a blog and I encourage you to check it out here.

View from back of Lodge. See, I am ROUGHING it Mom and Dad! ;)

"We Cannot Grow Without Challenge"

“To my mind, voyaging through wildernesses, be they full of woods or waves, is essential to the growth and maturity of the human spirit. It is in the wilderness that you really learn who you are. It is in facing the challenges of the wilderness that the thickness of your wallet becomes irrelevant and your capabilities become the truer measure of your value.”
Excerpt From: Callahan, Steven. “Adrift.” Houghton Mifflin Harcourt (www.hmhco.com).

Days 11, 12, 13
Halfway to Council ID, Council to Grangeville, Grangeville to Lowell

My 80 mile day was a challenge for me. The hill in the afternoon was short, but hot. I was crabby, and a negative attitude will not in any way help you on an 80 mile day. It wasn't that I didn't want to be doing what I was doing. It was just that, well, I was crabby! The road was rough (friction slows you down), I was hot, headwinds near the reservoir were strong and I started to think about work (will I get contracts again come fall?). I knew I'd cross into Idaho, which was exciting and I felt a sense of accomplishment when I did. At the state line, I literally pat myself on the back. I enjoyed the roads by Brownlee Reservoir but about 10 miles after Oxbow, I had a large, steep grade hill to climb in 90 degree weather. It was slow going. I had some nice downhill after that climb, but 40 miles to go and it was already 3pm. 10 miles outside of Council, my destination for the day, the sky turned quite ominous. Rhonda and her husband John were meeting me in Council ID at the RV park sometime between 6-8. As I entered into Council, I saw a fluorescent green vest coming at me on the other side of the road and an extended arm waving frantically at me. I was thrilled to see Rhonda meeting me along the road on her bike when she knew I was coming. We got to the RV park 5 minutes later and the heavens opened up on us! We sat in their truck as I downed 4 pieces of pizza (ok, maybe 9!) and Rhonda's homemade cookies. I showered and as the rain ended and the rainbows emerged, we were able to set up our tents, drink some tea, catch up and crash early. I went to bed leaving my bad attitude on the last hill I climbed.

Rhonda, a colleague and good friend meets me to ride for 2 days! First rain and a double rainbow!

Rhonda and I met years ago when I was the Physical Activity, Nutrition & Tobacco (PANT) Coordinator in Oregon. She is the counterpart in Idaho. She has hired me to do work with their Coordinated School Health Summit in ID and we see each other a couple of times a year at meetings and conferences around the country. A few years back I chatted with her about my ride from Lincoln City to San Francisco. Rhonda did it with her sister the following summer. I was thrilled when she and John decided to make arrangements to two-car it and meet me and ride with me for two full days from Council to Grangeville ID.

We woke up after a stormy night (although cozy in our tents) and ate a big breakfast in Council. We biked our way up a gorgeous area and ate Subway in New Meadows. It was really fun to go around a hill and see Rhonda and John waiting for me. I haven't had the luxury of anyone greeting me around bends or up hills yet on this trip and it sure was nice! We had a fabulous downhill after lunch (about 30 miles) along the Little Salmon River into Riggins. Riggins welcomes you will exposed hills shooting up out of the gorge, hot weather, and trucks and trucks and more pick-up trucks parked on the side of the road fishing in the river for the day. We got to our campground on the Salmon River, showered and walked the mile back into town to eat large salads and brownie sundaes. We each ordered our own desserts... I think that was overkill, but we made a dent on most of it.

What? We each NEEDED one... (hot fudge brownie sundae)

Whitebird Parade- an unexpected surprise as we pulled into town!

I woke up to the sounds of the Salmon River in the morning and we walked back into town to have some breakfast. I started drinking coffee on this trip. I hate coffee, but it's been needed (not for the caffeine, but as a diuretic...TMI? Sorry!). We'll see how long I can sustain this coffee thing. I just don't get it. I know, I know... I live in Portland and I hate coffee. Even what people call, "The Good Stuff". Yuck. After breakfast and packing up camp, we downhilled it to Whitebird and happen to get into town at the most perfect time. If we were 15 minutes later, we would have missed the 15-20 minute Whitebird Parade. We pulled in and as I parked my bike along the side of the road, I was hit with pieces of candy being thrown from multiple floats. I started talking to Hannah, a Grangeville (middle school student I'd say), who just had knee surgery after a hurdle injury during track season. She asked me about my trip and I gave her my postcard and she's already following me on Twitter! Heal up Hannah... you'll be back running again soon enough!

Whitebird 'Hill'. Rhonda counted 18 switchbacks. Quite a climb... but we all did it!

We did a quick PBJ stop in Whitebird, knowing we had a 10 mile, 15 or so switchback exposed mountain to climb. We started the climb and it took about 2 hours. It was awesome! What an accomplishment when we got to the top!

A few more miles beyond the hill, we arrived at our destination, John's friend George who has a great home in Grangeville. Sadly, George and his family were out of town, but we showered, and had a great home to stay in! Thank you George!! I had a beef taco and chicken enchilada at a local Mexican Restaurant and John and Rhonda crashed right after dinner. I made my tea and sat on the back patio of George's place, observing the wildlife and listening to the birds. I slept hard, woke up and said my goodbyes to Rhonda and John. It was John's first voyage bicycle touring and I think Rhonda and I got him hooked. John has about 8 months until retirement, but I couldn't persuade him to take an early retirement and just keep biking east. I'm so thrilled they took the time and made the arrangements to be with me on this trip. It was incredibly meaningful.

Daisies... they are following me across the country.

In Kooskia, I met Ray, Terry, Margie and Mike from San Diego and Modesto CA at the The Rivers Cafe in Kooskia. They started in Florence OR and they are riding to Maine. Mike paid for my meal (thank you!!!!). They continued their riding for today, as I wanted to catch up on my riding, but we knew we'd be in the same campground in Lowell. About 8 miles into my ride to Lowell, Ray's truck (they take turns driving a support vehicle) pulled up. They said about 3 miles ahead, there's a 7 mile section of road that is scraped up ready for paving probably tomorrow. In the meantime, Terry and Mike rode about half of it, becoming increasingly frustrated with the ruts in the road and having to pull off into gravel or grass every time a car pulled up behind them. There were cones separating both sides of the highway, so there was no room. After driving Mike and Terry passed that part of the highway, Margie and Ray came back to see if I wanted a ride. I said sure! And we loaded up my stuff. So, today was shortened by about 9-10 miles, but I got to the campground in Lowell with time to jump in the pool, catch up on writing, drink a margarita with Ray and mike and rest before two long riding days.

I haven't felt as challenged as I did on that 80 mile day however, I know there will be more days like that for a variety of reasons. I guess out of those challenges, you grow, learn, adapt, meet people, and see opportunity when things go awry. What did I learn from the other day? Patience. Sometimes I'm delayed during the day, but I happen to meet people as a result of being delayed. I feel empowered and proud of myself. More so than if I had stayed home all summer...

“Avoiding risk is not much of a goal. I am probably a bit more cautious these days, but I often remind listeners that, whether you crawl into a hole or walk a high wire, nobody gets out of here alive. We cannot grow without challenge.”
Excerpt From: Callahan, Steven. “Adrift.” Houghton Mifflin Harcourt (www.hmhco.com).

Grounded? At 38 years old?

(Updated blog entries on my trip coming once I get to Missoula tomorrow... promise! Spotty internet has lent itself to taking a break from uploading photos and even turning on my phone. It's been HEAVEN.)

When I was 8 years old my family moved 1.5 miles from a utopian, kid-filled neighborhood to the kid-free, contemporary-home street in the woods. The only way to acquire independence was by riding my bicycle. The only option to see my friends was to get on my bike, bike the very fast, steep mile and a half down a few hills and back into the neighborhood my parents took us from. Do you hear resentment? There was a little resentment on my part. But, those feelings passed as I became stronger. Physically strong enough to pedal the full mile all the way back up the steep hills home. And, as an adolescent, I knew I was in shape, good physical shape if I could make it up the driveway without stopping. Their 1/4 mile long, 8-10% grade driveway up to the house.

I can’t remember what age my parents let me bike back to the old neighborhood. Maybe when I was 12? But, I do know my mom trusted me to leave the house shortly after arriving on the school bus, walking the mile up the street, 1/4 mile up the driveway from the bus stop to see my friends. And, of course I’d have to bike all the way home, getting home by dark. By the way, these friends never came to our house - the hills were too steep! However, friends always ended up at our home when we had a dumping of snow- the driveway lended itself to amazing sled races for hours on end.

When I turned 14, I had a boyfriend named Andy who lived about 12 miles away and went to a completely different middle school a town over. We were in eighth grade. On the weekends, I depended on my parents to drive me to see him. The only way I was to see my eighth grade boyfriend was to look at a road map (this was way before cell phones and Google maps!) and figure out how the heck to bike to his house. And, keep the scheming from my parents secret. I think Andy thought I was crazy. But, he loved that I was willing to show up at his house about an hour after I left my home at the top of a very large hill to see him. One of the benefits of taking a 2-hour bike ride to see your boyfriend? Parents weren’t home.

Andy and I didn’t make it more than a year, so many bike trips later we broke up. I went to high school and continued to bike a couple of years until I got my license and first car. I don’t remember biking as much in high school as I did in middle school, however, when I was 15, I was fortunate to go on a teen bicycling trip to Europe for five weeks. I was introduced to bicycle touring. Carrying your gear in panniers, camping at night, cooking food by camp stove or fire, seeing the world behind no glass or partition. I was hooked. I came home many miles later, having biked through Belgium, Holland, France and England and stated to my parents, “I will someday bicycle across the country.”

I recently told my parents the Andy story and my mom couldn't believe it. She had my father get on the phone and made me re-tell it. And, when I finished, my dad chuckled and mom said, "You're grounded. I can't believe you did that!"

Day 9 & 10 Rest and Horses

My layover day in Baker City was dreamy. I woke up, took a ride into town (hauling no trailer!) and spent some time in the public library catching up on things. I got my brother a birthday card and my dad a Father's Day card (cowboy-themed, of course), got a hot stone massage, ate a huge salad (no ice cream that day) and went back to hang out with my hosts, Julie and Wil. Julie gave me a beautiful angle she made of ceramic. I zip-tied it to my frame (see photo). I went to bed early, waking up to the smell of Julie's amazing cooking- she made me eggs, bacon and potatoes to fuel my ride! I ate, packed up and said my goodbyes to them, thrilled to have met such welcoming, warm people (see photo). My Day 10 ride was a beautiful one, maybe one of my favorite so far. I biked from Baker City to Halfway Oregon. I passed the Oregon Trail Interpretive Center after seeing ruts from wagons on the Oregon Trail. I didn't take the ride up to the Interpretive Center because I have been there before, but I'd suggest it if you're passing through. A lot of my day followed the Powder River. I had a sweet tailwind and made great time overall. I stopped briefly at a beautiful spot along the river for a PBJ sandwich and was happy to see an island of daisies in the middle of the river. Like I said, daisies are my favorite flower and they pop up everywhere along my ride. It was tempting to cross the river and head to the utopian island for a swim/reading spot, but I wanted to get over the mountain pass between Richland and Halfway earlier than later. I stopped in Richland to re-stock my water supply and started the 4 mile, 4mph climb up the hill. Up the mountain! I enjoy the climbing actually. I go slow enough that it doesn't hurt or burn... It's just unbelievably slow-going. I sing... Yesterday was "the ants go marching one by one..." I stop and eat a Gu pack, drink water, stretch, get back on and ride more. It was the first hill that I could see most of the climb, switchbacks. I felt a sense of incredible accomplishment while I turned to begin each new switchback, but I'm curious if it's mentally more challenging being able to see how much you have to climb.
At the top, I sent some texts to people on my mind saying hello and then started the 7% grade down to Halfway. I arrived at my destination, Inga Thompson's home- a retired Olympic cyclist. She now runs Lone Fir Friesian farm and invites cyclists to stay in a room above the horses in the barn. I was awed by the beauty of the location. I showered and Inga and I went into town and spent the evening drinking beer, hanging with two of her friends, John and Ken. Our conversations went from relationships, to vintage Caterpillar toys to her Friesian horses mowing hay. It was awesome and I felt like I knew these folks as long-time friends. We got back and I crashed without even moving during sleep. I awoke to the horses out in the pasture as the sun came up. I took some photos, washed up, left Inga a note and now I'm at Stockmen's eating a big breakfast in preparation for an 80-mile day including another large mountain summit!
I'm extremely excited for two things today: my first state border crossing and meeting up with my colleague and friend Rhonda Heggen, the Physical Activity, Nutrition and Tobacco Coordinator at the Idaho Department if Education, funded by CDC. She is the counterpart to my former position at the Oregon Department of Ed and we've known each other for many years. Rhonda and her husband, Jon are cycling with me for 3 days! Can hardly wait for this Coordinated School Health 'team' to ride together!!

Banana Peels and Flattened Snakes

End of Day 7 and Day 8, Prairie City to Baker City, 65.45 miles, riding time 6:66, 10.27 avg mph, 4534 elevation gain

Got to Prairie City after an ice cream stop in John Day. Jimi, my Warm Showers host met me on his bike right as I was arriving into town which was super fun. We arrived at his beautiful home perched up on the hill overlooking the town with breathtaking views of the Strawberry Mountain range. Years ago, my ex husband and friends of ours biked around this range of mountains and it was a blast. The snow-capped tops provided a contrast to the pastures below. Jimi told me all the snow on the peeks would melt away within the next month.

Daniel and Jimi's yummy meal. Refueling my body!

After feeling human again (shower), Daniel, Jimi's 22 year old son just recently back from a backpacking trip in Europe and Jimi cooked me an amazing meal. We sat outside on their deck enjoying the perfect weather and view. I did a load of laundry (THX Jimi!) and rested well. I woke up around 5am to the smell of a dreamy egg dish with sweet potatoes, onions, peppers and other veggies that Daniel made for breakfast. After downing that, I packed up and Jimi rode with me along the highway for a few miles until he turned around to head to work. This journey isn't necessarily about the biking. It's a big part of it, however, the people you get to chat with and especially the kind Americans that willingly take you into their home and treat you like family is a gift that I'll never take for granted. I hope when I get back to Portland, I'm able to host and reciprocate the kindness people have and will continue to give me.

Sunset, Strawberry Mtns. View from Jimi's

Jimi and I, before heading out in the morning.

I rode from Prairie City to Baker City yesterday, getting an early start. I knew I had 3 mountain passes to climb with an elevation gain of 4524 feet total. YIKES! I enjoyed the day fully. My body feels great. A little sore, but strong. Although, it was curious that there weren't ice cream trucks waiting for me halfway up each of the 3 passes (Dixie, Tipton and Sumpter). C'mon! I really could have used a Toasted Almond Ice Cream bar. I would have even settled for a Rocket Popsicle halfway up the Tipton Pass. But, alas, nothing. Hardly any cars passed me. I think about strange things while riding. Like, which knowledge/skill-for-a-day I wish I had. Yesterday, it was ornithology. It would be great to be able to identify birds along my way. Birds that flirt with me and chirp at me and follow me. The other day, I wondered why we humans love throwing banana peels out the window. I notice more brown, dried up banana peels along the road than flattened snakes. And, that's a lot!

I soaked my feet in a creek after the turn off to Sumpter and within a few miles I heard a 'POP'! How exciting, my first flat tire! Well, well... it was much more than that. My brand new tire, ordered custom from a guy who built my wheels wore completely through after a week. So, I had to pry the new tire off (not an easy task with a new tire), replace the tube and put my spare tire on. Took me about an hour. I'm very concerned why this happened (see photos in album below). Maybe I'll get some answers from you readers as to what you think did this. It looks worn, not like something cut it. Hmmm. So- I have booting material with me and I'll keep the old one for a bit, but I'm hoping I can get a new tire shipped to me in Missoula since I ride 650s. Not convenient. Frustrating in fact.

After everything was ready to go, I had what is probably a really nice downhill into Baker City in the gorge. I say, 'probably' because it WAS beautiful, however the head winds were strong, I had to bike hard just to keep up at 10mph. But, I enjoyed it fully and ended up at my second Warm Showers host's home by 6pm. Wil and Julie are great hosts and after they fed me, we chatted most of the evening. I slept hard with dreams of picnics and food.

Today is my first layover day. I have a massage scheduled (YES!) and errands to do. I'm in the Baker County Library- a fantastic resource for the community with tons of magazines, daily newspaper (even the NY Times!) and free wireless. Gotta love and support out local library systems folks. Super important resource in our communities.

Click on the photo below to advance to the next photo.

Day 7, What I Left Behind and Fueling My Body

Dayville to Prairie City. 44.57 miles, riding time 3:51, 11.54 avg mph, 1650 elevation gain

In response to readers comments...
So, Garlynn asked me what got eliminated before I left. Not much- two tubes of sunblock, a bike jersey (still have 3), a long sleeve shirt. I packed really well overall but might get rid of more stuff in Baker City.
Elizabeth asked about fuel/eating along the way. I'm burning between 3000-5000 calories a day. Here's my routine. For water, I carry about 116 ounces at a time (although I could buy more if needed on stretches of road in which I need it). I fill up about 2-2.5 times a day. And, I down ice water at meals when I can. So, I figure I'm drinking between 2-3 gallons of water a day. Someone check my math... not my best skill!! One water bottle always has a Nuun tablet in it which gives me electrolytes without the sugar. I wish I could just drink water (I hate sports drinks), but I need the Nuun enhanced water for sure. I feel the difference. I'm kind of picky about drinks anyway. I like water, tea, milkshakes (occasionally... and more so on this trip I suspect!), gin and bourbon. I don't drink soda (tonic with my gin) or juice, hardly ever. I'm sensitive to sugary drinks and bitter (which eliminates sports drink, juice, soda, wine and beer). I'd rather satisfy my sugar cravings through ice cream or dessert, not a drink. Got to pick where you get your not-very-nutrient-rich food items!
For food, breakfast is random. Sometimes it's eggs (if I'm lucky). This morning I had yogurt, chocolate milk, two Babybell cheeses, a banana and orange, knowing I'd be able to get eggs/more protein in Mt. Vernon after a warm up ride of 23 miles ;). Along the way I eat Gu if I'm working really hard (like up a hill). Vanilla is my favorite- not as sugary as the fruit flavored Gu. For lunch, if I don't have access to a town, I eat PBJ. It's perfect. If I have access to a restaurant, I either eat a burger with a side salad or a large salad with grilled chicken. Although I'm at lunch now and they serve breakfast all day, so I'm having eggs with peppers, onions, hash browns, two sausage links and rye toast. And hot tea! And ice water! Because it's a heavy lunch, dinner will probably be fish or a salad. If possible! I'm starting to realize how I feel when I tell people about my charity of choice... preventing childhood obesity. Heading into more rural areas, obesity rates are higher and I have to share what I'm doing in such a way that people don't feel threatened. I want to educate and share. With no judgement. I think abut people doing this for cancer... It's just not as politically charged. Personal, yes, could be. But not as much shame around the issue.

I'm hungry a lot, but less so then 5 days ago. I think my body is getting used to this. It's fascinating the signs your body gives you. If your lips and mouth are dry - it's kinda late... start drinking a lot of water! Even if you're 4 miles until the next town, stop, add water to your bottle from your water storage bladder (mine is a Platypus), and drink. If your hungry, it's late! Stop and eat something- even if it's a Gu package. Don't wait to feel these things. I wake up with a slight headache most days due to dehydration. I'm really good about drinking water during the day (I stop to pee at least every 30-45 min), but at night, it's hard to drink all night and get a good nights sleep. So, when I wake up, I try and catch up within the first hour to get my body regulated again. This will change due to elevation and temperature. But in this heat? I wake up dry and thirsty. I still don't have all my routines down. I have systems in place I love and will sustain and some I'll adapt and change. I'll keep you all posted on those! (Photo is a farm outside of Dayville... It's for sale. Any takers?)

Day 6, Ochoco... I'll be Back! 78 miles. Climbed 2 Passes

I'm just in awe of how beautiful the ride has been today. Mental note to come back to this area and hike. I got up at 6am after an intense dream startled me awake. In dream, I was trying to quickly pack up all my stuff in a hotel room to catch a train, only to see it stop, pick up passengers quickly and leave me behind. I took that to mean I better get up and start packing up camp since I had a long hill to climb and the temperature would be much nicer at 7:30am versus 10am. Good decision. I actually enjoyed climbing the 20 miles uphill to Ochoco Summit to almost 4000 feet. It wasn't as exposed and there were plenty of sections that allowed me to pick up my pace and stretch out.

I thought a lot about food and how much your eating routine shifts on a trip like this. Usually I crave certain foods at certain times of the day, but on this trip? It's so random. The other morning I got up and cooked myself lentils. It's 10:30pm and I'm in my tent eating an entire bag of baby carrots. I crave salad all the time. So, I usually eat salad at least once a day with grilled chicken- if I can find it! Food deserts are a big issue in the US. Many people put blame on personal choice around obesity issues, but the environment and access play a large role (no pun intended!). For example, check out the produce section in Mitchell, Oregon's only grocery store (photo). There were bags of carrots (where I got mine), oranges, lettuce and cabbage in a refrigerated section. But this is it for unrefrigerated fresh produce. I'd personally get bored eating these same items.

I did eat lunch in Mitchell and met 3 people originally from Rhode Island. Thanks to Don and Pat for their generous donations after meeting me today! I rode up my second pass of the day and just before arriving in Dayville, jumped into the John Day River. I know... predictable. I still haven't climbed a tree yet... It'll happen. I've been keeping an eye out for good trees.

Dayville is adorable. I love how the 2013 high school graduating class of 7 students each have their own banners attached to the street lights throughout town. The cafe was good- I ate a large salad and some pecan pie. I saved half of the pie for tomorrow sometime. Nothing like squishing a caramel pecan pie into a bike trailer. Unless it's breakfast... Again, those cravings can be random.

I'm loving the love and support I receive from the road. I get multiple texts a day from friends and family cheering me on, or telling me they love me, or asking where I am. It's great. I even received 'flowers' (a photo of daisies, my favorite) from my ex husband when he saw them on a ride today. I appreciate all the support and love! Keep it coming. It helps a lot.

Yeah for PE Programs! Day 5, Madras to Ochoco Lake

Today was a shorter day since I left my friend/colleague's home at 9:30 and stopped at her school to visit her students. Since I'm raising $25,000 for the Alliance for a Healthier Generation (AHG), I envisioned stopping at AHG schools when I could, knowing that summer is here. Oregon isn't out of school yet so visiting Metolius Elementary School which is an AHG school provided a great opportunity. Lola teaches K-5 PE full time and for those that aren't aware... This is truly a commitment on the part of her school district. Elementary PE teachers are being cut all over this country in response to demands placed on administrators around certain accountability measures... Including test scores in reading, writing and math, attendance and behavior metrics (referrals, suspensions, expulsions). A lot of the work I do nationally is around health and physical education, programs disappearing as a result of federal mandates and ridiculous educational expectations. When I taught 7th grade health, I had students who came to school hungry, homeless, even pregnant and I was supposed to raise their reading scores? Really? Ok, not all students have basic survival need issues (although, sadly, many do) but they may be dealing with parents going through a divorce or maybe the students themselves are being bullied... all these things affect learning. We need more student support programs & quality health education programs (which have changed since we were students), that focus on skills like communication, advocacy, analyzing influences, decision making, goal setting, accessing valid/reliable information and self management. Quality health education is NOT reading chapter 11 in a book on suicide prevention and answering 4 questions at the end of the chapter. It's being able to determine where to get suicide support for yourself or someone you know in your community. Which bus to take (if applicable) and what hours the office may be open. Or what the hotline number may be.
Ok, enough about work...
Weather was hot and it's amazing how my major decisions during a day go back to food, water and shelter. Will I have enough water to last until the next town (preparation needed)? Where do I want to stay tonight? Do I have options? I'm hungry again? How can that be? Oh! I've burned 2300 calories and it's 11am. Many wind turbine parts passed me today and I'm not sure why, but seeing the arm of a wind turbine on a huge truck is somewhat eerie. They are such massive man-made constructed items. Something about seeing a part of this huge structure is both scary, yet impressive.
I spent a ton of time in Prineville today. I met up with two guys on summer break from Fletcher School at Tufts. They decided to bike from the Oregon coast back to Boston. The three of us had lunch at a yummy cafe (I was craving a huge salad!), and we said our goodbyes... I was going to hang a little longer in Prineville and they are on a fast 7 week trip across the US. I got a milkshake, wrote some thank you notes for donations that have come in and at the post office, I met Joe who told me, "There are two types of people in this world. Those that are chicken shit and those that have balls. I think I know what type you are." It was awesome and hilarious. I got him on voice memo repeating it, but unfortunately when repeated, he was much more PC in his response. "No one is gonna mess with ya. Two kinds of us in life, those that sit down and let the world go by and then there are very few of us that accept a challenge and go forward and never look behind. Seize the day. Now, I gotta give you a hug baby." Joe turns 80 next month. When he started chatting with me, I thought... I have to get on the road. I'm hot, tired and want to get to camp. And then I remember what my brother wrote me before I left, "Its the journey, not the destination." So I listened and talked and I'm proud of myself for giving Joe 20 minutes of my time today. He's one of the many amazing Americans I will continue to meet along this journey.

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Jess@cairnguidance.com

@roadtorhode