Sorry Illinois. Helloooooooo Kentucky

I left Murphysboro Illinois this morning at 6:30 am and biked the ten miles to Carbondale. I ate breakfast at Denny's and loaded my favorite photos from my trip so far in my gallery. I decided in Carbondale to be rebellious today and go off route. For a few reasons. My rebellious route cut about 20 miles off my goal destination, which would have been about 100 miles today. It wasn't necessarily as pretty I suspect, however, it was flat for 60 of the 84 miles I biked. And, there was a wide shoulder. I took Route 13 east with the intention of taking Route 1 down to Cave-in-Rock IL. From there I WOULD have taken the ferry over to KY in the morning. I had a tailwind most of the day and flew through the 60 miles at an average of 16mph! Finally! And, the weather has been perfect, in the mid-70's, low 80's. No humidity. When I got to the Route 1 intersection, I saw a sign for the Ohio River, 9 miles ahead.

At this point, I need to interrupt this blogpost for an important sidetrack. I have in the past few years done a lot of work with the Coordinated School Health crew at the Kentucky Department of Education and Department of Health. I love my colleagues here (Vicki, Jamie, Steph and Todd) and have taken over a dozen trips to KY over the past couple of years, including to present at their Coordinated School Health Symposium in 2012, help the team with grant writing, deliver two Health Education Curriculum Analysis Tool (HECAT) training events and even complete the Bourbon Trail and other sightseeing (last two not on state or federal time, promise... over many weekends with close friend/colleague Jamie Sparks!). I've also worked with Gary English (we go way back... like when I was 19 at Ithaca College!) at Western Kentucky University to help the professors in the public health department map and align their curricula. Also, the organization I'm trying to raise $25,000 for, the Alliance for a Healthier Generation, has 3, soon to be 4 employees in Kentucky and they are doing great work (Jacy, Patty and Melissa)! There's also some other folks I know through the field of school health- Barb, Audra and Stacie. Because I have a good dozen or so colleagues here that mean the world to me (and who are doing amazing school health work, by the way), Kentucky was another milestone on this trip. A very important place for me to get to. Even though most of them live 200 miles from where I am right now in Western KY (except for Gary, in Bowling Green at WKU!), crossing the border meant a lot to me.

Crossing the Ohio River (Illinois/Kentucky border)

Ok, now we can return to the scheduled blogpost. Each day, my ride has been about the journey, not the destination. I meet plenty of other cyclists that get up at 5am to get to their destination by 1, as fast as they can. That's fine with me, but it's not my trip. I stop and talk to many people a day in towns I bike through, in restaurants I nourish my body in, at fruit stands and ice cream venues I eat in. But I have to admit, today, my bike all of a sudden had a mind of its own, saw Kentucky was 9 miles away straight ahead versus staying on the ACA Trans-Am and it wouldn't turn. The bike wanted IN to Kentucky. It was saying, "Take me to one of my favorite states!!" So, I had to go straight, hoping the bridge over the Ohio wasn't too dangerous for cyclists (it was fine, hardly any traffic). It was the most dramatic state crossing for me so far (see photos below)! Emotional even! The first home I saw had 4 horses. Predictable. And, within 4 miles of crossing into KY, a man and woman pulled over to make sure I was ok (just finished watering the regional flora) and after chatting a bit, they offered me a place at their farm. They are located another ten miles passed my new destination for the night, and 84 miles was enough for me today! Drivers were courteous and the rolling hills were mellow. The scenery was gorgeous- corn and soybean fields, silos, streams and plenty of green rolling hills! My stomach is happily content with food and a Dairy Queen peanut buster parfait right now. Tomorrow I'm going to stay off route because I have a warmshowers.org host in Owensboro. I'm looking forward to meeting more Kentuckians as I meander my way into Central Kentucky. I'm so proud of myself for making it to Kentucky. Even though UCONN is going to kick UK and Louisville's butts this basketball season. ;)

To see the dramatic Kentucky state border crossing, click on the photo below to scroll through all 6 photos. They are ridiculous and quite hilarious. Yes, Alison- another set the camera and run to pose for the photo!

Goodbye Missouri

Best kept secret state, just so you know. Oops, now it's not a secret. Missouri was a beautiful state with wonderful people. This past week was the one of my favorite weeks on the trip... because of the experiences and people. As I pushed my bicycle up the banked road from the ferry after it dropped me off on the Illinois side of the Mississippi, I looked back at the ferry carrying Jim and Maria, my incredibly generous hosts and now, friends. They took the quick ferry ride across with me and as it pulled away, I waved goodbye tearing up. I was emotional for many reasons. It's hard to get back on the bike and head east when you are loving a place and connecting so well with people you meet along the way. And, in my mind, the Mississippi River was always a milestone on my journey and I made it. Holy cow! I'm in Illinois today!

In March, my mom, Elin and Aunt Doris took a trip to Ecuador and met Maria and Jim on the tour. When my mom knew my route, she contacted them and lo and behold, they live 20 miles north of the Adventure Cycling Association's Trans-America route (which I'm on). Maria, having never met me, organized that canoe float trip I wrote about yesterday (she loves going, so I didn't have to twist her arm). After the epic float on the Current River, we drove with my gear in the back of the truck to her town (Sainte Genevieve) and attended a fun local concert. I spent yesterday morning in Station 2 Cafe catching up on emails and organizing things (including upcoming routes and places to stay) and catching up with a few people via phone. I walked back from the coffee shop to Maria and Jim's home and Bryan and Toby from the Sainte Genevieve Herald came over to interview me and take photos. Press! It was great since I'm at 56% of my fundraising goal and would love to continue to get the word out. I hope to inspire people to donate, move more, eat healthier and/or fulfill a lifelong dream. You know, nothing too difficult...

After the interview, I was fortunate enough to spend the afternoon with Maria on a walking tour of this quaint, historic town. Maria and Jim live in the historic district of Sainte Genevieve so everything is within walking distance. Ste. Gen is one of the oldest European settlements west of the Mississippi. We started at the Jacques Guibourd home, built in 1806. Ms. Thompson, our guide was fabulous! She spent over an hour on the tour and gave us many details about the people who lived in the home, its' construction and furniture displayed within the home (although not original to the home, era- appropriate). Since we spent so much time there, we only had a chance to peek into some of the other homes on the Historic Tour, however, it was worth getting so much history on the one house. Ste. Genevieve is know for a type of home built with vertical wooden posts, also called 'French Creole Colonial' in the late 1700's/early 1800's. They aren't called log cabins, even though they resemble log cabins since the logs are vertical rather than horizontal. I'll include some of the photos from our walking tour below. The oldest brick building west of the Mississippi is in Ste. Gen as is the oldest school. Many people have taken to restoring these buildings to preserve for others to enjoy and learn the history. We went down to the River so I could stick my foot in (see photo below) and that's when I decided to take the ferry across this morning.

After Maria's tour, we went to the Eagles Club, a membership-only bar for happy hour. It was great to meet more locals and their group of friends. After happy hour, we came home and Jim cooked his famous (and delicious) shrimp and pasta dinner. Dessert was homemade cake from the neighbor- yum! I was only at Maria and Jim's for two nights but over the course of this past week, friends and neighbors have brought them a berry pie, two pieces of cake, soup and I know Alice brought something else today, but I can't remember what. That's community, folks. That is the close-knit small town mentality that keeps people loving and living in small towns.

I had two options to cross the Mississippi River. Cycle south and cross the river on my bike into Chester IL, or cross in Ste. Gen with Maria and Jim and take the ferry. It was obvious to me... the ferry was the best choice! After crossing, I cycled 54 miles, including a short stop in Chester, home of Popeye. Popeye was created by Elzie Crisler, born in 1894 in Chester. In my photos from today, you'll see I biked along levee roads and through farmland. It was a beautiful, mellow day of riding. It hit me today how far I've come. I'm in Illinois!

Thanks again to Maria and Jim for hosting me and being such a significant part of Road to Rhode. Love to you both!

From Sea to Shining Sea

Views from the road in MO. A bit of a welcome change from Kansas!

I rode from Houston to Alley Spring and it was gorgeous. Hilly and green. A little different than what I've come from!

Recess, something that should be a part of every student's day. 100 years ago, and even now!

It was a short 42 mile ride from Houston to Alley Spring to meet my mom's friend Maria. Maria and her husband Jim live in Sainte Genevieve, closer to the Mississippi River, however, they love floating down the Current River in Missouri, close to where my Trans Am route will take me. I met Maria 1 minute before the planned time of 1:30pm at Alley Spring. How's that for cycling accuracy? She showed me around the old mill in Alley Spring and the old Schoolhouse, originally in Eminence but moved to this site in 1971 after being out of use since 1957. Notice the schedule on the blackboard? YUP, recess is included. Get that people? No need to eliminate recess, it's core and needed for our students to take a break from sitting and gain social skills and have a chance to be physically active (ok, I'll get off my soapbox).

Floating the day we got into Pulltite Campground. Life is GOOD.

Maria and I loaded my gear into her truck and drove through Eminence and turned north to the Pulltite Campground and reserved our canoe for the next morning, an 8:30am pick up. We got to the campround, set up our tents, put on our suits, blew up two little floats she had and grabbed beers and floated the mile down river. We just walked back up through the campground after the mile. Felt great- even at 5pm! Maria cooked an amazing meal of rice and ribs and I fell asleep by 9pm. We woke up, broke camp and got picked up on the school bus and driven up river to Akers. Many people were putting in at the same time, but you end up floating most of the 11 miles downriver in isolation, especially during the week. We stopped along the way to go into caves and check out different sandbars. We tried to start a fire to cook burgers, but with the recent rains, it didn't happen. We saw a bunch of wildlife and just enjoyed the environment. It's incredibly lush and beautiful. It felt great to be on water again... something I enjoy even more than cycling!

We completed the 11 mile float mid-afternoon and jumped in the truck and drove the 2.5 hours to Sainte Genevieve, where she lives. I met Jim, her husband and unpacked my things since I'd be here until Saturday morning. We went out to dinner at a local Mexican place, came home, grabbed chairs and walked to a local music concert. There are about 50 people in their local band that plays every Thursday evening in the Catholic High School parking lot, ranging from high school aged to retired. They played waltzes, polkas, Phantom of the Opera and even America, the Beautiful. When they played America, the Beautiful, I got teared up. I mean, sea from shining sea? That's what I'm doing! I'm incredibly fortunate to see amber waves grain, purple mountains and sea to sea. I know, cheesy, but incredible.

We walked to ice cream after the local concert, came home and I crashed. Today is about catching up on errands, getting a historical walking tour of Sainte Genevieve, getting interviewed by their local paper, the Herald and resting another day before heading into Illinois tomorrow! Crossing the Mississippi- I can hardly wait!

Click on photo to scroll through album.

Still lovin' Missouri

Thanks to Jinny for bringing me to Marshfield, back on the Trans-Am route yesterday morning! The Ozarks are just gorgeous. I had a warm, humid day riding... but it was a blast. Up and down, up and down. I have finally forgiven my mom and dad for moving us from Duncan Road to Wyneding Hill Road when I was 8. Growing up with hills of Gardner Street, Wyneding Hill and our driveway prepared me for the Ozarks!

Cow on left definitely won King of the Hill.

I'll take more photos today of this area, didn't really stop much yesterday to take photos. Although, I do love seeing the cows in the water. It makes me giggle every time I pass them cooling themselves off.

I got into Houston after 65 miles around 3:30pm, about 30 minutes before the severe thunderstorms hit. I arrived at my friend Katherine's friends home, Joanne and Bill. They welcomed me in and showed me their place. Joanne made me a to-go dinner, fresh ham and cheese sandwich, grapes and cherries, chips and cookies! They brought me over to Katherine's grandmother's home, which they had unlocked for me and turned the AC on that day, since nobody is living in the house anymore. When I got into the house, it was thunder storming and it was a home I was completely unfamiliar with. A little furniture here and there since nobody is living there, but with the storms and being alone it was a bit eerie. I showered and within an hour, the storm stopped. Katherine's cousin Jamie called and he came over with some local brews from Piney River Brewing Company. The Float Trip Ale was my favorite. Thanks to Jamie for coming over, welcoming me to Houston, enjoying a beer with me and making me feel a bit more settled in the house before I went to bed! Wasn't as eerie after he left. I fell fast asleep by 9:30. I'm currently having breakfast and looking forward to a shorter day of about 40 miles to Alley Spring near Eminence MO. In Alley Spring, I'm meeting up with Maria, a friend of my mom's from a recent trip internationally. Maria and her husband live in Saint Genevieve MO, but she loves to float rivers (on canoe). So, she and I are camping tonight up the Current River and floating it tomorrow!

I went back and forth in my head about missing miles in MO to do the float trip. It actually has nothing to do with feeling like it's 'cheating'. It has more to do with missing a beautiful part of the country on bike. But, I had to give up about 100 miles of MO cycling in order to do this float trip. I'll see most of it via car with her on the way to their home, but I figured the experience with a local person will be far worth the missing miles! It's my trip... I make the rules!

Joanne and Bill's home in Houston, Texas County Missouri... how's that for confusing?

Missouri is Rockin'!

Love this place. It's green, and there are flowing rivers and wildflowers (including daisies and Black-eyed Susan's), and the people are incredibly kind. Like, over the top kind. Yesterday I entered into MO, so it's been a little over 24 hours and so far, I'm in love. With Missouri. My ride yesterday was long, but that was my choice. I left Pittsburg KS and crossed the border within 3 miles (see border photo below... I'm a hill, since it's opposite of Kansas here due to the Ozark Mountains). It drizzled on me most of the morning, but I didn't care! It was warm out and green and NOT flat and NOT windy. I passed 'J' road (many of their roads are letters) and loved seeing the farm silo's, pigs, cows and horses. The sun came out by afternoon as the hills got steeper. I stopped in Golden City at the famous Cooky's, a place for pies. The locals in Cooky's were so kind and asked me a ton of questions about my trip. I had fried chicken (3rd time in past year, which is more than I've had fried chicken in 20 years combined), and a slice of Reese's Pie a la mode. I had to have it a la mode... Yesterday was National Ice Cream Day. My friend Ginny in NYC reminded me today that August 2 is National Ice Cream Sandwich Day... hoping I'll have access to sandwiches in Kentucky on that day!

I continued on in the afternoon and pulled into Ash Grove around 5pm. Found the group of cyclists I've been with the past week, however, had the energy to continue on, so went on to Willard. Had dinner in Wilaard and realized I was only 6 miles from Springfield, so decided to continue on! Who cares if I'm 15 miles south off-route? I have never been to MO (other then the St. Louis airport), so why not check it out? Heard from Bill Potts-Datema, a colleague and friend who lives in Atlanta and works at CDC. His son and daughter-in-law Tim and Jinny live here. They gave me a call and wanted to know if I wanted to grab ice cream with them. Um, duh! They didn't even know it was a day to celebrate ice cream! They took me to Andy's, a local favorite (See photo. As you can see, I'm incredibly overwhelmed with what to order).

I decided I wanted to do a layover in Springfield. I just had an inkling I'd enjoy seeing the downtown. And, I realized after chatting with Tim and Jinny that I hadn't had a day off my bike since Breckenridge, on July 7. That's a lot of riding in heat and wind without a full day break. So, I looked at my mileage for this week and determined it was time. I'm also such a city-girl. I love cycling through these small, even tiny towns, however, I do miss the city. So, I fell fast asleep and slept better than I have in over a week. And, I slept until 8, about 2-3 hours later than usual.

Today has been a great day. I took a cab into downtown. No bike-day, remember? Not even for 3-5 miles. And from airport area, not a fun ride into town. I got dropped off in the square (even Don, my cab driver was so kind) and began my exploration of downtown Springfield. I immediately loved it. Coffee shops, trendy boutiques, alternative people... Hey, am I in a smaller Portland? I passed a spa and thought... I super under-budget on my trip, maybe I can pamper myself a bit. So, I got my nails done (the most ridiculous thing ever on a bike trip because they will be covered in grease by midday tomorrow) shellac pink! The first time I've ever in my life had pink nails. It sounds silly, but I'm so sweaty and dirty all day, most days, that there is just something about having painted toenails. I stand in a shower (sometimes disgusting showers in parks or campgrounds, sometimes nice showers) and rinse/scrub the bug spray, sunblock, sweat, dirt, grease, dead bugs off my body every evening. When I look down at my toes (currently purple with sparkles), it's over the top, but allows me to feel feminine. I smile every time I see them. So, I decided to get my fingernails done today when I walked by a salon. Pink. Outrageous! Eliza at Moda Salon was fabulous and took care of my nails. The owner Larry even gave me a spray (in a very small bottle) that will protect my hair from heat and sun damage.

I left the Salon and had sushi for lunch, seaweed salad and sushi rolls. I never get sushi in these small towns, no access. Mexican food or burger joints is about it. I rarely even see chain restaurants. The towns on this route are that small (most are under a few hundred people). After sushi I had some errands to do, like find a new bathing suit, since mine is literally falling off of me, but no luck there. I did find Five Pound Apparel a great local clothing shop and even bought one of their t-shirts - see photo below. That's how much fun I've been having the past 36 hours in MO... Enough to buy an article of clothing unrelated to a bike kit!

I spent some time in Mudhouse, a local coffee shop making calls to friends who have relatives hosting me in MO this week, or they themselves are hosting me. I spent some time meandering on Missouri State University's campus and walked to Hammons Field. I felt that I'm in the mid-west so I went to see the Springfield Cardinals play the Tulsa Drillers! Me! I'm not a baseball fan, but love sports and get into any live sporting event (Except maybe cricket). Two guys behind me (both named Andy, by the way) starting chatting with me. Hence the quote of the week, "Who knew I'd meet a crazy cool Jewish girl riding her bike across the USA to fight childhood obesity?" He was a physician. They even looked at my entire photo album of my trip on my iPad during the game. It was cool. It made me think about companionship again. Will I always intimidate some men? Will my powerful personality and strong spirit ever be considered sexy and not overwhelming to men? Will some men think, "she's cool", but not consider me a tomboy, but actually see me as a feminine, sexy person? Just questions I pondered on the way home.

Today was one of my favorite days of the trip. And that's ironic since I wasn't on my bike. Because I love the cycling- it's my favorite part. I haven't had a day when I've woken up and didn't want to ride. I was impressed with Springfield and I loved every moment of my experience here today. Hope you enjoy my photos from my first two days in Missouri.

I'm in Heat

You know, like hot weather. Some readers have asked how I keep cool. I have a few tactics listed below:
1. I have an inflatable pool with me
2. I carry 50 pounds of ice a day
3. I have an air condition bubble around me
4. I have this superhero power called cold-blooded, temperature doesn't affect me

Ok, ok- all untrue. I drink lots of water, one bottle with Nuun tablets for electrolytes. I wear arm warmers, that are actually for hot and cold. They are thin and white and protect my skin from the direct sun. I keep them wet while I ride with the water bottle without Nuun tablets, except for that one time I wasn't paying attention and started to smell watermelon and see that my white arm warmers were a slight pink. I stop when I see shade if I need to rest, eat, stretch or water the plants. I stop at least once during the day in air conditioning if possible. Even though my appetite has diminished in the heat, I know I need the calories and find food that sounds appealing versus my typical diet habits. So, if a Slim Jim sounds good, I eat it. If an ice cream sounds good at 9am, I eat it. The other day, I wanted a package of blueberries and a full cucumber- so that was my snack! Heat exhaustion and stroke are true risks in this heat especially when adding exercise to that. It's very important to take keeping cool seriously. I may still consider bringing that inflatable pool with me next time...

I left Chanute and biked in hot weather all day. Drank over a gallon of water by the end of my ride. Stopped in Girard to eat a Subway sandwich and enjoy the air conditioning (thanks to MacKenzie at Subway who let me cross street to grab an ice cream and come back over and hang in Subway longer!). I pulled up to Pittsburg KS, about 15 miles later and thought... Do I really want to camp tonight? I'm so sweaty, it's threatening thunderstorms and I would love to be in cooler weather to sleep. It's been hot sleeping the past few nights. So, I happen to be IM'ing with one of my colleagues, Brian Coyle at Dept of Health in Nebraska. He and I both like to connect on cycling, soccer and school health! He mentioned his neighbor is from Pittsburg, so I put it out there... "Does your neighbor know anyone I could stay with?" Within 30 minutes (I had just pulled up to ask the Holiday Inn Express their rates), he IM'd me back to call him. Pat and Terry (and Melinda, their daughter) Pence would host me and they are truly wonderful people. Yes! Always an adventure! Love the relationships/connections we create in our lives.

As I waited for Pat to pick me up (they were 5 miles away, but have a truck and were willing to grab me due to the threatening storm), a few guys standing outside the hotel waiting (for what? I'm not sure) with a couple of coolers. I started chatting with them and they offered a beer, so we drank beer in front of the Holiday Inn while I waited. There's a big Farm Show/conference and they said most hotels in town would have been booked anyway. Thanks to the guys for the beer and conversation! One asked if I actually made the decision to do the trip under the influence. I thought that was funny. I replied, "No, but I was 15!" They said that explained everything!

Pat and Melinda pulled up and I hope they weren't offended I was drinking a beer outside the hotel with 3 male strangers, but it didn't phase them and Pat even said, bring it with you. I declined and explained I didn't need him to get a ticket for having an open container when he just met me and was going out of his way to host me! Pat is a social worker and Terri, a nurse. Both do not do direct care anymore, but work more in administration/support and seem to be passionate about their work. Melinda is their daughter. She is 33 and currently lives at home due to special needs. Melinda is a joy to be with. She has an amazing spirit and she is a fabulous host! She works at Wendy's and has for 10 years!! She has her license and is about ready to make that move to get her own place. Noah was also visiting. He is their grandson and visiting from Lincoln NE. So, full house and I still got my own bedroom, got to do laundry and they cooked an amazing meal for everyone! Grilled chicken wings and hot dogs and homemade pasta salad and fruit salad. Melinda shared a piece of her leftover birthday cake with me... With birthday cake ice cream on top! After dinner conversations were fun and engaging and I fell fast asleep by 9:30. (See photo of the Pence's below.)

As I go east it feels more east. It is incredibly subtle, like describing to someone the light difference between spring light and fall light. It's so subtle that it would be difficult to describe. Some things are obvious... The humidity, the sounds and smells. I left Kansas today. I have a love/dislike relationship with Kansas which literally draws a line between western and eastern Kansas. I didn't like the lack of daisies ;) wind, heat, isolation of western Kansas. I'm disappointed I never had a tailwind-century day like I've heard so many have had. I did, however, like the roads (great condition!), people in eastern Kansas (there aren't any in western Kansas, so I'm not offending anyone), free camping in every city park, the butterflies, the drivers gave me plenty of room when passing, sunflowers and rolling hills of this side (eastern). I had wonderful hosts this past week- Christian Dashiel in Sterling, Pat and Pam Duffy in Newton and Pat and Terry and Melinda Pence in Pittsburg! All three hosts made this trip through Kansas a lot more enjoyable. Thank you all... I feel like I have family in Kansas now.

More PE Means More Football, Right?

I left Eureka yesterday and cycled 63 miles of a much more beautiful Kansas. Kansas and I are becoming friends. I saw butterflies almost the size of my palm and rolling green hills. I got some tailwind (finally!) which felt wonderful and I went over 20 mph, a first in over a week.

What are the lessons learned during the hard days? Mother Nature is not a force to fight. The wind has been the biggest challenge of the trip. By far. Typically cyclists traveling east get a tailwind, but not the week I'm in Kansas. Mother Nature switched it up. Lesson? Can't rely on prior stats, data, forecasts. Unpredictable challenges occur. Everyday. The days I have little wind or a tailwind I've come to appreciate. The 110 degree days I had? I've come to appreciate trees along the road for shade, 90 degree weather, the West- where I had water sources to jump into, cool nights. The challenges put everything into perspective.

I had a picnic lunch in Coyville and arrived in Chanute around 2:30. Some of the Wounded Warrior group had arrived at the city park, some were behind me. I set up camp, showered and headed into town. Sat in Giovanni's and ate what I think was the best chicken parm I've ever eaten. The piece of chicken was the size of a frisbee on a pile of spaghetti with authentic meat sauce (see photo). I ate half of it, caught up on my postcard writing and went to see a movie. Grown Ups 2 wasn't the most intellectually stimulating, emotional movie... By I laughed! Best part was sitting in air con for 2 hours. Hopped on my bike and was back at camp by 9:45pm, most of the other cyclists were fast asleep. Many of the cyclists I'm currently with like to get on the road in the morning, a few stay back and get going later. I love my breakfast, so I came back into town (2 miles!!) to find a breakfast spot. And, boy I'm glad I did. Not only because it fuels me and sets me up each morning for a great ride, but when I walked into the bustling (no joke) Grain Bin here in Chanute KS, a ton of local men wanted to chat with me. Mostly a retired group of men. More 'gym' in schools? "Yes, I advocate for more PE in schools." We want more football in schools. "Well, sports is an important component of a school community, but PE, not just sports is important too." One even bought my breakfast! How amazing is that?

I find when you travel with a group there are many positives, but your ride doesn't become just your ride. You could easily get sucked into competition of when you're going to start, what time you finish. That's something you take on yourself (or don't). You find yourself drifting from your routine that has worked for you because you're with a group. Not necessarily a bad thing. It's nice to have company, meet new people, feel supported. I do feel fortunate I'm on my own though. The independence and flexibility I have is something I don't want to take for granted.

The Ozarks are coming up. Everyone says they are harder on your body then the Continental Divide climbs. Ozarks are STEEP. Short hills, but knee crunching ups and downs. Over and over and over. Who's ready for the next challenge? I sure am!

If you want to follow my ride in more detail, follow me on Twitter! I tweet regularly and post more photos. @roadtorhode

Spontaneity

Two days ago I texted a friend telling him he's just so predictable and needs to add more spontaneity into his life. I was poking fun at my friend. The next day, yesterday, within a mile of starting my ride, Greg (a teacher) was on his morning walk with his coffee and asked me how many miles I planned to do yesterday. I said about 70 to Eureka. He said, "I'm Greg, a teacher and I'm trying to get out and ride more. I'm going to go grab my bike and catch up to you and ride 25 miles with you today, so I get in 50." I thought that was pretty bold, but, I thought, wow- awesome! Greg joined me about 10 miles in and we rode 15 more miles before coming up on Curt and Danielle (two of the 9 riders from the Wounded Warrior group- I mentioned them the other day). The 4 of us had a great day riding together. I even had 20 miles of tailwind at the end of the day! Greg was so spontaneous that he ended up joining us for the entire day and arranged for a ride this morning. He had no overnight gear with him. Now, that's awesome. Spontaneity, courage, being BOLD at its best.

The day before meeting Greg, I rode from Sterling to Newton. My colleague Gary English in Kentucky has a close friend from undergrad that lives in Newton with his wife. Pat and Pam are unbelievable! Retired (rock-star) educators, Pat began his career as an elementary PE teacher and became a nationally recognized Elementary Principal in Hesston Kansas. Pam was an elementary teacher and became very involved with student literacy. They own an 1884 Italianate Victorian in Newton that both have been working on (I'm giving Pam credit because she does a lot to support Pat's love for refurbishing, reclaiming and bringing that house to a condition related to the late 1800's- early 1900's). They are also collectors and have vintage cars, toy train sets, carved wood sculptures (many were created by Pam's father), light fixtures, art, furniture, etc. (see photos below. They did give me permission to take the photos of their home!). One of the best things about staying with Pat and Pam was that Pat is a cyclist and met me about 25 miles out of town and rode in with me. This is the 3rd time someone has met me riding in for the day and it always feels good to have a welcome party when I get into a town. Pat and I chatted education (of course!) and when I got to their home they showed me the lovely Carriage House, my 'space' for the next day or so. I showered and Pam made us a wonderful lunch (and dinner, and breakfast- she's an incredible cook and even made homemade Key Lime Pie!). I got a full tour of the house, the vintage cars and even Pat's 'man-cave' - his impressive wood and tool shop above where the vintage cars are stored. Dinner was homemade meatballs and spaghetti and their daughter, son-in-law and three grandchildren came over for the homemade Key Lime. It was great to meet their family and their oldest son, Colin and I had a lot to chat about- he's apparently a strong soccer player and we talked not only soccer, but college basketball as well. He was NOT happy when he heard I was biking through Kentucky due to the Kansas loss to UK in 2012 in New Orleans for the NCAA National Championships. He wanted me to go bike around Kentucky, not go through it. He's only 8, so I tried to be sensitive but, I did have to rub in a little that I was at that game. Rooting for UK!

I left Pat and Pam's... although it would have been wonderful to stay for longer since I fully enjoyed their space and hospitality (Pam not only did my laundry, but folded it for me!), their love and encouragement and support.

That brings me to Greg a few blocks from Pat and Pam's. Yesterday's ride was hot, a bit windy at times. But like I mentioned, I had some tailwind... 20 miles of it. The grasshoppers are everywhere... they are large. I'm really hoping I don't get one in the mouth. While I ride, they hit my sunglasses, my legs, my arms. I need to remember to keep my mouth shut. It was really fun to ride with 3 other people and eat lunch together and stop for a mid-afternoon icie (push-up popsicle)! We ended our day in Eureka Kansas and camped in the City Park (Kansas has a law about allowing cyclists to camp in city parks in every town. Many have showers and a public pool). I jumped in the public pool, showered and we sat around camp, chilling. They made me a gin and tonic (in a pickle jar) and I was happy as a clam. The firefly's are out... a sure sign I'm making my way east. I'm currently in Espresso Creations, a coffee shop in Eureka with a few of the cycling crew catching up on email and plugging in devices. I'll probably ride with this group for a while. There's something really nice about riding with people again.

Pat and Pam! And their Thunderbird. (La Salle behind it)

The Carriage House, my space at Pat and Pam's

What cyclists look like when we set up camp ;)

Bike Maintenance time.  In my dress. One of my only pieces of clothing NOT bike-related. — Bike Maintenance time. In my dress. One of my only pieces of clothing NOT bike-related.

Greg and I... we were meant to meet yesterday! We biked for a long time and chatted about relationships, life, education. Serendipitous...

Weirder Things Have Happened...

Woke up this morning after a good night's sleep. Had a long conversation with someone I hadn't talked to in awhile and I laughed a lot and went to bed feeling happy, and invigorated.

I biked 56 miles with a short lunch break along the side of the road (Subway sandwich that I bought last night). It rained for the first 10 miles, but it cleared and became a beautiful day. By 2pm it got hotter, but I made it to Sterling, today's destination by 1pm. It was humid in the morning, but my body never got too hot cycling today. That's such a change from the past week. To be at a normal temperature all day is a luxury. And, the landscape is getting greener and prettier. Things are looking up. I won't mention the wind or this blog entry will still be full of 4 letter words.

So, I need to give you some context. As I mentioned in my last blog entry, I have been to Sterling Kansas, many years back (possibly 4-5) to do a CDC training (HECAT) for about 50 educators sponsored by the County Health Department here. The training was held on Sterling College Campus. Remember this detail.

About 3-4 summers ago, CDC also hired me to facilitate the Systems Thinking Systems Changing Simulation by The Network Inc. I facilitated the simulation in NYC for about 175 educators from about 25 Urban School Districts. The event was the Urban PE Summit and Portland Public Schools (PPS) sent a team (which I was thrilled about!). We even got to go to Gracie Mansion and meet Mayor Bloomberg... but that's another story. One of the PPS team members was Larry Dashiel, a Regional Administrator. We had yet to cross paths prior, but both had many colleagues in common. We hit it off and became friends. We now meet for breakfast at the Tin Shed (my last meal/breakfast before taking off on this trip) regularly to catch up about work, family, people we have in common. Larry's son, Christian lives in Sterling, Kansas. So, he told me to let him know when I was coming through. I got in touch with Christian a few weeks ago and lo and behold, he's the Chaplain at Sterling College (and where Larry, I hear, is a college football legend still!). Christian arranged for me to stay in Cooper Hall, the renovated and beautiful admissions building on campus in a guest room on the top floor. When I pulled up on my bicycle, I couldn't believe it. Cooper Hall is where my HECAT training was years ago. I'm currently sitting on a king bed in a gorgeous room 3 floors above where I facilitated an all-day HECAT training to 50 educators. In Sterling Kansas. The chances... it blows my mind.

Bike in front of window in my room at Cooper Hall on Sterling College Campus

Cooper Hall, my room is top, center below turrets. If you look carefully you can see my bike. I'm looking for a prince, know one?

It was nice to have an afternoon 'off'. I walked around the small, but pretty campus, got some lunch fixing's for tomorrow, got a pedicure (purple with sparkles on top... very princess-y), and walked over to Christian's beautiful home. I was welcomed by their three kids (Hannah, Zachary and Ellie, ages 2, 4, 7 respectfully) and their two large dogs. We had dinner together and then they were all off to gymnastics! I walked back to campus and I'm enjoying this amazing view out my half circle window at the tip top of this castle-like building. I wish the USA/Costa Rica game was on TV... apparently Fox Sports Midwest cares more about baseball then soccer (what the?!?), but Dad is texting me updates since my parents are actually at the soccer game.

My body seems to have healed from the brutality of the heat and wind from the past few days. Since both have let up a bit (the heat, not really the wind), my body feels a bit more normal. I really appreciate my body every day. It's amazing. I mean... it's working so hard to pedal me across this country. I feel so fortunate to have a wonderful physical body that does what I want it to do and is overall completely free of pain and healthy. Unbelievable.

I talked to a friend today who is undergoing chemo treatment. She feels great (after the 4 days after her first treatment). And, she told me she wakes up everyday feeling lucky to feel good. I told her, we should all do that. Everyday. Love your body. I definitely cherish mine more than anything right now.

You get really excited about weird things in Kansas. Like, trees on your right that block the wind coming up from the south. It means you can cycle more efficiently for those 500 yards or so...

I realized I hadn't posted a Kansas cornfield photo yet. Can't deprive my readers!

You know you're in Kansas when... there's horse poop in the parking lot.

2195 miles cycled, 91348 feet ascended, $13,625 raised

I've passed my halfway mark for both mileage and raising funds to eliminate childhood obesity*! I still have a ways to go, however (for both!). My charity of choice is the Alliance for a Healthier Generation (AHG). AHG works to eliminate childhood obesity in school and out-of-school settings all over the country. They are in over 18,000 schools and not only does the organization lead obesity prevention work among youth in the US, but supports implementation of best practices in many settings. My goal is $25,000. Help me get there. To donate, click here.

*Halfway mark on TransAm (OR to VA) not including riding up to RI ;)

Kansas is getting better. It was cooler yesterday and today. In fact, when I started cycling early this morning there was no wind for about 2 hours! It was dreamy. And, it was the first time that it felt like I was on the eastern side of the United States. The crickets, birds, humidity. The smell and sounds reminded me of Connecticut, where I grew up. Kansas is getting greener as I head east and a bit hillier (that's actually a good thing!). I still have to bike between 20-60 miles between towns, but it seems less remote somehow. For example tomorrow, between Larned and Sterling, there are no services on Route 19 for 58 miles. So, on the way into Larned tonight, I stopped at Subway and got my 6 inch sub for tomorrow's lunch. I'm getting a little sick of PB and honey or cheese sticks. I'll need to carry my water for the day.

I met a great group of cyclists, with a support truck that are riding to raise money for Wounded Veterans (Wounded Warrior Project). You can learn more about them or donate by clicking here. I haven't met all of them while riding the past couple of days (they ride spread out), but ate lunch with Cliff today. There are 7 cyclists from all over US and range from 31-78 years old! Super diverse group, including one woman who is on active duty, but got released for 2 months to ride with the group. She is a wounded warrior herself, but can ride- she flew by me today! They invited me for margaritas in the park where they are camping, but I didn't make it. I have been so exhausted from the heat and battling the wind this week that I get in around 2-4pm, shower and take a nap for a couple of hours before I eat dinner. I almost slept right through dinnertime tonight. I didn't nap for the first 6 week of my trip, but this heat has added a layer of exhaustion to my day.

The next two nights, I am staying with family of friends or friends of friends. In Sterling KS and Newton KS. I've actually been to Sterling, my destination tomorrow night. I'm a trainer for Centers for Disease Control and Prevention's Training Tools for Healthy Schools Training Cadre and I had the opportunity to do a training to 50 educators (pre-service and current teachers) on Sterling College Campus a few years back. It was for a tool called the Health Education Curriculum Analysis Tool (HECAT) and I remember having a great group of educators.

I can't believe I'm halfway through my trip. A friend posted a photo of my destination on Facebook today, the breach way on Charlestown Beach, Rhode Island. I guess I've never explained why Rhode Island is my end point. My parents have a little cottage in Charlestown and I grew up on that beach. That beach is where I learned how to swim. That beach is where I dug holes for hours with my dad and built sand castles with my brother. That beach is full of perfect childhood memories. It's one of the most important places in my life.

Charlestown, Rhode Island Breach way (photo by Meghan)

You're Going the Wrong Way!

Sometimes I feel like telling other cyclists they're going the wrong way when I meet them. That's because I like them and want them to join me. But, we just pass in the wind. Sometimes moments, like a wave or nod without a stop on the road. Sometimes it's longer, like a meal. Or, we sightsee Old Faithful together.

Tonight I had dinner at a local restaurant here in Scott City, Kansas. I went to a place with a salad bar and on the way back to my hotel spotted a DQ. I can't really ride passed a DQ without stopping these days... duh. I noticed a couple of touring bikes outside of DQ. I got to meet a great group of cyclists- some who have met only days ago, some who have been leapfrogging each other for the past couple of months. They were Alex and Andy @LookMumNoCar from the UK, Sam from NC, Gary from Ireland and Tom and Joe from Phoenix. We sat and shared stories. I needed an evening with people. I haven't met anyone the past few days since the towns I'm cycling through have less than 100 people and it's so hot that nobody is outside in the evenings. There just hasn't been opportunities to meet anyone- local or cyclists!

I think I have Kansas beat. Here's my plan and it seems to be working. I get up early and start cycling by 6-7am. I finish by noon. I only do about 50-60 miles a day. I was doing 60-80 in WY, MT and CO... but believe it or not the heat and wind is more difficult for me than climbing mountain passes at altitude! So, I've succumbed to less mileage. My leg muscles ache more from the riding over the past 3 days then it has since I began this trip June 5. I never would have guessed wind resistance harder on my body than crossing the continental divide 10 times. Fascinating.

I took an ice bath today. For my sore calves and quads. It really helped. I've never done that before. I literally got a ton of ice from the hotel ice machine and sat in a freezing bath to help my sore leg muscles. It worked. Brought down the swelling my muscles are experiencing and loosened them up a bit.

Tomorrow, I repeat. Get up early and ride. I hear the temperature is supposed to drop- to 95 degrees. Yup, you know you are in a hot place when you are excited about 95 degree temp!

Cyclist crew I met in DQ in Scott City KS.

I'm Going to Burst into Flames

Ok... Better day then yesterday. Slightly. The wind wasn't as strong (check out photo below- people plant trees around their property due to the wind) . It didn't help me... but it slowed me down less. However, the heat was intense. I'm glad I was on the road by 7:15. Less wind and a little cooler. If you call almost 80 degrees at 7:15am cooler. I made it to Sheridan Lake (although I don't think there's water in the lake- not that I could see) by 10:30 and I was thrilled the gas station had Subway-like sandwich offerings. I know it was only 10:30, but I had a 6-inch sub, chips and an ice cream sandwich. It was almost 100 degrees outside by the time I walked out. I was halfway through my ride at 10:30, but didn't get to my destination until 3.

I passed a turtle crossing the road. I stopped and moved him across and was confused since I had no idea there were turtles in this area! I moved him and wondered if I'd see many more that I'd feel the need to move so they didn't get crushed. I actually only saw 3 more... squashed from cars. A squashed turtle is not a nice scene.

I crossed into Kansas!! So I had to take my border photo (see below). I crack myself up. I literally have to set up the camera/tripod, set the timer, run over and in this case my pose was on the ground. You know... Entering FLAT Kansas. Dorky, I know.

What's funny is that I keep hearing about the thorns that cause numerous flat tires to all cyclists through Kansas. I had two- at the same time (rear tire and one trailer tire) about 100 feet for the Kansas state sign. So, in Colorado! It took me some time to change the tires... The heat was ferocious and it just takes time to patch and fix. Luckily there was one tree near where I flatted out, so I had shade for about an hour while working. I wish I had my "I'm Thorny" shirt (discontinued I heard, due to controversy), by the Portland Thorns (women's MLS team) in my drawer at home. It'd be perfect for this trip through Kansas.

I got to Tribune Kansas and settled for yet another motel. I got to the public pool in time for a dip before they closed ($1.50) and now eating at Karen's Kitchen... Where sometimes salads like these (see below) actually look good... when you are really hungry.

I know that Kansas will be like this. Wind and heat. So, I have waved my white flag and decided to keep my distance under 55 miles a day so that I'm not in pain. Or I don't die of heat stroke (actually a risk). Kansas will just take me double as long to get through. That's just what's going to happen. And, it's all ok.

Wind: 1, Jess: 0

Yesterday was by far my most challenging day. Montana snow day was scary. Today was challenging and frustrating. By the time I got into bed in Eads CO, I broke down. My hard, strong, resilient, stubborn attitude from the day slithered off me into a puddle on the ground and my tears just flowed. I was trying to figure out exactly why I was crying. I think it was out of relief and letting go of the frustration I felt for about 40 miles of pedaling. I was physically and emotionally done.

Let me tell you about the wind. The last 3 miles took me an hour. There was a point yesterday I had to remove my sunglasses since the wind was beating on my face hard enough to make my nose sore. My helmet mirror wouldn't stay straight. I was in triple ring on a flat surface all day. My right ear hurt from the cross wind mostly coming from the south. It was so loud all day I was concerned about hearing loss. So, I put a bandana on my head to cover my ears. But remember, it's about 95 degrees. And, heat exhaustion/stroke is a very real problem. So, I had to use water to drench my head every so often. But not too much since I'm in such a remote area, I can't waste my water.

Most of the day was challenging, but not spirit-crushing like the last 20 miles. Prior to finishing the last 20 miles, I stopped in Haswell, praying there was at least a gas station to load up on water. There was (barely), but the best part of the day was meeting MaryAnn (mom), Erin and Bethany. From Maryland, Erin and Bethany decided to bike the TransAm (east to west) and mom (Erin's) joined them for a few weeks!
We discussed how empowering it was to see fellow women cycling (WE ROCK!) and how much ice cream we've eaten. In retrospect, I should have camped with them in Haswell in the city park... instead of pushing on. I enjoyed meeting them and we would have had a fun evening (no facilities, but who cares!). But, I pushed on. I encourage you to check out Erin and Bethany's blog at bikingthetransam2013.blogspot.com
See photo below of the three of them.

Let me be clear... it's not about the speed, or lack thereof. I would be fine climbing a hill at 4mph all day. It would be physically harder, but nowhere near as frustrating as the wind. Remember, I did cross the continental divide 10 times in the last month!

Layer on top of the wind... full exposure, nothing pretty to look at, isolation, and heat. And, it's demeaning to be able to see a town 13 miles away (have I mentioned it's really flat and there's nothing here?) and it takes 2-3 hours to get there. Now, I'm not typically a negative-Nancy and I knew there would be incredibly challenging days... But I don't want to write and capture just my easy, happy days. That would be leading you, the reader on to believe it's all fun and games. It's not. It's hard.

I finally got to Eads, stopped at the city park to use the restroom and looked down to see I had a flat trailer tire. Ugh. Fixed it and since it was so late (7:45), I went straight to dinner. My body was shaking. From fatigue and exhaustion. I ate and decided not to free-camp it in the city park, but rather pay $50 and stay the night at a motel. I showered and collapsed (and the tears came). I felt safe enough to finally let go and it felt good to let all the frustration and anger out. I fell sound asleep once I was fed, clean and safely in bed.

What did yesterday teach me?
- I can't put in 80 miles in this heat and wind. Although, sometimes in this remote area, you really don't have mileage options
- I need to start early, when it's cool and the wind hasn't quite picked up as much
- Most of these tiny towns have city parks that you can camp in... But being alone, that doesn't always feel like the safest decision for me. So, I opt for motels
- That this section might continue to be incredibly challenging and lonely
- It's important to still try and have fun and have a sense of humor... Even if I'm alone, feeling ugly and dirty (see photo with flowers in my hair)
- Tomorrow is a new day

84 miler Canon City to Fowler

Today was hot. I guess it's preparing me for the heat and humidity that will be a regular occurrence on my trip from now on. It never ceases to amaze me the diversity of my environment from one day to the next. I left Canon City and said goodbye to the mountains and welcomed the flat that is eastern Colordao. Well, unsure if I'm excited for flat cycling or not. I mean, as long as there isn't Intense headwinds and crazy heat (ha! Had both today), you can pound out the miles. But the scenery (to me) is nowhere near as beautiful as the west. But, I hear from cyclists I've met that there is a beauty to Kansas.

I stopped and had a great breakfast burrito at The Pour House in Florence CO. I met a woman who biked the Southern Tier (ACA route) in the spring and had an amazing time. I think it was with Adventure Cycling Association because it was a supported ride. I should have chatted with her more (and taken a photo), but I knew I had a long day and ate my burrito fairly quickly and was out of there! I need to remember to slow down sometimes. I didn't even get her name. And those are the experiences I love the most... the people I meet. About a mile out of town I pledged to not rush out, especially with people who seem genuinely intriguing to me.

The heat today meant a few things... I noticed my appetite isn't as strong, so I need to force myself to stop and get calories in (I never thought I'd say that!) in the heat. I figured I drank over a gallon of water today and probably dumped about 30 ounces of water on my head to keep from getting overheated. Since I'm in a remote area, I need to look ahead on the ACA map to make sure I have water access. if there's a long time (usually over 30 miles), I need to carry extra water. With my two water bottles, two bladders and my Teavana thermos, I can carry about 90 ounces with me. If I know I have further to go, I'll buy water and carry extra. Which is fine, but creates a heavier load of course. I also need to reapply sunblock over and over. Seriously I'm so gross by the end of the day...

The terrain is really ugly here. It's dry (too dry actually and has resulted in fires as many of you know) and there's a ton of litter along the side of the road between Pueblo and Boone/Fowler. There was hardly any traffic for the last 25 miles of my ride, so I listened to music, which helped pass the time in the land of ugly. My rear view mirror reflected dark skies gaining momentum on me. Lightening flashed like a strobe. I kept pedaling and beat the storm, although the motel owner said, "We'll be lucky if we get precipitation, although there is a severe thunderstorm and hail warning right now." Glad I felt the need after 84 miles to stay inside... Air conditioning was calling my name.

I was thinking today that I haven't heard one cat-call, one whistle. No sexual harassment experiences. Just amazing. I honestly expected more of that and I'm incredibly relieved that it hasn't happened. I've had comments about my quads and calves... but all innocent! In fact, most men I meet are humbled by my adventure. Let's hope the respect continues! I continue to feel incredibly fortunate to be alone and feel safe cycling across the country. I'm careful and I know anything could happen at anytime... But overall, I feel very safe. We live in an amazing country.

"Maybe They're Wired to Experience Life a Bit More"

About 95% of the time when someone comes up to me and starts talking to me about my journey, they ask me two questions.
1. Where are you riding from/to? (Common reaction is shock)
2. You're traveling ALONE? (Then they say, "Are you crazy?)

I recently read an article on extreme athletes in Americanway, American Airline's magazine. It was the May issue. I don't consider myself an extreme athlete, however the article was an interesting read prior to leaving on this bicycle trip across the country.

Excerpts in quotes are from the article.
"A significant part of attempting these feats is realizing one's ability to overcome fear and pain to accomplish a goal. As athletes continue to push the boundaries of what's physically possible, people who study them are realizing that the mind is just as great an impediment as the body." I think most people can physically do many things... however, it is their mind that inhibits them from doing many things. My hosts from Rawlins told me they met a couple that were bicycle touring across the country with their 2 year old! I mean, if they can do that... what else is possible? How amazing is that? They had the will to do it. And they are.

"Many people's jobs do not offer a way to feel fully human. Pushing the potentials of the body is a natural fit in a world that is turning people sedentary." Yesterday, while riding, I thought, 'I feel alive. More alive than I've ever felt.'

I've had to have faith in the fact that my business will sustain after taking 3-4 months away. It's a scary, risky choice. But, I'm proud of myself for doing it. With discomfort (not pain, just physical and mental discomfort) and the unknown, you grow. Many of us choose the easier option. Whatever is convenient, safe, familiar. But, you won't grow as much as if you take risks, be bold. Do something you've always wanted to do. Quit a bad habit. End a relationship. Rekindle one. Embrace the unknown and become something bigger and better.

Vail, Breckenridge and Fairplay

Colorado's first daisy siting, on Vail Mountain!

I had a wonderful rest of 5 days off the bike. Thought it would be more difficult to motivate to get back on the bike, but I woke up in Breckenridge this morning feeling like it was time to continue on my journey.

At the Vail Symphony. A little different than bike gear and camping in remote campgrounds!

Vail was full of eating yummy food, hiking (saw my first daisies in CO hiking up Vail Mountain), attending

the Bravo! Vail to see the Philadelphia Orchestra, connecting with friends who flew in for the weekend and meeting a bunch of new friends. After Vail, I went to Breckenridge and stayed at a friend/colleague's place. Our time only overlapped for an hour, but it was great to meet his partner and kids! Their home was beautiful... I took a long nap, did laundry, spent time in the hot tub, listened to music. Steve and Christopher's friend Dave stopped by and we hung out for a bit and chatted bikes. He even invited me to go mountain biking today and I have to tell you... being here has been harder to say "NO" then I thought. I see hiking trailheads leading into beautiful wilderness areas, mountain bike trails jetting off in every direction and hear of thrilling white water rafting. All things I love to do, but I'm fearful I'll get injured if I do them! I declined Dave's generous offer to bring me mountain biking, but I sure do appreciate him stopping by and meeting me. He gave me a few Enduro Bites, a new product (energy bar, gluten free) to try on the road. Haven't tried one yet, but I'll keep you posted! I went into Breckenridge Village for dinner and met Jeremy, a semi-local (he has places in Denver and Silverthorne) at a Mexican restaurant. Thanks to Jeremy for showing me a fun evening in Breckenridge!

Last time I was here... must have been college to snowboard!

Thanks to Steve, Christopher, Julia and Beckham for letting me stay in their beautiful home!

Today, I packed up, left Steve and Christopher's home, biked on the awesome Breckenridge bike trail (see photo), ran some errands in Breckenridge, ate a big lunch and started the climb up Hoosier Pass. It actually wasn't too bad, other than trying to get my groove back after 5 days off the bike. The hardest part for me was the altitude. I climbed to 11,539 feet, highest point on my trip and 10th (and last!) Continental Divide crossing.

The downhill was sweet- into Alma and Fairplay. I got into Fairplay, did laundry (aka washed my bike clothes from the day in the sink with Woolite), showered and I'm about to grab a big salad somewhere. I'm back on it! Feeling very happy to be biking again and I'm looking forward to the next stage of my trip- the rest of Colorado and into Kansas. I'm actually a little sore this evening- from not cycling for a while, but I'm sure I'll be good to go by tomorrow. Update: I've cycled 1737 miles and climbed 84,911 feet!

Breckenridge Bike Trail... Colorado, could you stop being so beautiful and awesome?

10th and FINAL Continental Divide crossing on my trip. And, highest point on the ACA Trans-American route.

Relationships and One Decision

Sitting by the pool at the Four Seasons in Vail over July Fourth weekend is both overwhelming and a bit of a culture shock. It's strange to be taking a vacation from my 'vacation' cycling across the country. The pool boy shows me to my lounge chair, spreads my towel and brings me orange-infused water. A woman comes over offering me a Rice Krispie treat on a stick with red and blue sprinkles on it, while a guy with a guitar performs live music poolside. From my chair here at the pool I can see my balcony with my tent and tent fly hanging over the railing drying. Unsure that's what the hotel wants its guests to do, but I don't care. It's a little overwhelming to be around so many people. The most people I've been around on this trip other than now was at Old Faithful. So, it's amazing, but an adjustment. I'll adapt by tomorrow, I'm sure. I'm exhausted... I'm finally feeling the 15 days without a rest day. It's like when you're a college student pushing through to finals. You finally make it to break and you get there and you are physically and mentally dead to the world. Yup, that's me. Hyper, social Jess will be herself... In a day or two!

Been thinking of a past relationship recently. I think holidays do that for me... seeing families and couples together. Ever think back to one decision you made that changed the course of a relationship? I told him, "This isn't just a weekend for fun and games. I'm in love with you now, you know that? My heart is involved now." He answered me, "Are you serious? I know that." Obviously offended that I would even have to state something so obvious. In retrospect, he didn't really get it. He didn't get that this meant more to me then it had in the past. Months later it was obvious. I shouldn't have stayed that weekend.

I feel empowered by this trip. I'm a very independent, strong woman and have always been. But, I didn't really know how to be alone for most of my life. I'm an extravert. And this trip tests that for me. But it's been easier than I thought. I love my isolation and solitude. Hours and hours of riding my bike. Arriving at a remote campground and being the only one there. I cherish it actually. Maybe 'making up' for lost alone time for 35+ years when I didn't really know how to do it. Italy this past November helped me prepare as well. Hiking in Tuscany on my own was invigorating and empowering. There are benefits to traveling alone. The CA crew was able to come back and give me a lift easier because it was just me. I've had discounts on campground prices. I get to begin each day when I'm ready. And, there are other things... one morning I found myself getting sidetracked after my shower. Instead of putting on my clothes after I hung up the damp towel, I remembered I needed to add air in my rear tire, so I pumped it up. Naked. I mean, why not?!? (I was in my own motel room, not outside at a campground, FYI!)

I've been spending some time observing families on this trip. Fathers fishing with their kids, grandparents taking their grandchildren to Dairy Queen, families laughing around a campfire. I miss companionship. I miss being around and part of a family everyday. I'm not lonely. But, it has been on my mind a lot over the past year. I don't have a partner and my family lives on the east coast. It will be interesting to see where I end up. I don't have fears about being lonely or alone. I know I'll meet someone. I feel fulfilled now. I feel strong and solid and I've been happier on this trip than I've been in a very long time. Would it be nice to be traveling with someone? Sure. But this is my trip. And as I said, I cherish this alone time.

With hours on a bike, I think about past relationships. I'm proud of my journey. I've grown considerably over the past few years in many ways, including how I need and want to be treated in a relationship. I look forward with no time expectation to meeting a companion to share life with. To have stability and laughter and honesty and strong communication. Whether that happens in 7 months from now or 10 years from now, I don't know. But in the meantime, I'll continue to absorb, grow, stretch myself, learn, set boundaries, be honest and live life with integrity. And, that one decision can change the course of your life... And as much as it ended up causing me sadness, it's part of the path I was supposed to take. And as a result, I've learned a heck of a lot about myself.

Welcome to 'Unlawful' Colorado

I said goodbye to Wyoming on Tuesday. Wyoming's Yellowstone and Tetons have been a highlight of the trip so far. The people were great, the weather was perfect, the butterflies returned (too cold in MT) and I was relieved to have no tire issues. I was not sad to say goodbye to the roads (pretty torn up) and drier part of the state (not as pretty).

Colorado welcomed me with a sign that said "Welcome to Colorful Colorado". Although upon approaching from afar, I thought the sign said, "Welcome to Unlawful Colorado." My first thought was, 'wow, this is gonna be a fun leg of the trip!' As I approached I realized my mistake. Bummer.

I stopped for a late lunch in Walden CO after about 50 miles starting in Riverside that morning. I had a few options...
1. Stay in Walden (free camping in city park) but possibly not make it to Silverthorne and then Vail for the Fourth-where I have reservations for a few days
2. Continue on to Rand area and climb Willow Creek Pass and find camping in the National Forest
3. I had two ways I could cycle towards Kremmling- one meant I had to bike 60 more flatter miles on top of my already 50 to Kreemling (it was currently 3:45pm)... But HAD to do the full 60 miles, or go over the Pass, but have a 40 miles stop option.

I opted for #3, the 40 miler, even though it meant climbing the Continental Divide for a 9th time!! I had energy, the temperature was perfect and the scenery was gorgeous. Very different from the day prior leaving Rawlins in WY (mostly high desert-like vegetation, sagebrush). I camped alone in the forest along Willow Creek. I got into camp around 9pm with about an hour of light left. Set up my tent, boiled water for a luxurious meal of Top Ramen (I wasn't super hungry but knew I needed to eat and get more fluid and sodium in me). I drank a ton of water as a result of fear of dehydration at 9600 feet and due to the exertion of climbing the Pass. While my Top Ramen cooked, I bathed in the creek which was cold but felt good to clean off after a day's collection of sweat, sunblock, bike grease and bug spray (I went through an area with enormous mosquitoes). Unsure if I was in bear country still, I hung my food away from my tent and climbed into bed. I awoke at 2am, having to use the 'facilities' and I don't think I ever seen so many stars. What a sky! My feet never quite warmed up all night even with my wool socks on. When I clambered out of my tent in the morning, I figured out why. My water bottles were frozen and there was a layer of frost on everything including my bike! (See frosty handlebar photo below) It was cccold. I started my ride by 8am with many layers on. I ate a quick breakfast while I packed up and drank some tea, however, I was looking forward to eating a real breakfast in Hot Sulphur Springs. I figured there was a place that would make me eggs!

I passed a German guy going up the hill while I was going down into town, he wanted to chat, so I stopped. However, I think the etiquette on the TransAm should be if you are the one going downhill, your call if you want to stop or not. I mean, I could have blown by him, even though he waved and crossed the road to chat. I had a ton of momentum and didn't really want to stop. He talked and talked and I didn't mean to be rude, but I was almost out of water and HUNGRY and had 22 miles to get to my eggs. I told him I needed to get going and we said our goodbyes. Usually I'm fine chatting, but the hunger trumped chatting with another cyclist!

I must be in Colorado because this breakfast spot (The Glory Hole Cafe), offers veggies, including spinach in their omelettes! YES! And, The Shins are playing. Must be in Colorado. And, Diana the server was a doll and another customer, Nancy gave me $20 for my trip!! There's a photo posted below of Nancy and I with her new bike since she's trying to exercise more. Keep up the riding Nancy! I'm proud of you!

Tuesday was my longest day so far at 89 miles. I'm saving my first century for Kansas ;) Yesterday was 74 miles and by the last 36, I was done. Like OVER biking. After 14 days with not one day of rest, my body was done. I made it to my Warm Showers hosts here in Silverthorne- Cindy and Dave (married) and their roommate Aubrey. Awesome people. All cyclists. Dave is a carpenter and Aubrey and Cindy work for the US Forest Service. They live in a beautiful home and they cooked an amazing meal. We talked of common international travel sites (New Zealand, Bolivia, Europe), got updates on the day's tour stage and I fell fast asleep in a comfy bed of my own. I'm headed to Vail today to spend the weekend with a friend. And, I found out yesterday another friend decided last minute to fly in and spend some time here this weekend! Parade today, fireworks tonight, symphony tickets tomorrow night... I think this weekend may feel like culture shock. A far cry from taking an extra peanut butter packet from the motel last week!

I woke up feeling incredibly thankful (no chamois butter for 4 days!)... but seriously, to live in a free country where I think nothing of saying what I want, being who I am, and feeling safe to ride across the USA as a woman alone. Happy Independence Day everyone and thank you to those of you who help continue to support our freedom.

Online Dating Profile

I think of really random things while cycling. Hours and hours alone. Mostly I think I'm in a meditative state because I look down and I've done 11 miles and didn't even realize it. However, I think of men a lot. Past relationships, present, future. Friends, intimate partners, family. After my divorce, I was online for a bit meeting people. Overall I had good experiences, even though I'm not dating any of them currently. Some men are important friends in my life now. I got offline this past winter, however, the other day I was thinking how funny my online dating profile would be if I was on dating site while on this trip. Most sites adjust your location so it'd be perfect. If I want a date in Jeffrey City WY, pop. 32? I might secure one!

I believe you need to be honest in your profile. So, mine might include things like...
- Heads up, I'm not sticking around, I'll be gone by the next day (might be appealing to some men, although that's not what I call 'dating')
- This helmet is on pretty securely. It's for protection.
- If we happen to get intimate, you may see chaffing in weird places.
- My 'perfume' may bring back memories for you of the beach (sunblock)
- Again, if we get intimate, it's not a white shorty wetsuit I'm wearing. Those are my tan lines. For real.
- If I don't get a shower in, I may have dead bugs in elbow and knee pits and other weird things I've collected along the hot ride.
- Huh, no, not a tattoo on my leg, that's just chain grease. Semi-permanent.
- Be aware my quads and calves may be bigger than yours.
- You must think a sports bra is sexy

What do you think? It'll work, right?

Jealousy. And, These Are Our Roads

Before I jump into my topics for today... THANK YOU to Molly and her Mom whom I met at one of the random scenery lookouts in WY and refilled my water bottles even though I knew I'd had enough! Molly attends Yale and is doing an internship over the summer in pediatric nursing (I think) in Jackson WY. They were driving out from CT. Good luck Molly! I wish I grabbed a photo of them.

And, I met Barbara and I forgot the other two names (guy from NH with Barbara) and a guy from Poland. I have their names written down, but not with me here. Barbara is a former PE teacher! YAH! Retired and living in Boston now. She's biking across the US as well.

Today at a rest stop, I met two people who live in NE Portland (where I live) traveling around. Jill gave me a huge hug after we chatted for a bit. She just retired from Emanuel Hospital. At the same rest stop, I met a guy from NJ, but went to Cornell in Ithaca NY, probably 10 years before me. I went to Ithaca College. We talked about the Finger Lakes. He was super proud of what I was doing and I gave him one of my Road to Rhode cards with my website on it. When he went into the bathroom and I finished eating something (I'm always eating), his girlfriend walked over and asked me what I gave her boyfriend. I said one of these cards and gave her one. She handed it back and said, "I'm not thrilled you gave him your information." I was so shocked, I hardly knew what to say. But, I said, "I'm trying to raise $25,000 to eliminate childhood obesity. I gave him my website info about donations." She walked away mumbling, "I don't like that you gave my boyfriend a card." WHAT? Are you that insecure that you think your boyfriend in NEW JERSEY is going to really follow up and contact me? And, he wasn't hitting on me. It bothered me for about an hour while riding. Because I thought about people (especially women) who are so insecure and jealous that they are manipulative enough to make me, the innocent person feel guilty about nothing. What is up with that? Here I am... didn't shower today. Biked 20 miles in the heat. Wearing a helmet and sunglasses. I am covered in sunblock and probably have blobs of it not rubbed in on my face. Wearing biking gloves and bike shorts (so NOT attractive) and she's worried about me giving her boyfriend a card? Anyway, he walked out of the rest stop and yelled, "Good luck and safe travels!" And I waved, thinking... you have a big fight coming your way. What's with her jealousy? Super sad.

Ok- enough of that. Now onto the road topic. I've had to cycle (or not) through construction on roads on this trip. And, it doesn't bother me to stop and chat with the flagger and wait as the one-lane traffic comes through. It happened in MT and now in WY. In some cases, they have to place my bike and trailer (and me) in the lead truck and drive me across the construction (has happened 2X... only a couple miles each time). What is interesting, is that people in their cars get frustrated about having to wait. I hear them because I'm standing there and their windows are down. Or, they get out of their cars to let their children run around and I hear them complain. I understand people are impatient because they want more time in the Tetons or want to see more wildlife. However, chill OUT. Have these people been to other countries or at least seen photos of roads in other countries (ok, probably not)? Our road system is overall amazing. Road construction is an important part of our infrastructure. Not just so that 38 year old fortunate Jess Lawrence can take 3 months mid-career to bicycle across the country. But, roads are essential for our commerce. Our tourism. For people to have access to information, health-care, food. So- sit in your cars and know that your taxes are paying for a very important service. We are extremely fortunate here in the US with our road system. TRUST ME.

Ripped up shoulder outside of Rawlins WY. So, as a cyclist, you have to ride in the road. Or hitchhike through.

On another note, but somewhat related, Wyoming's roads are awful. I was happy to see 12 miles of construction on the shoulder outside of Rawlins WY, however it wasn't a fun time for me. No construction workers (Sunday), and the entire shoulder is ripped up and completely unrideable. And, it's kind of a highway. So- you have your rearview mirror (don't bike tour w/o one!) and you see car and trucks and semi's coming up behind you hoping they will veer into the other lane, OR, they have to slow down enough to wait until other cars coming the other direction pass. Again, an experience my mom and dad will be happy to hear after it happened. I was run off the road two times by cars that were coming up and seemed to be a little too close for my comfort. So, I went into that gravel-y looking stuff in the photo which is like quicksand. NOT FUN. Luckily I had a tailwind and got through the 12 miles in under an hour.

Glad WY is doing that work. However, the roads here, like I said are awful. Not in all cases, but on a lot of this route, the shoulders are tarred (from cracks) and on hot days, when the tar-lines run parallel to your wheels, you don't want your wheels getting caught in those tar-ruts. Today wasn't so bad since my ride wasn't heavily trafficked. However, the cracks across the entire road every 20 feet get annoying. Some are large enough that plants are growing in the shoulder cracks. So- keep working on those roads WY...

I stayed with Lucy and Kevin last night through Warm Showers. They were amazing hosts! Lucy and I went to her community garden plot and harvested our salad and then she brought me to the store so I could load up on some essentials- contact solution, bread, peanut butter...

Kevin and Lucy, my wonderful hosts in Rawlins WY! Just look at all those fruits and veggies!

Lucy made an amazing meal of a large green salad full, beet greens and beets sautéed, and a yummy quinoa with cooked onions, black beans and tomatoes. WOW! And, we had ice cream for desert... Lucy wouldn't even let me buy the ice cream! And, this morning, she made an amazing egg dish with some of the veggies and garlic and added brown rice. YUM! We had great conversations (they read my blog and knew so much about my trip- that made me feel good!) and I felt as if I've known them for years. We even chatted about people who have stayed with them who I've met along the way or have heard of. That was fun! Lucy and Kevin truly made me feel welcome and as I said to them on my way out, I felt like I had a layover there even though I didn't. Just because it was such a relaxing place to be! Thanks L & K!!

And, my ride today was great. 60 miles to Riverside. I stopped at Saratoga Hot Springs (free) and once I got to my campground, I jumped into the river (felt amazing), showered and happy to have internet in the laundry room here. Going to walk across the street and grab some dinner at the local restaurant and crash early in my tent! Oh- and I loved seeing this sign on the road today. YAH!

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Jess@cairnguidance.com

@roadtorhode